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Has anyone installed a cooling system upgrade?

deank

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I have been researching a cooling system upgrade by paradox by design. Has anyone here used it? Would you recommend it? My M1031 only has 16 k miles and I want to make it last as long as I can.
Thanks for any feedback!

Dean
 

antennaclimber

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I have one of the kits on my M1008. Some people think it's not needed and others think it would be a good idea. My thought it's worth a try and would only be beneficial given the history of these engines with blocks and or heads failing.

I do not have any data as to it being better or worse than the stock system. The truck has been driven across the USA two and a half times without any issues.
The radiator is a aluminum and plastic unit, I have driven it thru some extreme heat conditions towing a M101A2 trailer and so far, no issues.
 

2INSANE

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Belgrade, Montana
My personal testing on running 6.2 and 6.5 motors on an engine stand shows that they all get hot in the rear of the motor. I recently installed the PBD kit on a customers motor and can confirm that the kit does balance the temperatures better on the motor. I would say this kit is now a MUST HAVE UPGRADE for any 6.2 and 6.5 motor. Here are pictures.
 

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ballencd

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I agree its a good idea but that's a pretty pricey modification. Seems you could do it with $80-100 in parts DIY style. Is that a Hummer crossover in the pictures?
 

2INSANE

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I agree its a good idea but that's a pretty pricey modification. Seems you could do it with $80-100 in parts DIY style. Is that a Hummer crossover in the pictures?
No it is a coolant crossover from a 93 GMC 1ton I parted out. Pictured is a hummer coolant crossover.

2Insane, how did you determine your motors were running hot in the rear? Did you take measurements?
I used a laser thermometer gun while the motors were running on an engine stand. Temperatures averaged 10-20 degrees hotter in the rear of the heads or around cylinders 7-8. That is why the piston clearance for cylinders 7-8 are meant to be wider. See pic.

Now imagine the motor up against the firewall building even more heat. The temp sensor is more toward the cooler side of the motor so if your gauge says 200 degrees, it will actually be 210-220 in the rear. Maybe more! Now imagine your pulling a big hill and your gauge says you are overheating at 220-240 degrees… Your actual temperature in the rear will be 230-260 Degrees! Now think of the history of the 6.2 and 6.5 cracking head problems over the years… Here is the reason!

Edit: No I am not getting sponsored or paid by paradoxbydesign to say these things. I am a normal bloke just like you that loves these old squares and motors!
 

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