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LMTV My Custom Switch Pod

Overdrive

Active member
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Location
Wentzville, Missouri
Have not installed it yet or ran wiring but wanted to share a pic of my custom switch pod for the LMTV.

The case is the standard LMTV switch box that comes with switch holes. I found out quickly that the standard switch holes are too big for the fun 12v switches you can buy everywhere online so I had some spare aluminum sheeting lying around so I fabricated a new cover plate to fit the switches and added a trans temp gauge hole. Will be working on the wiring soon.... lots of projects!

Pic of the panel on the test bench
switchpanel1.jpg

will add pics after final install. I have it mounted in the box and in the truck but need to run all the wiring.

switchpanel3.jpg As you can see in the pic I am missing the plastic cover for my hand throttle... not sure why but it is bugging the heck out of me. If you have one let me know ;)

Thanks!
OD
 
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mkcoen

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Spring Branch, TX
That's a sweet looking set up. If I don't manage to get a winch truck I'll keep that set up in mind. Now if they'd just start selling some more LMTVs in TX I could get started.
 

Lmtv772

Banned
651
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0
Location
Florida
That's a sweet looking set up. If I don't manage to get a winch truck I'll keep that set up in mind. Now if they'd just start selling some more LMTVs in TX I could get started.
There were only 5% of the LMTV ever made as winch trucks. You'll pay a hefty premium for that privilege of owning one.
 

MGKMartin

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Portland, OR
This looks really good. How are you planning on powering the panel? Wire it to an unused circuit breaker in the Power Distribution Panel?
 

Overdrive

Active member
411
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28
Location
Wentzville, Missouri
Plan A is to tap off the 12v source stud on the left side of the power distro panel and install an aux very small fuse box to run the box.

I am already using the 12v spare supply wires under the panel for a 12v outlet I drilled into the lower cover. Interesting note on that. There are two 12v wires crimped together on that feed so I cut the crimp being all happy to have 2 existing 12v fused power sources but only having one of them connected to the 12v outlet won't power my littlest GPS.... maybe something wrong with my outlet. I should investigate further. Multimeter is reading 12v at the outlet.
 

Oxyacetylene

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Stoneville, NC
There were only 5% of the LMTV ever made as winch trucks. You'll pay a hefty premium for that privilege of owning one.
Glad I got mine when I did then!

I like the switch panel. That would be a good place to put some powered USB ports for phones and such!
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
5,047
3,377
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Location
North of Cincy OH
Plan A is to tap off the 12v source stud on the left side of the power distro panel and install an aux very small fuse box to run the box.

I am already using the 12v spare supply wires under the panel for a 12v outlet I drilled into the lower cover. Interesting note on that. There are two 12v wires crimped together on that feed so I cut the crimp being all happy to have 2 existing 12v fused power sources but only having one of them connected to the 12v outlet won't power my littlest GPS.... maybe something wrong with my outlet. I should investigate further. Multimeter is reading 12v at the outlet.
Is there a thread in here on 12v power sources on the LMTV you could point me at? If not can you elaborate on your 12v dances in a new thread maybe? Don't want to create distraction/hijack in this thread
 

aleigh

Well-known member
1,040
50
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Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
I recently installed a RigRunner on my dash and I took power off the studs from the feeds in the fuse panel as was suggested. Works fine. There was room to route the cable out without any cutting. I used automotive grade wire, but not the black milspec. It was what I had. The wire does matter though, that it is the right kind.

You can see here if you look closely: https://www.flickr.com/photos/adventioneering/24770761922/in/album-72157662091706364/
 

steelandcanvas

Well-known member
6,187
85
48
Location
Southwestern Idaho
I recently installed a RigRunner on my dash and I took power off the studs from the feeds in the fuse panel as was suggested. Works fine. There was room to route the cable out without any cutting. I used automotive grade wire, but not the black milspec. It was what I had. The wire does matter though, that it is the right kind.

You can see here if you look closely: https://www.flickr.com/photos/adventioneering/24770761922/in/album-72157662091706364/
Looks good! Yes, the correct wire is important. I have tried to make all my wiring additions look like they were done in the Motorpool...That sounded good until I read it back to myself! Motorpool work?? :)
 

aleigh

Well-known member
1,040
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Location
Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
Just another thought on this - I was tempted to take the power from the TOP of the fuse panel, instead of the BOTTOM (with all thew wires). The bolts for the power feeds screw upwards (towards the roof of the cab) but you can also screw a bolt down from the top. I couldn't get it to work but if you had bolts of the right length you could screw from both sides. Speaking of things that don't sound right.

Also this is probably obvious but the feeds are always-on. If you want switched, you have to basically add a circuit to the panel, which also can be done fairly simply.
 

Overdrive

Active member
411
93
28
Location
Wentzville, Missouri
OD, Are you going to use Mil-Spec wire and connections to connect everything up?

Here is a good source should you want to stay Mil-Spec.

http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/prwiformive1.html

http://eriksmilitarysurplus.com/coandte.html
Hi steelandcanvas,
Thanks for those links. I just went with automotive wiring of a few different gauges and lots of abrasion cover and wire wrap to make a mini harness for the aux stuff. 6 fuse aux panel with a separate negative bus bar. Still have the final cleanup to do and add my CB power box before I am done.
 
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