It's alive!!!

[Mogman]

Haven't had it running long enough to pay attention the fan. Will start looking out thou.


Yea, the line is connected to the PS cap, and runs to the filter. The lines are open where the Cdr used to be, and it's open where the fording canister used to be. Should I plug all these? One of my low pressure lines on the lower end of the is in rough shape. Probably will replace or trim next. But since I tight d the upper high pressure fitting, I don't habe the gurgling hissing sound anymore. Probably lots of air still in the system?

Since you are having trouble you should start by replacing all the return lines.
The vent line from the PS pump should not only go to the filter it should also be connected to the front and rear vent system, that would be the fuel pump, all the hubs and differentials, the transmission and transfer case.
Many run a separate vent line from the fuel pump, the pump can go bad and fill the hubs etc with diesel which is not a good enough lubricant for the hubs/diffs/trans/transfer etc.

 

[Thunderbirds]

TNDRIVER is correct but left out the most important step.

Jack the vehicle up so that it is at least 15 degrees elevated front over back. Then start the vehicle and turn the front wheels right locked to left and then left to right lock, 20 times. Then put the vehicle down and let it sit for two hours.

Wow, 15 degrees. That is going to be 19"+ wheel height at a wheelbase of 10' 10". My guess it will help with the trapped air hitting some elbow lines? Didn't see that in the TM. But I believe it. Thanks!

 

[Thunderbirds]

Since you are having trouble you should start by replacing all the return lines.

Yea, will be doing that. Thanks.

The vent line from the PS pump should not only go to the filter it should also be connected to the front and rear vent system, that would be the fuel pump, all the hubs and differentials, the transmission and transfer case.
Many run a separate vent line from the fuel pump, the pump can go bad and fill the hubs etc with diesel which is not a good enough lubricant for the hubs/diffs/trans/transfer etc.

Well, after you mention that, shortly after the two "purging" incidences where ATF came squirting out of the lines, I drained some diesel from the fuel system drain valve. Sure enough, it was very pink-ish. I am certain the ATF fluid got pushed through the Tee into the fuel system.



In your guys' opinion, where else will or should I now have ATF fluid? Hubs? I found a schematic for the lines, is the schematic complete and accurate, are there other lines you know of? The fuel pump isn't even mentioned on here so I think other items/systems aren't either. ATF from the P/S into the transfer case and transmission isn't bad, but if it got into the differentials, I'll be pissed after servicing then the hard way. I hope the two systems (ATF and Gear Oil) are separated.



AND, can I disconnect them at the Tee and have them bundled loosely, or should they stay connected? What purpose other than venting pressure do the lines have. What is the smart option to avoid any further cross contamination?

Thanks for sharing your wisdom... I am not going to run the truck until have this figured out so I avoid possible damages.

 

[TOBASH]

Are you certain your red fuel contains ATF and that no one used heating oil instead of Diesel fuel?

Heating oil and offroad Diesel fuel are red.

 

[Thunderbirds]

Are you certain your red fuel contains ATF and that no one used heating oil instead of Diesel fuel?

Heating oil and offroad Diesel fuel are red.

You are correct on the tints of them.

Almost 100% sure it is new, as a week ago the water/fuel I drained was clear. But I only drained 1/2 cup really.

The truck was sitting at the GP yard for some time, I think it was decommissioned in late 2022, so I hope no one was really messing around with it too much. Especially since the transfer case, transmission and diffs were empty.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

That’s just AG fuel…see it all the time on those m1123’s

 

[Mogman]

I did not think the fuel system was connected to the vent system, I thought it had a vent line that ether terminated near the air filter or connected to the air filter system when equipped with fording valve.
To answer your question you should remove the non used lines and no line should be left open, all the vent items should terminate at the air filter connection.

 

[Thunderbirds]

That’s just AG fuel…see it all the time on those m1123’s

Makes a lot of sense... Thanks TOBASH and Retiredwarhorses

To answer your question you should remove the non used lines and no line should be left open, all the vent items should terminate at the air filter connection.

Awesome, as always. Thank you. This is what I was looking for.

 

[Thunderbirds]

TNDRIVER is correct but left out the most important step.

Jack the vehicle up so that it is at least 15 degrees elevated front over back. Then start the vehicle and turn the front wheels right locked to left and then left to right lock, 20 times. Then put the vehicle down and let it sit for two hours.

Update on the (lack of) power steering. It is now fixed. After tightening the connector, jacked it as high as I was able, couldn't quite get 15 degrees, but close enough. Then, engine off, 20-30 times. Had to top off the reservoir, twice. But now it works like a charm.

Thanks TNDriver, TOBASH, Mogman, RWH, and all others.

Upon recommendation from Mogman, I'll keep posting issues, problems and other banalities to this thread. More updates coming...

 

[Thunderbirds]

Now recalling a few days ago when I had a chance to replace the fuel filter, the fuel water separator was not present. I will need to get a new one ordered, and noticed there are different versions out there. Some are made of plastic, other of steel mesh (Stainless?). Are both original, or which one is authentic, and how important is it to have them installed? I imagine the designers at AM General knew what they are doing, so no question one will be put in. What would happen if it never got replaced? Catastrophic, or annoyance?

Thanks all!

 

[Bulldogger]

Now recalling a few days ago when I had a chance to replace the fuel filter, the fuel water separator was not present. I will need to get a new one ordered, and noticed there are different versions out there. Some are made of plastic, other of steel mesh (Stainless?). Are both original, or which one is authentic, and how important is it to have them installed? I imagine the designers at AM General knew what they are doing, so no question one will be put in. What would happen if it never got replaced? Catastrophic, or annoyance?

