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installing cargo tie-downs inside deuce bed

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I was going to make some pockets to weld in the floor to use the standard swivel d-rings for lifting heavy machinery, or as mentioned before a chain pigtail - my jeep weighs in at 5k and there is no way I would use anything less than a 3" strap per corner or 5/16" chain and a chain binder to secure it - seen too many loads come loose when not respected.
 

jwaller

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The USMC Corp. ISO five ton cargo beds come standard with the " nuclear tiedowns " eight to be exact. The Tie Down Kit shown here is a MWO kit NSN 2540-00-782-1467.

I had picked up this set off ebay a year ago so I could replace my old rusty " D " rings with NOS ones. The pots I will have to sand blast. Then I will drill a drain hole in the pot to let the water dran out.

seya,

C'dub
thats interesting that they are in the floor on the 5T and I like that idea. so they are not in the floor of the deuces but are on the dropside 5T. I might have to put a few in the floor of the deuce.
 

clinto

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Ok, so I am looking at Greenlee kits on eBarf and they seem to be referring to cutting holes in conduit. Are there different Greenlee kits to cut holes in flat surfaces vs. tubing, or does one kit do both styles and the ads are simply poorly worded?

Looking at the Greenlee website doesn't make it much clearer...........

http://www.mygreenlee.com/Products/...y_id=2&product_category=135&adodb_next_page=1

I need something that will do a 4.25" hole.

Can you rent these?

Thanks again fellas!
 

clinto

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They held this bed up with no issues whatsoever.
 

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tm america

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nice a3 bed clinto.i'm gonna be ordering me a set .i have a new tail gate that has them already so i want to make the bed side match.i'm gonna use the plasma cutter to pop the holes in there.they make a nice circle cutter for them to .but i find i dont need it i just trace the pattern with a marker or scribe it .then go to town .a drum sander will clean it up to make it look factory
 

baxter

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Normally the greenlee punch is used to punch holes in electrical cabinets or panels. If you know an electrician they me even have a hydrolic punch much easier than the screw type. All you do is hole saw a 1/2" hole then install the punch and pump the handle makes a nice clean hole and you dont have to worry about a big holesaw breaking your wrists.
 

Snarky

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Anyone got a picture of e-track installed? I know you can use it on the floor or sides, and I heard that it's weldable too, but I've never actually seen it installed into anything but a wood floor or wood wall on a trailer or box truck.

E-track has a lot of accessories: rings, tire strap, wood beam sockets, it seems very worthy to the deuce, I've just never seen it installed on anything metal. Welding seems like the fastest installation, but if you need to replace it due to damage, it might be a pain to grind or torch those welds.
 

gimpyrobb

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The E-track I got from Peterbuilt is pretty stout stuff. I doubt you will damage it with out trying. Mine has holes spaced every so often to run screws/bolts through. Next time I get in my m109, I'll try to get some pics.
 

Amer-team

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Sorry but getting off the original tie down track. Went to the welding shop and had him weld 7 heavy duty D ring tiedowns in the dropside bed of my 5 ton. There are 3 down each side and one in the middle front. We also made sure to place them over bed supports. The one in the middle is in case I have to come along something into the bed. I have bent a couple of the originals in the bed of my 715, so wanted something that wasn't going anywhere.

That is in case I ever load the jeep up. I asked a friend what they did for tiedowns in Vietnam and he said they just loaded the truck up, but most of the stuff he hauled was palatized.
 

MikeON

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Sorry but getting off the original tie down track. Went to the welding shop and had him weld 7 heavy duty D ring tiedowns in the dropside bed of my 5 ton. There are 3 down each side and one in the middle front. We also made sure to place them over bed supports. The one in the middle is in case I have to come along something into the bed. I have bent a couple of the originals in the bed of my 715, so wanted something that wasn't going anywhere.
I did something similar but used bolted D-rings to catch into the supports underneath. For the center supports that are boxed in, I made tapered square washers so the nuts would seat flat. For the open channel supports, I bolted in an angle iron to stiffen the support. Ran an FEA at work that showed the open channel needed stiffening. The holes are for wrench access.

I use these for chaining logs down, so wanted something stout.
 

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number9

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I was just looking at the flush mounted tie downs in the M105A3 this weekend and thinking it'd be nice to have them in the Deuce and add them to the M116A3 when I get to putting a floor on it.

.....
 

Speddmon

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Normally the greenlee punch is used to punch holes in electrical cabinets or panels. If you know an electrician they me even have a hydrolic punch much easier than the screw type. All you do is hole saw a 1/2" hole then install the punch and pump the handle makes a nice clean hole and you dont have to worry about a big holesaw breaking your wrists.
Here's the "whole"Greenlee setup, brand new and it's only $1700.00 !!!
I bought mine at a pawn shop ($400.00)
most tool rental places have them as well.

Yes, the hydraulic knockouts are the way to go. My hydraulic set has the stainless steel punches up to 3 inches (the largest stainless punches Greenlee makes) and regular punches up to 4". I also have a crimping head that goes on the pump to crimp wire terminations on anything from 8 awg to 500 MCM. Really really handy for the battery cables and slave cables.

I doubt that the bedside would even made the punch break a sweat with the hydraulic pump..
 
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