M1009 cucv fuel filter won't prime / bleed

[gimpyrobb]

I have filter kits if you want to replace your stock one.

 

[doghead]

Yes, it looks wet which indicates it is leaking.

Some members have removed the sensor and use a freeze plug(iirc).

That may be your problem with bleeding it now.

 

[dpaulus]

It sounds liked filling the sensor hole should be the first step since the sensor is wet, everything worked before opening the filter, and there were no fuel leaks at the base before. Do you think I should test it to make sure the sensor hole is were it is sucking air (not letting it prime) before drilling and tapping? Maybe jb-weld or RTV, or are those prone to leak anyway so just go ahead and tap/bolt it?

I found the thread with Markg's tap and bolt: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?111372-Intermittent-air-leak

Do you recall the if it was a 1/4-20 bolt / tap? I wonder if I can just tap it in place without removing the base?

After disconnect the sensor from the wire harness, do you need to do anything else, or just let the harness hang there not sending?

 

[doghead]

You do not need or use the sensor. It is used only if you have the military specific test equipment that most of us will never own or need.

You can't fill that area(to help a leak), it is sucking air in, if it is leaking, and that is what stops you from getting a solid stream of fuel.

I recall someone removing the base, so they could lay it flat and using JB Weld.

I think the drill/tap idea sound effective, or using a freeze/expansion plug.

Maybe an oring just needs to be replaced, to seal it. (I think they have an O-ring).

Mine has never leaked, so I have not had any issues like this. (Many others have though)

 

[dpaulus]

Can I use a squeeze bulb or other fluid pump on the output tube to fill the filter / manual prime? Will it come up through the lift pump?

 

[dependable]

You can pressurize fuel tank with compressed air as mentioned in previous post. Open bleed valve at top of fuel filter base. Fuel should flow in that direction though lift pump.

 

[truck1]

Upgrade to spin on filter, add drain valve and hose, fill spin on filter with fuel, open bleeder and crank away. Should expel air first then fuel . Shut bleeder and it should start. Easy upgrade.

 

[dpaulus]

Thanks for all the advice. I tried to plug the small fuel port that went to the pressure sensor with a 3/16" self tapping screw. Made the threads, removed, Teflon taped it, and rethreaded for a really tight fit.

Pressurized the fuel tank with compressor, and the filter leaked. If going the bolt route, I'll have to really tap the hole.

several folks recommended the expansion/freeze bolt. O'reillys did not have anything smaller than 3/4". Did you all use the expansion bolt in the 1.35" diameter hole. It looks like a 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 expansion plug would work if it wasn't so deep. Did you have to cut it to make it fit?

Thank you again for all the help. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

 

[markg]

Thanks for all the advice. I tried to plug the small fuel port that went to the pressure sensor with a 3/16" self tapping screw. Made the threads, removed, Teflon taped it, and rethreaded for a really tight fit.

Pressurized the fuel tank with compressor, and the filter leaked. If going the bolt route, I'll have to really tap the hole.

several folks recommended the expansion/freeze bolt. O'reillys did not have anything smaller than 3/4". Did you all use the expansion bolt in the 1.35" diameter hole. It looks like a 1 1/4 to 1 3/8 expansion plug would work if it wasn't so deep. Did you have to cut it to make it fit?

Thank you again for all the help. I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

i used a fine threaded bolt, dont remember what size. but common. never had a problem with them leaking. ive done lots . make sure you cut it to the right length, or cut the head off the bolt, or use a pipe plug. this is a low pressure system, 5 lbs or so is all the mechanical pump will do. good luck. thanks. mark

 

[doghead]

With a little searching, I found this thread.

Read it all. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?105744-Fuel-filter-base-question&highlight=freeze+plug+fuel+base+plug

And the links in it.

Including this one with the freeze plug fix shown with a picture.http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?42986-Fuel-Filter-Base-Fix

Took me a few minutes to find all this, just had to read through 15 or 20 threads.

 

[dpaulus]

Doghead, Thanks for the links. It looked like a couple people had good luck with the jbweld so I gave it a try first. I'll post how it comes out.

 

[dpaulus]

JB weld seems to be holding fine, but I don't think this was the source of the original air getting in not letting the filter prime.

I think the leak and source of air that would not let the new filter prime was the drain (part # 17 in TM) was not tight enough. Before removing the old filter I opened the drain (with channel locks) just to see it work. Since it's plastic, I hand tightened it back on because I have a tendency to over-tighten and break plastic parts. After seriously tightening it with channel locks, it does not leak anymore.

If it gives me any more trouble, I'm doing the spin-on filter mod.

I learned a ton about the fuel system, and I really appreciate everyone's help.

Thank you all again!!!

 

[dpaulus]

Gimpyrobb, How much is your spin-on filter kit?

 

[markg]

GM had 2 tsb's that covered that filter base, the first was the pressure sensor and the second was the o-ring in the drain plug. ive never had a problem with the latter, for me its always been the pressure sensor. thanks. mark