Thanks all!

The water separators I have are all OEM and all plastic, for what it's worth. Having one is the priority, less so the material IMO.
BDGR

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Now recalling a few days ago when I had a chance to replace the fuel filter, the fuel water separator was not present. I will need to get a new one ordered, and noticed there are different versions out there. Some are made of plastic, other of steel mesh (Stainless?). Are both original, or which one is authentic, and how important is it to have them installed? I imagine the designers at AM General knew what they are doing, so no question one will be put in. What would happen if it never got replaced? Catastrophic, or annoyance?

Thanks all!

I don’t believe the filter can be installed correctly without the separator…..the separator is all plastic.

 

[Thunderbirds]

'mornin' all,


I need some advice on the transmission pan gasket.

This morning I pulled the pan off and am replacing the filter. The fluid looks great, no leaks from the gasket in the past, very little metal on the magnet. So far so good.

Looking at the gasket, the TM says to reuse the gasket unless damaged. My new filter came with a rubber-like gasket, the original one on the pan is a thick, stiff one, almost like a spacer. Also, the technician working on it last used some gasket maker, grey in color. On some spots even the blue non aerobic kind.





My question is, should I reuse the thicker style, add some gasket maker, or should I use the new, rubber style? Who all had similar parts, and what was the outcome?

Obviously I will be assembling the pan in the next 4 hours after cleaning all the old gasket maker off.

Thanks in advance to all!

 

[Mainsail]

'mornin' all,


I need some advice on the transmission pan gasket.

This morning I pulled the pan off and am replacing the filter. The fluid looks great, no leaks from the gasket in the past, very little metal on the magnet. So far so good.

Looking at the gasket, the TM says to reuse the gasket unless damaged. My new filter came with a rubber-like gasket, the original one on the pan is a thick, stiff one, almost like a spacer. Also, the technician working on it last used some gasket maker, grey in color. On some spots even the blue non aerobic kind.

View attachment 928593

View attachment 928594

My question is, should I reuse the thicker style, add some gasket maker, or should I use the new, rubber style? Who all had similar parts, and what was the outcome?

Obviously I will be assembling the pan in the next 4 hours after cleaning all the old gasket maker off.

Thanks in advance to all!

I suggest reusing the one that came off unless it looks damaged or compressed by a mechanic that torqued "by hand" instead of to spec.

If you use the gasket maker or silicone read the directions- it probably has to cure for 24 hours before you put the trans fluid back in.

 

[Thunderbirds]

I suggest reusing the one that came off unless it looks damaged or compressed by a mechanic that torqued "by hand" instead of to spec.

If you use the gasket maker or silicone read the directions- it probably has to cure for 24 hours before you put the trans fluid back in.

I was leaning towards that as well. If you zoom in, you can see the old gasket has metal inserts where the bolts run through, sort of a spacer function? The actual seal part is really only 1 or 2 ribs.

 

[Mogman]

I was leaning towards that as well. If you zoom in, you can see the old gasket has metal inserts where the bolts run through, sort of a spacer function? The actual seal part is really only 1 or 2 ribs.

View attachment 928596

That is a reusable gasket, the factory ones are the best, I always replace the pan though.
Edit, in this case I would probably replace the gasket with a new factory one since obviously whomever worked on it last did not know squat, never use a sealer on a pan gasket.

 

[Thunderbirds]

That is a reusable gasket, the factory ones are the best, I always replace the pan though.
Edit, in this case I would probably replace the gasket with a new factory one since obviously whomever worked on it last did not know squat, never use a sealer on a pan gasket.

When you say factory, do you mean order a new hard one, or go with the flexible rubber? I think you mean the latter, but want to double check.

Edit
Just reread your post, I understand better now, get a new hard gasket.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Thunderbirds]

Hello everyone.

Update on the transmission pan: I was able to clean up the pan mating surface, and the old gasket. I took a chance and installed it, static leak check was good. We drove the truck for 45 miles. continuously checking in 1-2 mile intervals, then 5 mile intervals. All is/was great, absolutely no leak. Super happy, and like @Mogman said, the original ones are the best.

New issue, I am leaning towards calling it TPS issue on hand of other posts.

Shifting into 2nd, and 3rd is good and smooth at consistent speeds. Around 46-52 mph, there has been a little hesitation, and what feels like it shifts into 4th and back to 3rd then to 4th, then after 52 mph it stays in 4rth/OD. This particular trip I lost power going uphill, almost has a feel between a manual clutch slipping at first then like the fuel pump not keeping up. Problem is that at the same RPMs at a lower gear, there are no problems, even going up a steeper hill. Only in the upper gear range. This time, the power loss was so great the truck slowed down to 37mph even with the accelerator floored, up a slight hill. Then later on the level parts of the road, almost no issue. Normally nothing the truck would have even noticed two weeks ago. I feel it is progressing. I've read about some similar symptoms, and most folks pointed towards TPS out of alignment. Does that sound correct? or possibly fuel pump going out? No major changes in the meantime between minor symptoms and latest major one.

I've never worked on a Diesel truck or a HMMWV, so I am stumped.

Thanks!

 

[Mogman]

Hopefully you can tell the difference between a slipping transmission and loss of power..

A slipping transmission usually means the engine is racing and you are not going anywhere.

Loss of power usually means the engine bogs down like someone is stepping on the brakes.

Best I can do at the moment....

But it is likely you need to service the fuel system.
You have replaced the fuel filter yes?

 

[jeffhuey1n]

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