-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Looking for recommendations on Injection Pump rebuild in the Ft. Worth area
- Thread starter Jack Lope
- Start date
Ah! Let me go check.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,431
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Thus the 15mm swivel socket. the 2 bottom 15mm injection pump to back of timing cover nuts. You are doing great. no worries. It goes back together easier. Trust me.
Holy smokes, I will have ratchet wrenches before I re-install. I've managed to get the IP loose, but there is a hard vacuum line that is preventing me from taking the spider off the engine. The line was connected to the top of this plastic part that is attached to the IP. The hard line runs down the length and is bolted down to the valve cover on the passenger side and disappears into the abyss at the back of the engine. If this was a rubber hose, how much easier it would have been. So I'm stuck at the moment dealing with that.
Attachments
Ok, this is where I'm done for the night. Is there a way to wiggle the spider out from under this line? I traced it in red and circled the bolts on the valve covers in green. It's dark now, but I'm happy with the progress made so far. I'll try to get home early tomorrow to pull it out. Time for a beer. [edit] Are you referring to this line in this quote?
Attachments
Last edited:
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,431
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Yes I thought of that but also thought you would proceed and remove the 2 13mm nuts from the top valve cover studs. You will need to do that and ever so gently bend that up a bit to get the spider/fuel feed lines out from under the vacuum line. That is the vacuum line that goes from the top port on the shift/vacuum modulator on the right side of the injection pump. It travels down and is suppose to be snapped fast/attached to the transmission dipstick /fill tube. iI ends at the right front side of the TH400 transmission at the shift modulator and is connected by a small short piece of vacuum line. You done a good/stupendous job so far. Enjoy the evening. Tomorrow night we want to have the pump out and have it all stripped down and in a box ready to be sent out for rebuilding. Great job. Have a great day. Later.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,431
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Th pump is off? Great. Not sure why you are paying $12. for the return. ??? Have you taken everything that bolts to the pump off?
85CUCVtom
Active member
- 712
- 26
- 28
- Location
- Lakewood, Ohio
Not to hijack the thread but does Diesel Care just do a seal kit for $275 or actually put new parts in and test the pump to make sure everything is A1?
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,431
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Check out the web page. They show a sophisticated piece of machinery/equipment used to calibrate the pumps. The pumps always work good when i get them back. That is all I care. The volume of business they do they must be doing something right. But I am sure someone was unhappy with their products at one time or another. Most times I see unhappy people with things they have jacked around and turned the pump up and things are not as designed and run poorly. I installed several over 10 but not 20 and have had excellent results. I just put it on a stock engine and run it. works for me.
Jack Lope did you get that pump off?
Jack Lope did you get that pump off?
Got the pump off. This is where I'm at (pics). Is there anything more I need to remove or do to it? I tried wiping some of the grime off, but it's pretty caked on there. How clean do I need to get it? 
I used a silver Sharpie marker to circle where the location of the washers/bolts that held the plastic part on. I also used tape and numbered the fuel lines like a clock starting at 1 o'clock and ending at 11 o'clock. [edit] The tag says DB 2829 4521 J. As for the $12 for return shipping, I don't know. That's what the lady said when I called.
I used a silver Sharpie marker to circle where the location of the washers/bolts that held the plastic part on. I also used tape and numbered the fuel lines like a clock starting at 1 o'clock and ending at 11 o'clock. [edit] The tag says DB 2829 4521 J. As for the $12 for return shipping, I don't know. That's what the lady said when I called.Attachments
Last edited:
Hopefully I haven't screwed something up! I got off at 5pm and went straight to work on the truck. CUCVRUS, thank you for the guidance! I hope you're available when the pump gets back! I'm thinking I might paint valve covers in the meantime. I'm not certain, but I think valve covers are straight forward, and should come off easily, right? I'm debating between Detroit Diesel Alpine green engine enamel or stick with black. The next couple of weeks, while waiting for the pump, I'm hoping to be cleaning and painting some. [edit] Checking pics of injection pumps on the big auction website and they show pics with the intake fuel line removed. So, I've pulled this part since taking the pics.
