LDS 465 1a rebuild or repower ?

[topo]

I still need to cut the frame and turn the engine so it sits where it should and make a front engine mount . I have been working on the pluming . I can't use the power steering pump already on the engine it sits to close to the frame I will have to find a military pump or use the belt driven one off of my other engine . if I had a military mack engine for parts that would be great . For now I want to get it set where it should go and start it and see what I have .

 

[topo]

Pictures

 

[islandguydon]

The question I have to ask is:

What do you have ability, location, tools and support wise to do either? If you don't have a way to handle a full engine, you choice is made. If you do, canned engines and take outs might be cheaper and faster, with the added benefit of your old engine becoming spare parts.Good luck and take lots of pics!

Hey man, as long as you have a decent chain fall and a strong tree limb your styling for a swap out, straight from the can. The required tools are minimal.

 

[topo]

I started my Mack 673 E engine today for the first time. It sounded good fired up and idled smooth .I still have lot"s to do but it's nice to see your work worth while .

 

[topo]

I removed the oil pan and formed it to miss the front end and took a picture of the front motor mount . also put the right fender on and made the exhaust pipe and hooked up the power steering reservoir I would have liked to use the one that came with the truck there was not a good place to put it .The power steering pump is the one off of the old engine with the inside plate turned a round . I hope the fuel filters will be able to be changed through the old generator panel .

 

[topo]

With the hood closed the air cleaner moved over .

 

[topo]

I drove m52a2 with the Mack 673 engine around the yard today . I thought I might have problems with the clutch and power steering .The bell housing disk and throw out bearing are military and the pressure plate and fly wheel are civilian . The power steering pump is from the LDS engine and it is now belt driven . every thing worked fine still more to do I'm happy with the way it worked .

 

[eagle4g63]

What did you ever do with the lds you took out?

 

[topo]

The LSD is still here . I don't have any plans for it there are not a lot of people interested in military trucks in this area .

 

[eagle4g63]

Well depending on the one I am working on............I may have to get a hold of you if you might be interested in parting ways with it.

 

[topo]

Yes it and 3 more ldt engines I bought at a yard sale need to go .

 

[eagle4g63]

PM sent about the LDS

 

[topo]

Mounted the oil filter on the power steering unit It's was the only place to put any thing that size under the hood .

 

[jesusgatos]

Centered the bell housing and drilled new dowel pin holes .

Cool project. Wondering if you wouldn't mind, would like to hear a little more about exactly how you centered and drilled that. Thanks.

 

[topo]

wrong reply to question

 

[topo]

Centering bell housing
I removed the old dowel pins and set the new bell housing in place .I used a thin lair of silicone between them . The dial indicator is held to the crank and is in contact with the inside of the bell housing I would turn the crank and write down the readings at 12 o clock 3 o clock 6 o clock and 9 o clock with all the bolts and just tight enough to hold the bell housing .just snugging down a bolt will move the dial indicator .You want to turn the crank and move the bell housing in small amounts by writing down the numbers you will see how to move it .This one I think I got it down to .004 and the book I think it should be under .008 . The tool I used for dowel pins has three sizes 5/8 ,11/16 and 3/4 when I went to buy new dowel pins from Mack and the Kenworth dealers they did not stock them when they changed a bell housing the dowels where ground flat or where drove in farther and not used just the bell housing bolts held the housing in place .

 

[topo]

Put the fender on for the last time I hope. The heater is ready to be hooked up .I did get to drive It down the road about 8 miles this was the first time to see what my top speed was going to be at 2100 RPM it will run 38 MPH with the multifuel it would run about 45 MPH . I still have a oil leak and a fuel leak to deal with .

 

[Mack Attack]

I would have swapped an 8.3L cummins or DT466 IHC into it along an ES 7spd. of course this a 5er so maybe those would of been more of a 2.5t type of repower.

400 big cam 4 Cummins 9spd-OD, Or maybe a Mack 350 with maxi-torque 7spd-OD ?

ditch the 11.00-20's 43" for 12R24.5's 45" and have truck that'll cruise 55-60mph and maybe hit 65-70mph, the Mack would net faster speeds as the Mack will hold higher revs (2,250rpm)than the cummins (2,000rpm) and the OD is deeper .60:1

 

[topo]

I looked at a lot of engines I really liked the Mack 285 or the 300 horse power engines . I was not sure they would fit there is a height problem the mack engines sit far to right to miss the third member on the axle the oil pan still needs to be modified . If some one wanted to there would be a lot of room to be gained if a body lift would was done . With the slope of the hood a lot of room is lost . I want to finish what I have started and get the bugs out and then deal with the low speed to me 50 mph would fast enough .

 

[Mack Attack]

Oh I didn't mean stop, Sorry I came in a bit to late on this. Those were the 2 combo's I have always wanted to try. The Cummins just didn't seem happy on a 5spd manual and the Mack's seemed to love the 5spd's. So I always figured a Cummins 9spd or Mack 7spd combinations would make for great Mil-spec repower's. I have always liked the Mack-350s and Cummins-400s so I picked those. The Mack 237-350 or Cummins 270-400 would both work great. I like DRW so I would at that piont swap from the 11.00-20s to12R24.5s just to got a bit more speed and clearance too. 42" to 45" would be enough extra tire. 22.5s for some reason run shorter than the 20s so a 12R22.5 = 11.00-20 and 11R22.5 = 10.00-20.