M1008 Build

[rmesgt]

I have been following this thread with great interest and RESPECT as I doubt I would have the skills necessary to take things to the level you have achieved. Hopefully, my new shop will be built this summer and I will be able to repair my M1008 and M1009 bodies as you have. While looking at your photo's, I noticed that you had your cab suspended from the ceiling. Can you please explain how you did it, what you used, etc? My new shop is going to be a steel building and I may need to reinforce the roof purlins to lift the cab. I don't know what they weigh, but I doubt the building engineer took into account that someone like me would be trying to suspend truck bodies from the roof. My new shop will be large enough (and high enough) to perhaps build a rolling gantry. Your thoughts? Idea's anyone? I am a sponge.

Peace in Christ...
Leo

 

[DIVE DIVE]

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Had to reply to this post in particular...

Everything is looking good to me!
I can only assume that it is this good only because Super(visor) Dog is there keeping an eye on you
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No doubt!

 

[Mullaney]

I have been following this thread with great interest and RESPECT as I doubt I would have the skills necessary to take things to the level you have achieved. Hopefully, my new shop will be built this summer and I will be able to repair my M1008 and M1009 bodies as you have. While looking at your photo's, I noticed that you had your cab suspended from the ceiling. Can you please explain how you did it, what you used, etc? My new shop is going to be a steel building and I may need to reinforce the roof purlins to lift the cab. I don't know what they weigh, but I doubt the building engineer took into account that someone like me would be trying to suspend truck bodies from the roof. My new shop will be large enough (and high enough) to perhaps build a rolling gantry. Your thoughts? Idea's anyone? I am a sponge.

Peace in Christ...
Leo

.
rmesgt (Leo), I would suggest a gantry rather than swinging something from the building.

We bought a Butler Building (Steel) and the engineering folks had to "stamp and seal" the drawings when we added air conditioning ductwork. Of course the Mecklenburg County Building Standards folks are some of the worst in the country for being hard to work with... Might easily hang a truck cab from the trusses, but a gantry won't let you pull your building down on your head.

One of the guys here built a wooden gantry to lift the Cummins 250 out of his 5-Ton, so I know wood will support what you want to do.

 

[rmesgt]

Thank you for your quick reply! I was thinking the same way you are. I also hope to install a two post vehicle lift in my shop and was thinking that just might what I need to elevate the body from the frame. Once elevated, I could pull the frame out from underneath it and then put a wheeled cart under the body and lower the lift.

 

[DIVE DIVE]

I have been following this thread with great interest and RESPECT as I doubt I would have the skills necessary to take things to the level you have achieved. Hopefully, my new shop will be built this summer and I will be able to repair my M1008 and M1009 bodies as you have. While looking at your photo's, I noticed that you had your cab suspended from the ceiling. Can you please explain how you did it, what you used, etc? My new shop is going to be a steel building and I may need to reinforce the roof purlins to lift the cab. I don't know what they weigh, but I doubt the building engineer took into account that someone like me would be trying to suspend truck bodies from the roof. My new shop will be large enough (and high enough) to perhaps build a rolling gantry. Your thoughts? Idea's anyone? I am a sponge.

Peace in Christ...
Leo

Hello Leo,
I used the bottom chord of the trusses to support the cab weight that was distributed to the second floor using some 10 ft lengths of 1/4” 1.5”x3” c-channel via some 15k nylon ratchet straps with a basket sling strap attached to the door hinges and around the b pillar. I figured conservatively that the cab weighed 500 lbs since there wasn’t anything in it including glass or seat.
My wife and I built the shop so I know that it is rated for 40 lbs per square foot live load in addition to the static load rating since the trusses are engineered and the bottom chord is a 2”x10”. Using the c-channel to transfer the weight to the floor upstairs and assuming roughly even distribution with the c-channel I assumed that the surface area for each piece was roughly 10 square feet of distributed force which gave me, again roughly, 20 square feet which would be plenty (~800 lbs) of conservative safe distributed weight capability. Anyways, long story short I could park two m1008 trucks upstairs if I wanted to and they would still be within the horizontal deflection specifications for the trusses!

