Got my new deuce!

[VBsurfer]

Nice truck! I'm curious to see how it turns out for ya. I think dirty fuel is out of the question, but a good way to check for flow and air is to turn the power on so the in tank pump is going, open up the bleeder valve on the secondary filters. Should have a good steady flow. If not, either the primary is plugged or if there's bubbles, there's air in the system. I don't know what the other owner did or didn't do, but I would do all the easiest and cheaper options before moving to the harder and expensive options. Hopefully it's not IP related, but I'm just hoping for the best for ya, lol.

Thanks! Yup I haven't had as much time to work on it since I got it but been working here and there, right now trying to get all the electrical connections setup correctly that were not connected back when the previous owner was working on it. I'll check that bleed valve on the secondary fuel filters, he said he checked and it was good there, I opened up the fuel cut off cover and the "jesus" clip was missing so I got one of those. The alternator cables were off and the ring connectors are broken so I got some crimpers and new cable and ring connectors to replace them. Had to redo the battery terminals as well. Hope to get some time this weekend to work on it but it is going to be blazing hot out here! Thank you for all the suggestions i'll keep posting some pictures as I go through this.

 

[VBsurfer]

I learned the hard lesson again to never assume. I pulled the secondary canisters on the second truck last night, filters were clogged and inside of canisters had thick varnish. SOaking them now in laquer thinner. Just a suggestion if its been sitting or mayby just good practice on new to us trucks: start at tank and drain and flush , pull the filters, lines and injector lines and flush all the way to injectors. I have no idea how long the trucks i have were sitting, possibly 10 years or so but this is what was the condition of all 3 filters on the 109.

He actually bought it from a guy who restores these up here just about 10 minutes away, said he drove it off the lot and about 5 minutes it died on him and was sitting for a little over a year before I bought it. I'll double check everything as well. I have some spin on oil and fuel filter kits to put on so need to get those done as well. I guess I can just replace them with all new stuff since I have it already.

 

[ToddJK]

He actually bought it from a guy who restores these up here just about 10 minutes away, said he drove it off the lot and about 5 minutes it died on him and was sitting for a little over a year before I bought it. I'll double check everything as well. I have some spin on oil and fuel filter kits to put on so need to get those done as well. I guess I can just replace them with all new stuff since I have it already.

Do you know of the guy who worked on it before, as in you are able to contact him? Might be worth figuring out what he touched on that truck just in case he did do some IP work or something.

 

[VBsurfer]

Do you know of the guy who worked on it before, as in you are able to contact him? Might be worth figuring out what he touched on that truck just in case he did do some IP work or something.

That's a good suggestion, yes I sent him a text, he said he swapped out the IP and rebuilt the alternator so that explains a few things. He figured it was the injectors since the IP swap didn't work. I'll have to take a look at those as well once I get a chance.

 

[ToddJK]

That's a good suggestion, yes I sent him a text, he said he swapped out the IP and rebuilt the alternator so that explains a few things. He figured it was the injectors since the IP swap didn't work. I'll have to take a look at those as well once I get a chance.

At least the injectors aren't difficult to see if they are working. Makes me wonder if he swapped the IP out, is the one in the truck he rebuilt and his rebuilt failed, or he swapped the IP prior to testing and therefore just threw in a bad IP pump.

 

[VBsurfer]

At least the injectors aren't difficult to see if they are working. Makes me wonder if he swapped the IP out, is the one in the truck he rebuilt and his rebuilt failed, or he swapped the IP prior to testing and therefore just threw in a bad IP pump.

I asked him specifically if the IP was working prior to the swap (the one he put in there now) and he said yes which I guess is a troubleshooting method if you have a spare IP sitting around. He has a few of these vehicles and seemed like he's telling the truth from what I can gather. He was about to start with the fuel injectors to troubleshoot but having all these vehicles was too much money so he sold the only one that wasn't really running to me. He was going to convert it to a camper conversion. He replaced the head gaskets (as that was where the original owner before him said that was the likely issue, then he put in new fuel filters, then swapped the IP and last was the fuel injectors he said I am just tired of dealing with it. So that is where I am starting, at least if all that holds true, which I think he's being honest.

 

[VBsurfer]

What's the best way to tell which injector it could be just pull them all and look for the spray or one at a time? I'm new to these engines

 

[ToddJK]

Injector tester setup, fittings and initial testing

While working on another repair, I decided to test my injectors and discovered half of them were not performing well, yet the vehicle had been running fairly well. Started easy in warm weather, not great in cold weather. Video showing my fittings setup to work with a cheap ebay tester and...

www.steelsoldiers.com

I found this as far as the actual testing goes.
You can also pull them all out, hook the fuel lines up and have a helper turn the truck over and see if they are popping or not.

