HMMWV Starter

[gcbennet]

I've got a pair of new batteries to put in and i'm just waiting for the new S3 at this point. Out of curiosity how are the curcuit breakers reset?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I've got a pair of new batteries to put in and i'm just waiting for the new S3 at this point. Out of curiosity how are the curcuit breakers reset?

i re-read my post...my IPad took out "not". The breakers cannot be reset, they rested upon removing any sort of short or overload.

 

[gcbennet]

What I get from what you're saying about the breakers is that they're self-setting? I'll pull and inspect them and do a continuity test either way because there's not much left to check at this point. An answer to a previous question- I have no lights. No power whatsoever with batteries hooked up. Every hard connection I can find is clean and tight and I'll test the serviceability of the breakers to either rule them out or confirm that they're open, thus responsible for this ongoing issue.

Now for the S3. I have a new Nartron on the way to replace the KDS that failed. Out of curiosity is one manufacturer seen as having a higher failure history, or are they both pretty much on the same level?

 

[gcbennet]

Ok, so I installed the new batteries an did some voltage tests to hopefully locate the open circuit. 24.7v at the pos stud on both sides of the bulkhead as well as both ends of the shunt and neg stud. It would appear that the juice from the batteries stops at the starter. For fun I also took out the two breakers behind the cluster and both passed for continuity. While I had the guts of the dash all hanging out I took the opportunity to rebuild the gauge cluster and inspect all of the wires and plugs, as well as compare their placement to the TM. I did find a couple of wrong connections as well as yet another wire found pigtailed and wrapped in electrical tape- which has since dried up and disintegrated. This is literally the third wire I've found like this behind my dash. I would suggest to everyone that if you haven't already, go through all of your wiring and search for bad repairs done by previous owners and repair them properly. All that behind me now, I'm dreading the next step which is probably unhooking and dropping the starter motor.

 

[86humv]

That volt meter wire looks pretty bad.

 

[gcbennet]

Yup. No matter how well you wrap with electrical tape it will always eventually dry up and come apart, exposing the bare wires to moisture and corrosion. I would suggest finding any taped splices you have and installing proper crimped connectors sealed with heat shrink.

 

[KansasBobcat]

What I get from what you're saying about the breakers is that they're self-setting? I'll pull and inspect them and do a continuity test either way because there's not much left to check at this point. An answer to a previous question- I have no lights. No power whatsoever with batteries hooked up. Every hard connection I can find is clean and tight and I'll test the serviceability of the breakers to either rule them out or confirm that they're open, thus responsible for this ongoing issue.

Now for the S3. I have a new Nartron on the way to replace the KDS that failed. Out of curiosity is one manufacturer seen as having a higher failure history, or are they both pretty much on the same level?

Do not use smart box made by Lau Ind. These are so smart they start the HMMWV on their own and have destroyed some!

 

[gcbennet]

Ah, sky net! Humvees becoming self aware so they can destroy humanity! LoL

 

[gcbennet]

Question about the starter wiring IAW the TM. TM 9-2320-280-20-2, section 4-8 'Starter Replacement' labels wire #20 in the diagram as '3D' in both removal and installation diagrams. My wire is physically tagged '3C' so I was kind-of scratching my head. Now, in the same TM, only section 4-77 'Starter Power Cables Replacement' the same wire (#35 in this diagram) is listed as '3C' which is correct to my truck. Do you think the 4-8 diagram is

 

[gcbennet]

...a typo perhaps? There isn't another wire labelled '3D' in those diagrams so it's got me wondering.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

It kinda hard to miswire the starter, the size of the stud "power and ground" dictate where the
leads terminate....I'm other words, you cannot fit the ground wire to the pos stud.....IIRC, the start has 3 pos connections and 1, maybe 2...1pos connection comes from batteries, the other 2 come from the front from the engine working harness. That leave the 2 small wires that terminate to the starter solenoid.

Im in my lounge chair and can't remember exactly....but you get my drift...

 

[86humv]

Im in my lounge chair......
How u gonna get thinns done on them trucks inna lounge chair ?

 

[gcbennet]

The wire placement diagrams in the TM are quite detailed. But the only thing I'm curious about is the same wire having two labels in two different chapters on the TM- '3D' vs '3C'. 4-77 lists '3C' as STE/ICE-R lead, while 4-8 gives no identification to wire '3D'. When I was doing the starter replacement I actually found the wire clipped.

 

[papakb]

Steve, remember that the 8 ga lead from the alternator output finds it's way to the batteries via the starter motor (+) terminal.

 

[gcbennet]

Still having the zero power issue. No lights and the gauge needle doesn't even flicker. I have traced the voltage all the way from the batteries to the ignition switch thus far- 24.7v is getting to the the switch. 24.7 at the run, and 24.7 when I spring it to the start position. I can hear slightly audible hum at the S3 box when I turn to the run position. The batteries, S3, glow plugs, and starter are all new. I've checked and cleaned every ground and connection I can find. At this point I'm at a loss. I've either got to be missing something or the issue isn't obvious. I'd like to continue to trace the power by metering the pins coming out of the S3 but I'm not sure where to find a schematic of the cannon plug connectors.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Do you have power at the starter?jump the truck at the starter across the soenoid. Are your connectors correct at your start switch? Did you remove them at some point? There is a section in the TM to troubleshoot.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

What I have a problem with is no lights....I would replace the light switch as a start...a lot of stuff runs through it.

 

[gcbennet]

Indeed, there should be power at the lights regardless of the position if the ignition switch, but In my truck's case there isn't. I just swapped out the light switch to test your theory but it didn't change anything, unfortunately. What other ideas do you have?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I had this issue on a truck...I traced it to the positive stud that pass through from the battery box to the starter.
it was all connected, truck was driven to my back pad....then just nothing. All I did was take it apart, check it...reassembled and she started. Would also be a defective main ground...it's the lack of any power that has me.
if you disconnect the ground at starter and meter across pos at the starter and to the disconnected ground cable, do,you get 24v?..

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

FYI...one of those breakers is for run power behind the dash.
i need to look at my schematic in the morning.