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Happy day, M1123 arrived today, question on fuel line

blutow

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Austin, TX
I've been waiting on my EUC since september, but finally have my M1123 home today. The condition exceeded expectations so far. 32 miles on the odometer and I'm thinking that's correct, there is no wear on anyting (other then age/sun deterioration. This is my first time even driving a HMMWV, pretty excited driving it off the trailer. Plans for the truck are 4 man conversion with soft top and keep it pretty much all original. I want to go through it mechanically, but no plans to repaint it or add any creature comforts.

I drained the fuel and it was bright red (I assume a JP type fuel?) and very clean, so that was a huge relief. I was originally planning to crack the tank open and clean it, but I was expecting the typical diesel slime and junk and I guess this fuel doesn't do that. It runs really well (for now). I understand these old injection pumps sometimes work for a bit and then quit. Fingers crossed on that and I put some diesel kleene treatment in also. I'm seeing lots of little stuff that needs attention, but no big surprises yet. The biggist issue I have so far is a slow leak on a fitting right in front of the fan (I think it's transmission fluid). It looks like it will be a pain in the butt to get to. I also had a fuel leak (injector return line I think) that I did a temporary fix on. Those lines have a cloth covering on them. Can I just replace it with any diesel-rated hose or can I get that cloth covered stuff somewhere? I figure I'll replace all of them (and probably do all the hoses in the fuel system), so would prefer to get the original style hose if it's available. PIc below of the line I replaced with the cloth covered hose. Thanks for the help, I'm sure this is the first of many dumb questions I'll have.

1644455641333.jpeg

PIc of the truck arriving today
1644455765781.jpeg
 

TNDRIVER

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I've been waiting on my EUC since september, but finally have my M1123 home today. The condition exceeded expectations so far. 32 miles on the odometer and I'm thinking that's correct, there is no wear on anyting (other then age/sun deterioration. This is my first time even driving a HMMWV, pretty excited driving it off the trailer. Plans for the truck are 4 man conversion with soft top and keep it pretty much all original. I want to go through it mechanically, but no plans to repaint it or add any creature comforts.

I drained the fuel and it was bright red (I assume a JP type fuel?) and very clean, so that was a huge relief. I was originally planning to crack the tank open and clean it, but I was expecting the typical diesel slime and junk and I guess this fuel doesn't do that. It runs really well (for now). I understand these old injection pumps sometimes work for a bit and then quit. Fingers crossed on that and I put some diesel kleene treatment in also. I'm seeing lots of little stuff that needs attention, but no big surprises yet. The biggist issue I have so far is a slow leak on a fitting right in front of the fan (I think it's transmission fluid). It looks like it will be a pain in the butt to get to. I also had a fuel leak (injector return line I think) that I did a temporary fix on. Those lines have a cloth covering on them. Can I just replace it with any diesel-rated hose or can I get that cloth covered stuff somewhere? I figure I'll replace all of them (and probably do all the hoses in the fuel system), so would prefer to get the original style hose if it's available. PIc below of the line I replaced with the cloth covered hose. Thanks for the help, I'm sure this is the first of many dumb questions I'll have.

View attachment 858535

PIc of the truck arriving today
View attachment 858536
Red diesel is off road fuel, no taxes..... just replaced the oring and dust seal in the front of my fan clutch........ try tightening the 1/2 nut on the front if you can get an arm in..... an extra elbow helps....... and it will not turn much, just snug it up and see if that helps. Pull the fuel filter canister of the fire wall and have a look inside before you pass on the tank cleaning. Cali truck may be OK....GA may need attention. Good looking truck ! Best of luck with it.... you own tools ...right??? Have fun.
 

blutow

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Austin, TX
Red diesel is off road fuel, no taxes..... just replaced the oring and dust seal in the front of my fan clutch........ try tightening the 1/2 nut on the front if you can get an arm in..... an extra elbow helps....... and it will not turn much, just snug it up and see if that helps. Pull the fuel filter canister of the fire wall and have a look inside before you pass on the tank cleaning. Cali truck may be OK....GA may need attention. Good looking truck ! Best of luck with it.... you own tools ...right??? Have fun.
Thanks. Yeah, I've got some tools. I'll check out the fuel filter when I change it for sure and go from there. It's a CA truck, filled with moon dust. The gasket for the tank is pretty cheap, so I might just crack it open to take a look (assume that little panel in the bed provides access?). I'll try to get a wrench up on that fitting, need to figure out how to get a little closer. I couldn't reach it from a creeper and I don't think there is a path from the top, right?

Here is a pick of the leaking fitting, it's leaking from the top.

1644464690775.png
 

Action

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You wont get fuel tank open through that little hole in the bed. That is to access the level sender and metal lines.
You will have to drop the tank if you want to replace the big gasket. Just dont fill all the way up.
I tried the “no clamp” return lines once. They were brittle a year later and broke when i touched them. I went back to AMG or GM hoses.
 

