Continuing the saga...
The 6.5 engine with the broken block over the outside starter bolt mount started as soon as we put 24 volts to the starter. It runs good with only 20-25 psi oil pressure. So if I ever needed to use it, a new pump and a look around the bearings would be called for.
Warthog mentioned a GEP 6500 in one of the first post of this thread. Good compression in 7 cylinders and 0 on #3. Once we got the broken block 6.5 to run, we swapped all the fuel and wiring stuff over to the Optimizer. I was really hoping Joe was blind, confused or just didn't test that #3 cylinder for compression. Turns out he was correct. A few other cylinders on both sides were in the 180-190 range on my oh so accurate 4 years old Harbor Freight diesel tester. The end cylinders on both sides were 370-380 psi. But, 65 psi oil pressure spinning it over with the glow plugs pulled.
We pulled the heads of Friday. The fire rings were still there on both sides, but no gasket material between #1 and #3 along with not much for the rest of them. Black marks on the heads and block between all cylinders too. Which leaves me with a dilemma:
Straight edge what I have after cleaning them up and try to throw them back on with new Felpro gaskets and bolts if they seem flat?
Take what came off, GEP Navistar cast 567 heads with Square pre-cups, to a machine shop, throw money at and then install?
Drive 800 miles round trip to Joe and pick up the other GEP engine with the exact same heads and a spun bearing?
Install brand new just unwrapped surplus 567 Diamond pre cup GEP heads? That have the 60° intake bolt holes for a center mount turbo leaving me to plug the holes and cut 90° holes in the head which I think is my least favorite option? Drill new holes in a CUCV 6.2 intake to make it bolt up or get a HMMWV twin runner center mount turbo intake and make a turbo inlet tube?
Amazingly, every option except the CUCV intake cut up and new holes in the head will cost almost exactly the same. Since I have a few of the CUCV manifolds sitting around I think I will try that first and then go from there.
Before I do any of that though I wanted to look at the bottom of the engine for cracked webbing and such. We got the pan off today but are letting the oil drip until tomorrow. Looking up, all seems to be super clean and good.
We finally found something clean on the Cowdog truck too!. The inside of the fuel tank was spotless and the sock was clean. The fuel gauge sender even worked on an Ohm meter too. Of course both tank straps broke when we tried to loosen them.
I put a complete M1008 bumper on the rear frame horns trying to see what needs to be done for it to fit and look right. The picture below tells the story. Without cutting a bunch of the frame or removing most of the shackle mount bracket, it won't fit right. M1009 rear bumper it is.
Besides the rear bumper picture below are the odd side head with gasket still on it, odd side cylinders and one of the cargo doors I primed the inside of last night.