 

[rmesgt]

Hello Leo,
I used the bottom chord of the trusses to support the cab weight that was distributed to the second floor using some 10 ft lengths of 1/4” 1.5”x3” c-channel via some 15k nylon ratchet straps with a basket sling strap attached to the door hinges and around the b pillar. I figured conservatively that the cab weighed 500 lbs since there wasn’t anything in it including glass or seat.
My wife and I built the shop so I know that it is rated for 40 lbs per square foot live load in addition to the static load rating since the trusses are engineered and the bottom chord is a 2”x10”. Using the c-channel to transfer the weight to the floor upstairs and assuming roughly even distribution with the c-channel I assumed that the surface area for each piece was roughly 10 square feet of distributed force which gave me, again roughly, 20 square feet which would be plenty (~800 lbs) of conservative safe distributed weight capability. Anyways, long story short I could park two m1008 trucks upstairs if I wanted to and they would still be within the horizontal deflection specifications for the trusses!View attachment 855024

By being a 92Y for 24 years, I completely bypassed every possible physics and engineering class ever offered. I think I will build my shop, then build a gantry, and then, by trial and error, try to fix my trucks. Thank goodness for the Tech Manuals, this forum, and the incredible degree of intelligence that so many of you posses. It makes it possible for guys like me to get the job done...

 

[DIVE DIVE]

By being a 92Y for 24 years, I completely bypassed every possible physics and engineering class ever offered. I think I will build my shop, then build a gantry, and then, by trial and error, try to fix my trucks. Thank goodness for the Tech Manuals, this forum, and the incredible degree of intelligence that so many of you posses. It makes it possible for guys like me to get the job done...

Well thank you for your service. I agree that this group is truly remarkable and such a great resource for us all. A gantry is certainly a valuable tool to have if you have the space for it. I would love to have a lift but couldn't justify the resale hit by putting one in to satisfy the .1% of the population that would use it when we have to sell our house and move on again in a few years. But until we build our final home it'll have to be adaptation and improvisation!

 

[ezgn]

Hello Leo,
I used the bottom chord of the trusses to support the cab weight that was distributed to the second floor using some 10 ft lengths of 1/4” 1.5”x3” c-channel via some 15k nylon ratchet straps with a basket sling strap attached to the door hinges and around the b pillar. I figured conservatively that the cab weighed 500 lbs since there wasn’t anything in it including glass or seat.
My wife and I built the shop so I know that it is rated for 40 lbs per square foot live load in addition to the static load rating since the trusses are engineered and the bottom chord is a 2”x10”. Using the c-channel to transfer the weight to the floor upstairs and assuming roughly even distribution with the c-channel I assumed that the surface area for each piece was roughly 10 square feet of distributed force which gave me, again roughly, 20 square feet which would be plenty (~800 lbs) of conservative safe distributed weight capability. Anyways, long story short I could park two m1008 trucks upstairs if I wanted to and they would still be within the horizontal deflection specifications for the trusses!View attachment 855024

So 40 lbs. per sq. ft. of live load, is that a roof load or is that the load on the bottom cord? Having a live load on the bottom cord of a truss seems o bit unusual. Is the middle section engineered for a second story? I see truss gussets on the bottom cord and no interior bearing walls. Seems like the load calcs. would be designed for the entire overall design of the structure and not certain sections of it. supporting a cab may be doable, but parking two truck on the top of the truss cord seem suspect to me. Not trying to be critical, just wondering. Nice shop. Good work!

 

[DIVE DIVE]

So 40 lbs. per sq. ft. of live load, is that a roof load or is that the load on the bottom cord? Having a live load on the bottom cord of a truss seems o bit unusual. Is the middle section engineered for a second story? I see truss gussets on the bottom cord and no interior bearing walls. Seems like the load calcs. would be designed for the entire overall design of the structure and not certain sections of it. supporting a cab may be doable, but parking two truck on the top of the truss cord seem suspect to me. Not trying to be critical, just wondering. Nice shop. Good work!

I don't want to get too far from the truck discussion here guys, but yes, the trusses are designed and approved by a professional engineer with a living space on the second story, yes the trusses are rated for 40 psf live load upstairs, no that is not roof loading, no there are no interior walls, and no I would not actually put a vehicle upstairs. I could talk for days on end about how we built the shop if anyone is super interested please let me know and I can send you the plans and answer any more questions in a separate venue.

 

[Squibbly]

Wasn’t too pleased to find the engine filled with water.View attachment 853578View attachment 853579View attachment 853580

What is your plan for the engine given the shape it is in?
Are you going to get another one, or fix this one?