Milcommoguy

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Thanks. I also found a kit with just the hose and plugs without the little clamps.

I have had a little trouble with that hose. Looked good, sounded good, no PITA clips, German made, etc. What could go wrong?

Later on develops a little slit at the injector barb and leaks. That's on two engines rebuilt. Tight fitting barb to injector housing to get it seated. Or the weave feather back and looks like a mess.. Never had issue with the GM factory stuff. Factory GM clip is the way to go too, IMO. Get the clips on right, there's NO pulling it off without ripping the GM hose.

Stay away from the cheap Doorman clips if using the small hose. No spring action. haha

Buy the good stuff or be hosed, CAMO
 

T9000

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Thanks. I also found a kit with just the hose and plugs without the little clamps.

Congratulations!!! I remember the feeling when I finally got mine…awesome day :) I have a whole thread with some of the things I ran thru and like many said the fuel lines are perhaps one of the best return on your efforts to replace. The original fuel hose is GoodYear rated 30R7 (or at least on my truck it was) which is like the baseline for diesel, and you can get amazing J30R14T2 at O’Rileys which is beyond 30R9 and resists many types of diesel, bio-diesel, has a peak temp of 150C and continuous operating pressure up to 225psi…it will last as long as the truck…install it once and forget it :) The store guys don’t know the difference, just check their web site and give them the Barricade part number. They have it in both 1/4” for return and 3/8”.

Enjoy that beauty!
 
Last edited:

AAVP7

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Dortmund, Germany
I have had a little trouble with that hose. Looked good, sounded good, no PITA clips, German made, etc. What could go wrong?
Being a german engineer, I have to defend our honor... :LOL: I don´t think that tubing from Amazon was really german-made. The german in the advert sounds very weird, like an automatic translation from Chinese... :ROFLMAO: Probably, China is trying to shake the reputation of german products by selling cheap crap under false flag. Now, back to topic...:cool:
 

blutow

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63
Location
Austin, TX
You wont get fuel tank open through that little hole in the bed. That is to access the level sender and metal lines.
You will have to drop the tank if you want to replace the big gasket. Just dont fill all the way up.
I tried the “no clamp” return lines once. They were brittle a year later and broke when i touched them. I went back to AMG or GM hoses.
I have had a little trouble with that hose. Looked good, sounded good, no PITA clips, German made, etc. What could go wrong?

Later on develops a little slit at the injector barb and leaks. That's on two engines rebuilt. Tight fitting barb to injector housing to get it seated. Or the weave feather back and looks like a mess.. Never had issue with the GM factory stuff. Factory GM clip is the way to go too, IMO. Get the clips on right, there's NO pulling it off without ripping the GM hose.

Stay away from the cheap Doorman clips if using the small hose. No spring action. haha

Buy the good stuff or be hosed, CAMO
Thanks for the feedback on the hose kit, I didn't realize this was any more than just buying some quality hose and cutting it to length. Those hoses on my truck don't have the litle clips, but I'm not sure that means anything (especially when one was leaking). I'm all for using the right parts and doing it once.

Is this the proper kit from hummerpartsguy (link below) or is this something to get from a GM dealer and just point to any 6.5 diesel?

 

blutow

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Location
Austin, TX
Congratulations!!! I remember the feeling when I finally got mine…awesome day :) I have a whole thread with some of the things I ran thru and like many said the fuel lines are perhaps one of the best return on your efforts to replace. The original fuel hose is GoodYear rated 30R7 (or at least on my truck it was) which is like the baseline for diesel, and you can get amazing J30R14T2 at O’Rileys which is beyond 30R9 and resists many types of diesel, bio-diesel, has a peak temp of 150C and continuous operating pressure up to 225psi…it will last as long as the truck…install it once and forget it :) The store guys don’t know the difference, just check their web site and give them the Barricade part number. They have it in both 1/4” for return and 3/8”.

Enjoy that beauty!
Thanks. I'll definitely get some of that hose and just replace all the fuel system rubber. It's hard to tell the condition for most of the hose, a lot of it has a very heavy coat of black paint (I assume from the 2009 refurb) and it's hard to tell the paint cracking vs. hose issues when squeezing it.
 

Milcommoguy

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Can't t say good or bad on the HumV sales guys. Guess a phone call and ask or take the leap. It's not a big deal till it leaks on the trail. When it leaks... THAT's can be a BIG deal. I would suggest on these New / OLD rigs is to get familiar with the "systems" and the fuel is a good place to start.

PMCS is the word. Hasn't seen one in ten plus years. Think like diesel fuel and follow it from the filler cap to where it goes into the injectors and in this case back around to the tank.

