Heated fuel tank project, biodiesel, WVO..

[cranetruck]

Here is a sequence of images showing the progress of this project. Ideally aluminum should be used instead of copper, but it wasn't as easily available.
This tank will be used as a main fuel tank and a smaller one (10 gallons) will be used for starting and shutting down on petro diesel in cold weather.

______________
Bjorn
MVPA 19212

1968 M49A2C modified. 1972 HIAB 765A crane and 1960 M756 pipeline truck bed.
11.00-20 NDCC singles.
M103A3 trailer.

"Some things cannot be made better, just differently"

CURRENTLY WORKING ON: Vehicle wiring, adding relays for headlights and turn signals.
Adding small fuel tank (starting and shutting down in cold weather) and installing heating coil in main tank for biodiesel/cooking oil.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Pretty darned cool. So Bjorn, does this mean you might be running SVO instead of bio?

 

[cranetruck]

Actually, heating bio is not a bad thing in the winter or at any temp below say, 40 deg F.
But yes, with the heater it will be possible to run on straight cooking oil as well as biodiesel.

I'm a little concerned about too much cooling for the engine and will probably install electric fan(s), which can be switched on and off
as needed. The system checked out just fine yeterday when the temp was about 75, but I'm sure it will take longer to get the engine warmed up on any winter day.

I like options.

Bjorn

 

[Wyattearp]

Bjorn you done it again, I take it that is the heating line from the heater and your running hot coolant through the coil in the tank, correct.. sorry i haven't chatted lately been busy, i need to get down there and see you again, will real soon.

 

[cranetruck]

James, there is more on this in the "Alternate fuel" section, but there is some kind of bug to deal with, may be okay if you go directly to page 5, though.

The copper coil is only in the center portion of the tank (basically around the pump), no access to the outside baffled sections. Without agitation, the temp of the fuel was 100 F in the center and 90 F as measured via the filler opening, so in time it will all get hot.
The connections are made via tee's where the hot water personnel heater is connected.

You are welcome to stop by at any time, just give me a little notice...

Bjorn

 

[Wyattearp]

will sure do it Bjorn, we are starting to harvest our tobacco crop so it will be after that. Hmmm that is one way to keep your fuel from gelling on you, you can do so much more with simple vehicles than you can what we have now on the roads.

 

[cranetruck]

Removed the old fuel tank from the deuce the other day. Here are some observations, which comes from using unwashed biodiesel (about 100% for the last couple of months or so):
1) Copper fuel lines have a very bright, etched finish on the inside.
2) Level sending unit float is nice and shiny on the part that contacts the fuel, dull oxidized brass on top.
3) Fuel pump is very clean and shiny, no problem with the hose that connects the pump itself to the fitting above.
4) Level sending unit gasket turning mushy. Must be rubber.
5) Paint where spilled biodiesel has been trapped peeling a la DOT 3 brake fluid.

Moved the new fuel tank into position and will attach it when it stops raining. I'll be using a homemade non-rubber gasket for the level sending unit and other fittings (coolant heater bulkhead fittings and thermocouple probe feed-through).


Bjorn

PS. Still no easy way to attach images. No browse button...

 

[rmgill]

Bjorn, I think you need to wash your biodiesel. I think the bits of methanol and lye are going to be a long term issue.

 

[cranetruck]

I agree with you 100% Ryan. Working on it as we speak.

The heated fuel tank with the addition of a smaller tank for dino for warming up and shutting down will also give
me the option of running on filtered veggie oil alone.

More to come.

Bjorn

 

[rdixiemiller]

Bjorn
Get a transmission cooler from a junkyard and use it in the tank. That will give you the heat transfer you need, and should be cheap enough. Some trucks have a nice long unit that would drop right in.

I am going to wash my bio, what you are seeing is the caustic attacking the brass and copper. Alkalies are tough on yellow metals.
You may want to insulate your fuel lines as well.

 

[cranetruck]

Robert,
The copper coil is already installed and the new tank is ready to be bolted in. I waiting for a thermocouple that I "won"
on ebay. It will have to be installed before I put the fuel pump back in. The opening for the FP is very handy for reaching inside.

The copper coil will be plenty good, measured 140 some degrees after 1/2 hour. With the washed bio, I'm not concerned about the compatibility problems, probably very long term anyway.

Measured the fuel return flow the other day. It was surprisingly high, at 2 quarts/minute at idle when the engine burns about 3/4 gallons/hour. Some is used for cooling the injectors I guess. The temperature of the fuel upon return to the tank was about 115 F. Which will also help heat the fuel.
The amber color of the fuel is biodiesel (unwashed).

Thinking about going 100% veggie oil now...

Bjorn

 

[rmgill]

Bjorn, did you crumple your fuel tank?

 

[Desert Rat]

Yeah, OUCH!!!!

 

[cranetruck]

That's the old fuel tank, backed into a log several years ago.
The heating coil is in another tank (see previous posts).

Bjorn

 

[Desert Rat]

Ah ha! Now I get it.

 

[rdixiemiller]

I thought about WVO, but I think I will go through the effort to make biodiesel.
Bjorn, how cold does it have to be for you to use your flame heater?

 

[cranetruck]

I'd say about 10 to 0 F. With fully charged batteries my deuce will start at 10 F.

About biodiesel. It's the washing part that's time consuming and then "drying" to make sure no water is left.
I'm washing a 20-gallon batch right now and it's still "muddy" after two days. A centrifuge could probably work well.

Unwashed bio is easy to make and that's what I have been using, but I'm starting to think about some of the side effects, corrosion and the dangers of free methanol in the tank (2%). Methanol boils at 148 deg F.

Bjorn

 

[Recovry4x4]

I'm wondering about the temps of SVO. Since its so darned hot here all the time I'm considering what percentage I can run without having 2 tanks. If I could get to 50% most of the time, I wouldn't even bother with bio. Also considering running the stuff in my 6.5 powered pickup. Also for you guys in cooler climates, when the waste SVO gets cooler does the viscosity remain consistent throughout the whole batch of does the bottom thicken up quicker? I was thinking about a another tank option as well. Was considering opening up a tank and sealing off one baffle and adding a pickup there and using that as the dino tank and heating the remaining section of the tank for SVO. Gotta do something, diesel here was $3.49 the other day.

 

[cranetruck]

Sealing off a baffle is damned near brilliant, Kenny! I may just do that. Making a custom tank for diesel would cost me a bit.
I installed two check valves in the fuel lines yesterday and will use the pumps selectively to run on either diesel or oil/bio.

BTW, did you measure any temps yeterday?

Bjorn

 

[cranetruck]

Of course, I have a second fuel pump and filler neck from the old tank.

Bjorn