Just won another GL generator, MEP-003a

[Triple Jim]

If you have no flow of fuel to the injector pump, the engine isn't going to run. But both main pumps not working sounds like a wiring or switch problem. If both pumps really are bad, you can use the auxiliary pump to replace one of them and get the unit running.

 

[dependable]

Got a chance to work on my new 003 for the first time. Had to do the fuel system clean out of course. This is the first one I ever got with full tank. It was foul and contaminated, whatever kind of fuel it was supposed to be. After filter change I let it cycle though on prime for a while to purge lines and IP. After that and sticky shut off solenoid it started right up, runs good, very little smoke , lots of oil pressure. Reconnection switch installed upside down and gauges not as accurate as some I have.

I have seen this mentioned, but it really is true, the 003 vibrates a lot less than 002 due to its piston balance.

It won't start my air compressor though. It is an old commercial 2 stage out of a body shop. The unloader valve seems to be working. 5hp Baldor motor, rated 25 amps at 230 volts, has 3 start capacitors and is hooked up to a magnetic start. Will have to look up thread I remember about testing main circuit breaker.

Any other helpful suggestions appreciated. I know, it is time for an 004.

 

[Triple Jim]

Just for reference, my 003A will start a very similar compressor, but you can tell it struggles briefly.

 

[Jimc]

i posted this in my other thread but......i thought mine was running well too but once i actually had the injectors done and tuned mine will start my spray booth which is a 3hp motor. at the same time have 16 or so high output 4 tube fluorescent fixtures on and with all that running it will fire off my 7.5hp compressor which is 38amps running and its supposed to be 65 amps startup. when that kicks on with the other stuff running i get a quick puff of black no longer than a snap of my fingers with almost no drop in rpm. it basically laughs at it. with that the meter is pegged at 133%. if i remember right the breaker tripped after about 10 min.

 

[dependable]

I may have the injectors re built at some point, but am not sure motor is the problem. The breaker on the 003 trips the instant I turn on the compressor, no time for motor response at all. This leads me to suspect something electrical, with the breaker being first in line. I tried another 5 hp motor that is on a hydraulic pump, and it tripped it too with no load on pump. I read the thread I remembered about the circuit breakers and motor starting surge. Found it righrt away with onsite google serch of 'ac circuit breaker'. Very interesting but no conclusion reached. Leads me to believe there is something wrong with my 003. This unit seems to have been put together from different sets, with some new parts. Although control box says MEP-003, I wonder if it could have a 002 breaker. How would I test it? I don't have a load bank, and that type of load is different from starting load anyway isn't it?

I am looking at this as a learning opportunity, as ability to run compressor during power outage is not critical, but would be nice. Had no power for 2 weeks after Hurricane Bob in '91.

 

[Jimc]

Oh yeah you have other issues then. This is a very informative thread. Check it out.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?61257-MEP-002A-and-003A-main-breaker

 

[dependable]

That was the tread I just read though. I guess I missed the solution in it. Am a decent mechanic, learning about electrical. Noticed the 20A and circle with line though it drawn on top of control box. Wonder if that means something. The tan stuff seems to be from the same desert faded 003, with a new reconnection switch mounted upside down.

 

[Munchies]

Could be an 002a a/c reconnection box on a 003a chassis. Fortunately everything but the breaker is the same. Look at the breaker for part numbers or amp ratings.

 

[Jimc]

If i understand what is written in that main breaker thread which i read prob 8mos ago, the breaker is just a contactor.The breaker trips by sensing current and different adjustments in the distribution box.

 

[dependable]

Checked my 002, it has 8 wraps around CT1, this 003 has 4 wraps, leading me to believe it is 003 reconnection box. Looks to be original breaker. Unfortuneatly the part number on it(299-3-4790-1) does not match any I saw in parts TM for either 002 or 003. The correct part number is on the 002's breaker, so I am looking in right place.

This leads me next to testing R-3 adjustment. If I am reading instructions right in TM (which is not a given), step d, I need to run at "rated load" with reconnection switch in 120v position to do test. Does that mean I need a load bank that can handle a measured 10KW at 120v? I don't have anything like that. Not sure if I want to mess with adjustment blind, would screwing it in increase or decrease adjustment?