PMCS is not a pointing process. Follow the flow charts (pun1) Got to get in there all touchy - feely. HumV's like that lol. Many time it's the cheap parts that can fail in this system. At the end of the line always something expensive. (pun 2)

It's a little money now, time is cheap ( just spent 22K a hobby?) possibly saving further problems, headaches. & more $ $$ $$$

If one as been following these threads... Waiting, waiting and MORE waiting...for the EUC, one should pick up on a boat load of fuel issue. Just got it now, can't wait to run it is IMO a bit (have no words) _____________.

Anyone can drive one for the 22K (for the drivers training haha) if it runs right off the lot. (how far will it go ??) The real training takes place in the driveway. Get your one man pit crew jump suit on and be ready to get a little dirt under the nails and even rolling around and getting stinky to really make it GO. I been thrown out of the house with HumV stink a time or two. Rig runs really nice now.

Lonely and abandoned in the Mojave Desert or way down South is where the gremlins play. (could be a song. Played over and over on station SS)

Hidden under that paint might just be a once new hose or a gremlin. Don't bypass the wiring (not another) and other parts dipped in paint, just saying.

A new HumV, without the new car smell. Diesel, gear oil, grease, antifreeze are the new smells one has to work with and a gremlin or two.

How many little pine trees does it take to make it new again? CAMO


Free bonus guide if you made it this far. See fuel section 3 >> https://midwestmilitaryequipment.com/content/amgtm998a1.pdf

What does the acronym PMCS stand for? Or what the dealer / sales office left off the sticker price of your ole HumV.

(1) Performance observation is the foundation of the Army maintenance program and is the basis of the preventive maintenance checks and services known as PMCS that are required by all equipment TMs in the before, during, and after operation checks. HooAH

Story time with CAMO. Brought to you by "DUFF" beer, Super Bowl Bean Dip and Breeze air freshener.
 
Last edited:

TNDRIVER

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Cleveland,TN
Thanks. Yeah, I've got some tools. I'll check out the fuel filter when I change it for sure and go from there. It's a CA truck, filled with moon dust. The gasket for the tank is pretty cheap, so I might just crack it open to take a look (assume that little panel in the bed provides access?). I'll try to get a wrench up on that fitting, need to figure out how to get a little closer. I couldn't reach it from a creeper and I don't think there is a path from the top, right?

Here is a pick of the leaking fitting, it's leaking from the top.

View attachment 858552
You are describing this as leaking from the top, do you mean the front.... there is a bolt that holds the fitting on the front of the fan hub. I am surprised they all don't leak here. There is a bolt and D shaped washer that holds it on. I believe it has pressure on the back side of the bolt but no apparent seal. May be some one that has disassembled one of these completely can chime in here. Left hand and arm thru the fan about the 7 oclock position as viewed from the back side. It may be metric but 1/2 fits the nut. Also you can pull the fuel sender out the top access cover and eyeball a good portion of the tank from there. May your disposable income adventures begin!
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Brentwood, Calif
I've been waiting on my EUC since september, but finally have my M1123 home today. The condition exceeded expectations so far. 32 miles on the odometer and I'm thinking that's correct, there is no wear on anyting (other then age/sun deterioration. This is my first time even driving a HMMWV, pretty excited driving it off the trailer. Plans for the truck are 4 man conversion with soft top and keep it pretty much all original. I want to go through it mechanically, but no plans to repaint it or add any creature comforts.

I drained the fuel and it was bright red (I assume a JP type fuel?) and very clean, so that was a huge relief. I was originally planning to crack the tank open and clean it, but I was expecting the typical diesel slime and junk and I guess this fuel doesn't do that. It runs really well (for now). I understand these old injection pumps sometimes work for a bit and then quit. Fingers crossed on that and I put some diesel kleene treatment in also. I'm seeing lots of little stuff that needs attention, but no big surprises yet. The biggist issue I have so far is a slow leak on a fitting right in front of the fan (I think it's transmission fluid). It looks like it will be a pain in the butt to get to. I also had a fuel leak (injector return line I think) that I did a temporary fix on. Those lines have a cloth covering on them. Can I just replace it with any diesel-rated hose or can I get that cloth covered stuff somewhere? I figure I'll replace all of them (and probably do all the hoses in the fuel system), so would prefer to get the original style hose if it's available. PIc below of the line I replaced with the cloth covered hose. Thanks for the help, I'm sure this is the first of many dumb questions I'll have.