Based on what I've seen so far, one of these days I hope to know as much as you've probably forgotten about fixing these.


Do you do this for a living? It seems like you need to have phenomenal organization skills and patience to do this level of restoration work.

 

[DIVE DIVE]

What is your plan for the engine given the shape it is in?
Are you going to get another one, or fix this one?

Based on what I've seen so far, one of these days I hope to know as much as you've probably forgotten about fixing these.


Do you do this for a living? It seems like you need to have phenomenal organization skills and patience to do this level of restoration work.

At this point I’m not exactly sure. Option one is to reassemble the engine using existing parts with minimal investment but understanding that the engine will not last long due to some pitting on the cam, mild cylinder wall corrosion, moderate existing bearing wear, and three pitted lifter rollers. This option would require a gasket kit, and various consumables. Probably 200 dollars total and 20 man hours of cleaning and prep. Option two is to rebuild it the right way, have the block machined, new rotating assembly and valve train, and rebuilt cylinder heads. This option is most expensive but minimal work. Probably around 2k but only time investment is assembly really so maybe 4 hours. Option 3 would be buying a used engine and installing it blind with no real understanding of the engine condition until I turn the key over the first time. This is the most likely option due to cost effectiveness and time investment. And I guess the last option would be to rebuild and install the 6.0 L LS that I have. This is very expensive, leaves the truck unoriginal and is really a non-starter for me honestly.

I would like to find a good used engine and clean it up nice. I’m continuously scanning for a used engine somewhere near but haven’t found anything reasonable as of yet.

to answer your question: no, I don’t do this for a living but that would be nice. I’m active duty still, but maybe my hobby will become a job in a few years when I retire!
Here are a few pics of the engine after the first inspection and some mild cleanup.

 

[DIVE DIVE]

Finally got the transfer case rear sleeve bearing installed. Part numbers are as pictured. The National part 5208 came with the wrong sleeve so I ordered a factory GM part. The National part was about .020” too small on the OD, although it’s a bit tough to mic since they aren’t perfectly round out of the box.

 

[ezgn]

At this point I’m not exactly sure. Option one is to reassemble the engine using existing parts with minimal investment but understanding that the engine will not last long due to some pitting on the cam, mild cylinder wall corrosion, moderate existing bearing wear, and three pitted lifter rollers. This option would require a gasket kit, and various consumables. Probably 200 dollars total and 20 man hours of cleaning and prep. Option two is to rebuild it the right way, have the block machined, new rotating assembly and valve train, and rebuilt cylinder heads. This option is most expensive but minimal work. Probably around 2k but only time investment is assembly really so maybe 4 hours. Option 3 would be buying a used engine and installing it blind with no real understanding of the engine condition until I turn the key over the first time. This is the most likely option due to cost effectiveness and time investment. And I guess the last option would be to rebuild and install the 6.0 L LS that I have. This is very expensive, leaves the truck unoriginal and is really a non-starter for me honestly.

I would like to find a good used engine and clean it up nice. I’m continuously scanning for a used engine somewhere near but haven’t found anything reasonable as of yet.

to answer your question: no, I don’t do this for a living but that would be nice. I’m active duty still, but maybe my hobby will become a job in a few years when I retire!
Here are a few pics of the engine after the first inspection and some mild cleanup.View attachment 855090View attachment 855091View attachment 855092After

At this point I’m not exactly sure. Option one is to reassemble the engine using existing parts with minimal investment but understanding that the engine will not last long due to some pitting on the cam, mild cylinder wall corrosion, moderate existing bearing wear, and three pitted lifter rollers. This option would require a gasket kit, and various consumables. Probably 200 dollars total and 20 man hours of cleaning and prep. Option two is to rebuild it the right way, have the block machined, new rotating assembly and valve train, and rebuilt cylinder heads. This option is most expensive but minimal work. Probably around 2k but only time investment is assembly really so maybe 4 hours. Option 3 would be buying a used engine and installing it blind with no real understanding of the engine condition until I turn the key over the first time. This is the most likely option due to cost effectiveness and time investment. And I guess the last option would be to rebuild and install the 6.0 L LS that I have. This is very expensive, leaves the truck unoriginal and is really a non-starter for me honestly.