I'm debating between Detroit Diesel Alpine green engine enamel or stick with black. The next couple of weeks, while waiting for the pump, I'm hoping to be cleaning and painting some. [edit] Checking pics of injection pumps on the big auction website and they show pics with the intake fuel line removed. So, I've pulled this part since taking the pics.Attachments
Last edited:
CUCVLOVER
Active member
- 2,352
- 9
- 38
- Location
- west Tennessee, just outside Milan
Sorry I just now seen this thread.
Looks like you have it under control. As Rick said I had my pump rebuilt not long ago. It is a bit sketchy pulling the pump off but not bad once you get at it and GO SLOW.
My pump was rebuilt and back to me in like 4 days. I am super happy with it and I will only call diesel performance in Memphis to get my 6.2 injection parts.
They did have to put a piston in my pump but that was only like another 20 bucks they even cleaned and painted the pump.
I cleaned and painted my intake and air box. I did the air box black and that intake od green. My alts are green so I figured why not lol. Just use a wire brush and some brake parts cleaner to clean the intake. A 1/2 socket works nice on the bolts inside the oil fill. They jam in nicely in the socket. But make sure you line up the pump correctly or you will get the line up pin in a bolt hole.
If needed clean your CDR and oil cap. A screw driver and some carb cleaner works great in it.
Looks like you have it under control. As Rick said I had my pump rebuilt not long ago. It is a bit sketchy pulling the pump off but not bad once you get at it and GO SLOW.
My pump was rebuilt and back to me in like 4 days. I am super happy with it and I will only call diesel performance in Memphis to get my 6.2 injection parts.
They did have to put a piston in my pump but that was only like another 20 bucks they even cleaned and painted the pump.
I cleaned and painted my intake and air box. I did the air box black and that intake od green. My alts are green so I figured why not lol. Just use a wire brush and some brake parts cleaner to clean the intake. A 1/2 socket works nice on the bolts inside the oil fill. They jam in nicely in the socket. But make sure you line up the pump correctly or you will get the line up pin in a bolt hole.
If needed clean your CDR and oil cap. A screw driver and some carb cleaner works great in it.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,431
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Fuel feed removed. Correct the pump is ready to go. I had the easy part you did the work. CUCVLOVER painted his intake OD green because he leaves his hoo up all the time when he is looking at his engine He did not want it to break up the camo pattern from an aerial view. I will be available when the pump returns. Unless my name gets roll called up yonder.Hopefully I haven't screwed something up! I got off at 5pm and went straight to work on the truck. CUCVRUS, thank you for the guidance! I hope you're available when the pump gets back! I'm thinking I might paint valve covers in the meantime. I'm not certain, but I think valve covers are straight forward, and should come off easily, right?
CUCVLOVER
Active member
- 2,352
- 9
- 38
- Location
- west Tennessee, just outside Milan
That is basically it CUCVRUS.
Also that small clip for the throttle can be easy to lose. The clip off of a master link for #40 chain works great. I lost the clip for mine and drove the truck a couple days after I had it back together and found the clip on the rad support. I'm still using the master link clip. The factory clip was basically worn out on my truck.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,431
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
My factory clip wore out a few years ago also. But don't matter I found something else to do during that time.
So, I was wondering about re-connecting the fuel lines to the injection pump. It was a challenge to get them loose because it was hard to get any leverage on the pump without bending the other lines. Is there a trick to getting them re-connected? Just checking to see if there are additional tools I should pick up to help the assembly.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,431
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
A 16mm line wrench is what I use. I clamp the ear of the pump in a vise and put the lines back on tight. I used a 5/8"crows foot line wrench already to when I had nothing else at a friends house. But I have a 16mm line wrench that works fine. Hope that helps you. I have a Sap-on wrench. I have had others slip and spread open.
I little off topic, but I'm trying to remove the valve covers while I have the opportunity and paint them. I've got the bolts out, but the covers are glued down tight with what appears to be orange RTV sealant. I've tried hitting them with a rubber mallet but don't want to dent them. I haven't found a good place to try to pry with a screwdriver either and don't want to bend them. Any suggestions? On a side note, I got a call this morning that the pump is done and is on it's way back.