Anything other than R-3 I can check?

 

[Isaac-1]

Just got mine going today too, well sort of going, the engine runs anyway. No volts (residual of about .5 VAC is showing up at the outlet), and the engine is running slow, around 1,500 rpms / 50.7 hz control knob does not change anything, and it is smoking a bit. On the good news side it started fairly easy after bleeding the fuel system up to the injection pump, did not have to bleed the injectors. I managed to get it started just as the sun was going down, and I don't have very good light in that part of my shop, so I decided to call it a day once I knew the engine ran.

Ike

p.s. I think the oil pressure gauge is sticking too.

 

[Triple Jim]

One step at a time... running is good.

 

[Isaac-1]

Yeah running is good, and it looks like the DC charging is working, which I was a bit concerned about since it came with a faded red negative battery cable and a black positive cable (each had about the last 3 inches at the battery end wrapped in opposite colors), for now I have spiral wrapped the length of each in appropriate red positive /black negative electrical tape. Thankfully I thought to look before blindly hooking red to red and black to black.

Ike

 

[dependable]

control knob does not change anything.

You probably know this, but macro adjustment is done by pushing center button on knob and sliding out. Micro adjustment by turning knob.

 

[dependable]

Had to play with the new 003 some more. By hooking it up to house and turning on a lot of stuff, was able to load it up to about 90%. It will then trip the breaker when something (like the well pump or a freezer)starts up. I can see the advantage of a controlled load like a load bank. Seems to trip at 105-110% load. I know from my 002s that it should be able to take brief surges at at least 125%. This brings me back to the problem of it not starting larger motors that the 003 should handle.

Have been reading up and I have a couple of questions: The TM says to do R-3 adjustment at 'rated load' with selector switch set to 120V. Anyone know if I would get an accurate reading if it was set to 120/240? Or do I need to put together a 120V load bank to do this test. Are there any other factors that could cause main breaker to trip early? I know I sort of asked this before, but maybe I worded it better this time. Any help appreciated.

Everything else runs like it is supposed to. Feeling fortunate about that as the 2 002s were a lot more work to get going.

 

[Munchies]

120/240 1 PH is fine. whether the load is 120 or 240 should not matter for adjusting the breaker. I dont think sewerzuk got much out of adjusting his IIRC...

 

[dependable]

Performed the R-3 test as per TM but in 120/240. Hope the TM is right about wire numbering. I used the 26f16 wire as as specified to TB3-1. When loaded close to 100% I got around 1.3-1.4 amps. ( It is supposed to be .6 amps at rated load. ) Got about 7.3 at 50% output. The readings did not change no matter how I adjusted the resistor, so I tried to put it close to original position. ( I hate it when an adjustment produces no change, makes one question the test or tester.)

Seems the main breaker will trip even before or just at 100%. Not sure what to try next, I guess the breaker could be worn out? It does look pretty old. Any other ideas? I guess maybe I could figure out how to test the variable resistor. Edit/update: checked variable resistor with ohm meter and it seems to work fine.

 

[Isaac-1]

I am getting closer on mine too, I had to adjust the throttle cable some, it is not the correct cable, but will work. I also found part of the lack of AC voltage problem, the push to reset AC breaker was not resetting, it looks like someone else had been searching for the problem before sending it to GL as the side cover had nice shiny new bolts holding it on, I cycled the push to reset breaker a handful of times and finally it showed continuity on my meter, cranked the generator up and 154VAC showing on the multi meter. So next step will be to install that spare AC AVR I bought from Jim last month, and repair this old one at my leisure (as if that ever happens). One cylinder is still smoking a bit, but starts clearing up after a minute or so of run time, so I may still have an issue there.


Ike

 

[Isaac-1]

And a turn for the worse, was not the AVR, voltage still high, I guess I will be looking at the CVT next

 

[Triple Jim]

Darn, that's bad news. I'll be waiting for an update.