View attachment 858535

PIc of the truck arriving today
those are injecto drain back lines, you will never get the OEM hos
Thanks. I'll definitely get some of that hose and just replace all the fuel system rubber. It's hard to tell the condition for most of the hose, a lot of it has a very heavy coat of black paint (I assume from the 2009 refurb) and it's hard to tell the paint cracking vs. hose issues when squeezing it.
just buy a quality 3.5mm diesel rated drain back line, I buy it in 100ft rolls for the shop.
Diesel rated has a yellow stripe on the braided covering.
Almost every truck from auction needs new lines when they arrive into the shop, most of the time the
hose used during reset was a non-fuel rated vacuum hose.
 

blutow

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Austin, TX
You are describing this as leaking from the top, do you mean the front.... there is a bolt that holds the fitting on the front of the fan hub. I am surprised they all don't leak here. There is a bolt and D shaped washer that holds it on. I believe it has pressure on the back side of the bolt but no apparent seal. May be some one that has disassembled one of these completely can chime in here. Left hand and arm thru the fan about the 7 oclock position as viewed from the back side. It may be metric but 1/2 fits the nut.
It's leaking at the bottom most fitting in the picture below (which is the highest fitting when you are under the truck). You can see in the pic where it transitions from dusty hose to wet hose, that's the connection point that is leaking. I assume it's just 2 wrenches and snug it up, just need to get dirty and give it a try.

We are heading out on vacation Saturday AM, so unfortunately I don't have much time to play until I get back. I'll probably be ordering a bunch of parts while on vacation. I was happy to get the fuel drained and oil changed and I also re-routed the serpentine belt that was mis-routed (was called out in the auction inspection). Weird thing for them to catch with all the issues you might point out (no mention of leaks in their inspection). They also said the parking brake was weak and the heater didn't work, but they both work perfect.

1644511113696.png
 

blutow

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Location
Austin, TX
I would suggest on these New / OLD rigs is to get familiar with the "systems" and the fuel is a good place to start.
Thanks, good post. Yeah, I don't have a lot of time for a big project right now, but I'm also not in a hurry and enjoy the tinkering. I was originally thinking of finding one that's already been gone through or paying someone to knock out the basics, but I realized that I'd be missing out on all the fun of figuring out all the odd systems. From what I see, none of the systems seem very complex, but there is a lot going on for a really basic vehicle.
 

TNDRIVER

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It's leaking at the bottom most fitting in the picture below (which is the highest fitting when you are under the truck). You can see in the pic where it transitions from dusty hose to wet hose, that's the connection point that is leaking. I assume it's just 2 wrenches and snug it up, just need to get dirty and give it a try.

We are heading out on vacation Saturday AM, so unfortunately I don't have much time to play until I get back. I'll probably be ordering a bunch of parts while on vacation. I was happy to get the fuel drained and oil changed and I also re-routed the serpentine belt that was mis-routed (was called out in the auction inspection). Weird thing for them to catch with all the issues you might point out (no mention of leaks in their inspection). They also said the parking brake was weak and the heater didn't work, but they both work perfect.

View attachment 858569
The larger round end of the hose is a hydraulic disconnect fitting. Remove, clean, hope....
 

blutow

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Austin, TX
The larger round end of the hose is a hydraulic disconnect fitting. Remove, clean, hope....
I'm pretty sure it's leaking where that fitting is attached to the hose via threaded connection, not the quick connect. At least that's my hope. You can see that it's wet above the quick connect where the threaded connection is and it's running down over the quick connect. Kind of confusing with the pic, the hose at the bottom is the highest point.
 

Coug

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Those quick disconnects are notorious for leaking at the connection.
It's HMMWV specific so your local hydraulics shop is unlikely to have it.

I didn't want to wait so I replaced it with standard hydraulic fittings on both parts. Could do it though the fan blades, but a total pain in the butt and somewhat painful, but no bleeding involved.
 

blutow

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Location
Austin, TX
Those quick disconnects are notorious for leaking at the connection.
It's HMMWV specific so your local hydraulics shop is unlikely to have it.

I didn't want to wait so I replaced it with standard hydraulic fittings on both parts. Could do it though the fan blades, but a total pain in the butt and somewhat painful, but no bleeding involved.
I was ordering a bunch of other stuff today, so I went ahead and ordered the quick connect fittings. Even though it looks like it's leaking from above the quick connect point, I think it might just be creeping up there more than flowing down. With the fan pushing air and flinging stuff everywhere, there's no telling. It should be a fun fix.

Besides the 2 leaks, the only other issues I've found on the truck so far is the window washer pump and the seat belts. I need to confirm whether it's the pump switch or the motor, but I think it's the motor because I can hear the wiper motor strain just slightly when I hit the washer button. The seat belts won't unlock, I'll get some new ones if I can't work them loose.

I also need to do something with the batteries. They put 2 brand new "deka" batteries in the truck and they certainly work, but they don't fit in the trays properly. I hate to trash 2 new batteries, but I also don't like the idea of poor mounting. I have the original hold down bracket, but none of the hardware (J-hooks?) to clamp the bracket down. I had already budgeted for new tires and batteries, so I might just bite the bullet and get the proper batteries.
 
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