 

[ToddJK]

 

[VBsurfer]

So I had a little time to work on my deuce this weekend. Got one of my ground cables made and fixed the one from the battery to the alternator as well. I checked out the diagrams for all the electrical and when I got this none of the cables were hooked up. I wasn't sure if where I put the ground on the alternator is correct or not. Missing the cover as well which I found this one on ebay but it doesn't really match up so I am not sure what I am looking for. There is also a female connector that is off of it as well but not sure where that goes on here either. Still looking through some of the TM's I bought hard copies of to see if I can find it in there, so far no luck. Appreciate any help or guidance, just hate to put something on the wrong connector and fry the rectifier etc..

 

[ToddJK]

The ground looks correct. It's always the one outside of that cap that is usually on there.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Normally, three wires should be connected; the thick ones (battery and ground) and the 14 gauge "exciter" wire (which I recall receives power when the master switch is on to let the regulator know the switch is on). I cannot make it out on your pic but that thin wire does not appear to be connected to an alternator post. If memory serves (and you need to verify this) it connects to the left lug below the top thick wire (i.e. the thin wire runs "in the middle" between the thick ones).

 

[VBsurfer]

Normally, three wires should be connected; the thick ones (battery and ground) and the 14 gauge "exciter" wire (which I recall receives power when the master switch is on to let the regulator know the switch is on). I cannot make it out on your pic but that thin wire does not appear to be connected to an alternator post. If memory serves (and you need to verify this) it connects to the left lug below the top thick wire (i.e. the thin wire runs "in the middle" between the thick ones).

Yes you are correct it isn't connected as of yet, when I bought this none of these wires were on the alternator and none of them had connectors of any kind as they were all broken. Previous owner said this was a rebuilt alternator he put in as the truck wasn't running when I bought it. I ordered some connectors from Big Mike's, and need to crimp on a few connectors. I'll post an update here later this week, just ordered the antifreeze from Napa, here is the one I ordered in case anyone was curious after I looked a few things up on these forums for the correct one. Thank you for all your help! I'll verify the location of that last connection and post a new pic once I got it all setup.

 

[HDN]

What's the make and model of your alternator? It looks like what I found here in the Parts TM but... Backwards? And missing screw holes for the terminal cover.



Unfortunately there's no NSN reference for the terminal cover on that alternator.

 

[VBsurfer]

What's the make and model of your alternator? It looks like what I found here in the Parts TM but... Backwards? And missing screw holes for the terminal cover.

View attachment 869794

Unfortunately there's no NSN reference for the terminal cover on that alternator.

I'll take a look and see who made it and the model tomorrow and get back with you. Thanks for the diagram that helps, it looks like some kind of bracket that goes over the positive terminal, I don't have that part so i'll have to find something to keep that cable in place. It probably doesn't have an NSN since it is manufacturer specific probably.

 

[HDN]

It probably doesn't have an NSN since it is manufacturer specific probably.

Take a look in the TM I have attached. I think your alternator is on PDF page 7 of 18. There's a parts list with NSNs at the end of the manual too. Unfortunately the image quality isn't that great on my copy so you might have to try a few NSNs to find what you're looking for. If all else fails, take some measurements and get one 3D printed or something else.

 

[ToddJK]

If you cant find a cover, could always put a form of permatex or something similar that's not too hard to get off. Mine is missing that cover as well and it has some type of goop on it, don't know what it is, been like that since I got it but so far, it's been holding up, even in a fire, lol.

 

[HDN]

If you cant find a cover, could always put a form of permatex or something similar that's not too hard to get off. Mine is missing that cover as well and it has some type of goop on it, don't know what it is, been like that since I got it but so far, it's been holding up, even in a fire, lol.

What sucks about using electric goop or whatever it is is that you have to fight with cleaning it out if you need to pull the terminal block apart. But YMMV - I'm just not a fan of anything like that

@VBsurfer if you can't find a cover or figure something else out, PM me and we can talk about printing one for you.

 

[ToddJK]

What sucks about using electric goop or whatever it is is that you have to fight with cleaning it out if you need to pull the terminal block apart. But YMMV - I'm just not a fan of anything like that

@VBsurfer if you can't find a cover or figure something else out, PM me and we can talk about printing one for you.

Yeah, the cleaning part will suck. I don't like it either, but I haven't had to take it apart yet, luckily.

 

[Mullaney]

If you cant find a cover, could always put a form of permatex or something similar that's not too hard to get off. Mine is missing that cover as well and it has some type of goop on it, don't know what it is, been like that since I got it but so far, it's been holding up, even in a fire, lol.

.
The underside of Marine Corps 5-Tons and the SeaBees especially have the entire bottom of their trucks sprayed with something that looks and feels like silicon. I don't know for sure what it is, but everything - axles, transmissions, bottom of the motor and half way up the sides has that coating. Seems to work for them in salt water conditions.

Of course, if @HDN would print you something with his 3D printer, that would be easier if you need repairs later...