I would like to find a good used engine and clean it up nice. I’m continuously scanning for a used engine somewhere near but haven’t found anything reasonable as of yet.

to answer your question: no, I don’t do this for a living but that would be nice. I’m active duty still, but maybe my hobby will become a job in a few years when I retire!
Here are a few pics of the engine after the first inspection and some mild cleanup.View attachment 855090View attachment 855091View attachment 855092

After all the time and great work you have done so far it would be the crowning glory if you could give the patient a new heart. Rebuilding the engine and spending the $2000, I think would make your project much more rewarding, and complete the project to the finish it deserves. Whatever you decide the outcome will be amazing.

 

[Mullaney]

At this point I’m not exactly sure. Option one is to reassemble the engine using existing parts with minimal investment but understanding that the engine will not last long due to some pitting on the cam, mild cylinder wall corrosion, moderate existing bearing wear, and three pitted lifter rollers. This option would require a gasket kit, and various consumables. Probably 200 dollars total and 20 man hours of cleaning and prep. Option two is to rebuild it the right way, have the block machined, new rotating assembly and valve train, and rebuilt cylinder heads. This option is most expensive but minimal work. Probably around 2k but only time investment is assembly really so maybe 4 hours. Option 3 would be buying a used engine and installing it blind with no real understanding of the engine condition until I turn the key over the first time. This is the most likely option due to cost effectiveness and time investment. And I guess the last option would be to rebuild and install the 6.0 L LS that I have. This is very expensive, leaves the truck unoriginal and is really a non-starter for me honestly.

I would like to find a good used engine and clean it up nice. I’m continuously scanning for a used engine somewhere near but haven’t found anything reasonable as of yet.

to answer your question: no, I don’t do this for a living but that would be nice. I’m active duty still, but maybe my hobby will become a job in a few years when I retire!
Here are a few pics of the engine after the first inspection and some mild cleanup.View attachment 855090View attachment 855091View attachment 855092

.
Opinions are like certain parts of the anatomy - where everyone has one... Seems that from your description and just looking at the parts, it almost feels like that motor needs (wants) a rebuild. It may very well last as long as you do with the time and effort in a complete rebuild. Of course that takes time, effort, and money too.

You mentioned being on the active roster, so it might be that this motor gets crated up and saved for later. You could always rebuild it after you retire and "uncle" is sending you money every month? At least that way you will have a project for when you wonder what the heck you will do with your time.

I am seeing really nice work and I have enjoyed following along.
Best on your quest and whatever your decide...

 

[DIVE DIVE]

ezgn:
I'm sure that I'll end up going over the top and being unnecessarily meticulous with the engine. Now that I've put so much time into the frame and cab parts i find myself not even wanting to put a used fastener back in without hitting it with some degreaser and a wire wheel. I also know that if i do the engine right now I'll be much more likely to rush everything else in order to get her on the road, so I'm constantly having to resist moving to the engine restoration portion of the project.

 

[ezgn]

ezgn:
I'm sure that I'll end up going over the top and being unnecessarily meticulous with the engine. Now that I've put so much time into the frame and cab parts i find myself not even wanting to put a used fastener back in without hitting it with some degreaser and a wire wheel. I also know that if i do the engine right now I'll be much more likely to rush everything else in order to get her on the road, so I'm constantly having to resist moving to the engine restoration portion of the project.

Your reply is exactly what I expected to come from you. It is obvious how meticulous and focused you are at achieving a standard of top-notch quality and workmanship. I admire those types of work ethics from people no matter what type of endeavor they choose. Do a job to the best of your abilities and the result will speak for itself.

 

[DIVE DIVE]

Alright, we’ll I got the inner axle seals installed and the carrier set up last night and the locker installed. Transfer case is buttoned up minus the 4wd light switch, which was smashed, so I’ll have to order a new one. I already validated that the switch wiring and light work on the dash when I did my end to end checks and light checks a few weeks ago. Inner axle seals are Yukon part number YMS470682.

 

[Dillard88]

Jeez! Here I am fretting about replacing my headlight switch lol

 

[DIVE DIVE]

Here are the pinion seal and the front output shaft seals that I used. Not sure exactly what the input shaft seal part number is because it was a spare that I had in my gaskets and seals drawer.

 

[DIVE DIVE]

I finally found a couple of old pics. I was exercising the suspension after I installed the lift on the M1009. That pic was in Pearl Harbor, HI. The M1009 was originally on the Barking Sands range on Kau ai. The M1008 was from upstate NY, originally purchased from Fort Drum.