HMMWV injector pump bad or??

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NDT

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Whole front of the motor for an IP replace? Nope, read the manual. IP rebuild should run you around $500. If diesel don't come out the injector lines with the solenoid pulled in and fuel in and out, you can be sure the IP is a goner. Lots of plastic parts inside that don't last forever.
 

RichDane

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Just cuz it’s clicking, does not mean the governor is allowing fuel to flow.
take the top of the pump off and see how easy it is too actuate the lever, should be super easy to move with your pinky finger and it should spring back easily, I’ve had them literally frozen and still get some fuel out the drain on top for the fuel return.
In my last ditch effort, I am going to remove the top of my IP off my old motor and swap them out just to see if that will make a difference.....I appreciate the suggestion.....I actually had to walk away for a few days just to keep my sanity.......I started to consider searching for those AP rounds I have laying around here somewhere (Kidding)
 

RichDane

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Whole front of the motor for an IP replace? Nope, read the manual. IP rebuild should run you around $500. If diesel don't come out the injector lines with the solenoid pulled in and fuel in and out, you can be sure the IP is a goner. Lots of plastic parts inside that don't last forever.
You don't happen to have the TM on that removal and install, I am having trouble finding it....Thanks,
 

RichDane

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This is not the TM's. Read it through, use the index to search out the problem. When stuff happens, you'll be ahead of the pack.

It's an easy read. Consider it you owners manual that didn't come in the glove box?? And it's free. > https://hummerhuren.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/hmmwv_test-diagnostics.pdf

For all the other nuts and bolts, a shelf of TM's, and some band-aids. CAMO
Yes, this is always helpful and I will always look at this as coming from my Glove compartment from here on out....:) I was looking for the step by step procedure for injection Pump removal from an A2 6.5 N/A motor which I have installed into my M998...I just can't seem to find the TM on this.....
 

NormB

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This might help:

"Chevy GMC 6.2L 6.5L Diesel Engine Fuel System Diagnosis Service Manual Nov. 1992"

I got it from a guy on the evil auction site, I've scanned it as a PDF but it's YUGE, about 2 mB and I've tried uploading it to the new manuals section several times without success.

Shoot me your email via PM and I'll send a copy to you. Might help.
 

Wire Fox

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Gentlemen, that TM you're searching for is right here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101807-6-5-tm-s

This one's always tricky to remember because it's not a HMMWV TM per se, it's a TM specifically for the engine. There's a section that walks you through the tear-down of the engine into sub-assemblies (The air intake will be coming off. The hard fuel lines will be coming off. The air manifold willbe coming off. The water pump is optional.) I'd recommend spinning the engine manually with a breaker bar until each bolt comes into view for removal (best done with a buddy). If you like having all the room in the world, tear open the front of the engine to have the water pump out and just knock out all three bolts at once. It will tell you exactly what needs to come off in what order. When that's done, there's a section in a later chapter that covers full tear-down of the pump if you were interested in that.

Honestly, I'd just ship it off. A leaky advance servo assembly is something you can replace seals on and fix (without removing the pump, actually!), but a non-operable pump really isn't something you can fix without the proper service equipment. I tried and failed at that one. :(
 

RichDane

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I took this off the injector manufacturers site......Can anyone shed light on item #2 Shut off linkage in stop position?????

Fairly new A2 motor, new wiring harness.....fuel all the way to the injector....nothing to injectors themselves....DONT want to pull the pump but running out of things to check.....everything else checks out.....


No Start, no fuel delivery to Injectors1. Electric Shut off solenoid failed or not getting power2. Shut off linkage in stop position.3. Check for insufficient fuel supply, replace fuel filter. If equipped with a fuelsupply pump check for minimum of 2-3 psi fuel supply pump pressure.4. Water contamination can cause the metering valve to stick in the shut offposition or the pumping plungers to stick.5. Head and rotor in pump seized, this will usually break the pump driveshaft, except on DB4 and DM pumps which will break at the rotor. Thiswould be a catastrophic failure and the cause must be determined prior toinstalling a rebuilt or repaired pump on the engine or it could seize again.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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These pumps fail due to bad fuel from sitting, I replace a pump a month from auction trucks.
You have to pull the pump and see if the shaft is even in one piece anymore.
its common for the shaft to shear internally, and you will get the exact symptoms you have.
stanadyne used a very thin diameter shaft on this pump and shearing is very common.
once the pump is removed, rotate the shaft by hand, you should hear the cams and rollers inside, when the shaft shears,
It just spins freely.
 

AUS HMMWV

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Perth Western Australia
These pumps fail due to bad fuel from sitting, I replace a pump a month from auction trucks.
You have to pull the pump and see if the shaft is even in one piece anymore.
its common for the shaft to shear internally, and you will get the exact symptoms you have.
stanadyne used a very thin diameter shaft on this pump and shearing is very common.
once the pump is removed, rotate the shaft by hand, you should hear the cams and rollers inside, when the shaft shears,
It just spins freely.
Had 2 x 6.2 engines with sticky injection pump here in Australia, wouldn't start with no fuel delivery from the IP.
Still had the lovely army fuel from the US in them, smelt like turps.
Talked to our local fuel injection guy and he commented that most likely the plungers were stuck in the pump and would not return to load fuel.
Asked about the transfer pressure and was told it should be about 120 psi max.
We made a manifold and filled it with fresh diesel and hooked it to the inlet to the fuel filter.
Put air pressure on the manifold about 30 psi and bled clean fuel into the filter.
Raised the pressure to 120 psi and cranked the motor.
It started after about 10 seconds cranking and then stopped.
Did this a few more times and it would idle a bit rough.
Hooked up the fuel lines after draining the tank and refilling with fresh diesel.
Started up ok and ran truck around for 30 minutes and running great.
Bit of a bush fix but may help others as this seems a common problem.
Attached a couple photos of the manifold used, parts came from the local hose and fitting shop.
 

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