M1009 Little Red Riding Hood.

[cucvrus]

I can barely tell the difference in the park lamps between LED and standard bulbs. The B/U is the big difference. I am going with LED because of the heat difference and the amperage draw . I may call it a day at this point. I don’t want to over do it and rush into things. I guess the rear gate is next. That is a fun job. I have everything brand new so it will take me a bit longer. Have a Great Day. I also had some other work done this week. Just sharing.

 

[cucvrus]

I was being rained out and needed to take time to work on my project. Rain has me mowing 2 -3 times a week. Slow progress. I picked up some new 7/16” hardware and decided I would attach the hitch. Now I will think about installing the rear bumper.
Have a Great Day. Be Safe.

 

[cucvrus]

Well if it keeps on raining the levees going to break. I wanted to clean up my shop and the first thing I came across was the rear bumper setting on a stand in my way. Why not just do it, it had to go on anyway at some point. I had new bolts and serrated flange nuts all ready. I installed the rear bumper and attached the hitch to the bumper. The hardest part for me is the cotter pins on the clevises.
It looks great and I measured it and it is perfect on both sides. Not my first day. But new fasteners make the job a breeze. I used a 3/8” ratchet with a swivel head. A long handled SnapOn that o had since the 80’s.

Now I am going to clean up the garage V8 and put Al my tools away. It is always a motivator for me when I don’t need to search for everything. I guess the gate is next. Getting to the time of year when it gets hot and I can attempt to have a the windows and new rubbers installed. Take Care. Be Safe.

 

[Sezzo]

Looks awesome!

 

[1love]

Killing Rick! By chance would you know the specs for those serrated flange nuts as mine are rusted to hell?

 

[WWRD99]

Killing Rick! By chance would you know the specs for those serrated flange nuts as mine are rusted to hell?

Killing Rick! By chance would you know the specs for those serrated flange nuts as mine are rusted to hell?

Which nuts are they? Where?

 

[1love]

Which nuts are they? Where?

My apologies, the bumper bolts.

 

[WWRD99]

My apologies, the bumper bolts.

Ahh...he's got buckets of those!! 1/2x13.

Sent from my SM-S906U using Tapatalk

 

[cucvrus]

I am in the process of assembling 3 rear gate cranks and have hit a snag. The black OEM handle I found trapped / entombed under the seat of Little Red when I was disassembling it. With the radio rack in place from the factory the seat could never be folded forward so I assume it was entombed before it left the factory. It has a bit of rub rash on it, and I used steel wool and 400 grit sandpaper to clean and smooth the area. I will touch it up with a spray of flat black. Since I don’t have any more lock cylinders, springs and pawls I ordered a set online my YOT Your Old Truck. Catchy. I have yet to get it to assemble after spending an hour and a half on it. I suspect the spring has too much tension. I went and dug out another crank I had in my parts bin and was surprised to find a key that fit the cylinder and activated the pawl in and out. Fat chance that is the correct coded key, but it works, and I am happy for that. That was parted from a gate I bought at a Youpullit that had no key. It is an OEM GM part. I am going to add a clutch, paint it and use it on my last M1009 I build. I keep keys and many other things that annoy others. But when people need things the come see me. Needful Things. Strange the ignition key fits from an 84 Chevette I bought new. But the CUCV key will not go in the cylinder. I don’t like the old school octagon GM keys that come with the YOT kit, but I was thinking of taking them to a lock smith and getting the cylinder coded for the CUCV. I know some one out there had a bad crank or lock cylinder they are never going to use. It locks and unlocks good enough. I other same year style keys and they don’t work. What are the chances of that?

 

[jmenende]

I am in the process of assembling 3 rear gate cranks and have hit a snag. The black OEM handle I found trapped / entombed under the seat of Little Red when I was disassembling it. With the radio rack in place from the factory the seat could never be folded forward so I assume it was entombed before it left the factory. View attachment 928223 It has a bit of rub rash on it and I used steel wool and 400 grit sand paper to clean and smooth the area. I will touch it up with a spray of flat black. Since I don’t have anymore lock cylinders, springs and pawls I ordered a set on line my MOT My Old Truck. Catchy. View attachment 928224 View attachment 928225 View attachment 928233 I have yet to get it to assemble after spending an hour and a half on it. I suspect the spring has to much tension. I went and dug out another crank I had in my parts bin and was surprised to find a key that fit the cylinder and activated the pawl in and out. Fat chance that is the correct coded key but it works and I am happy for that. That was parted from a gate I bought at a Youpullit that had no key. It is an OEM GM part. I am going to add a clutch, paint it and use it on my last M1009 I build. View attachment 928227 View attachment 928228 View attachment 928229 I keep keys and many other things that annoy others. But when people need things the come see me. Needful Things. View attachment 928230 Strange the ignition key fits from an 84 Chevette I bought new. But the CUCV key will not go in the cylinder. I don’t like the old school octagon GM keys that come with the MOT kit but I was thinking of taking them to a lock smith and getting the cylinder coded for the CUCV. I know some one out there had a bad crank or lock cylinder they are never going to use. View attachment 928231 It locks and unlocks good enough.View attachment 928232 I other same year style keys and they don’t work. What are the chances of that?

I think cucv are keyed alike. If you have one then you can open them all.

 

[cucvrus]

I think cucv are keyed alike. If you have one then you can open them all.

I know that. I don’t have a spare CUCV lock cylinder for the gate. If I did I wouldn’t be in this conundrum. I am going to go out and dig up some more parts and get the new crank and cylinder out for your Wild Weasel. I hope I have better luck with that one. That is a complete LMC set up. I think a stock spring and pawl no will fix my black handle. I know I have some,. My Wife always knew how to find stuff for me. Meanwhile if anyone had any broken cranks with a lock cylinder could you hook me up? Take Care. I guess it time to get dirty at 90 degrees today. Burning daylight.

 

[cucvrus]

I may end up taking these cranks to a lock smith. I cannot get the cylinders to stay in any of the cranks I have. Stock everything except the spring. I have spent a few hours on these 2 cranks and watched videos. I used to do this like brushing my teeth. Almost effortlessly. That was all stock parts. Not sure. I found lots of new GM pawls and clutches, but that little spring is the challenge.

 

[cucvrus]

And then just like that I got it. That spring has more tension than the stock spring and you must basically plunge it in tight against the other wall of the crank. Fell into place. I was really starting to wonder if I was losing my skills. Take Care.

 

[cucvrus]

I am back on the OEM black crank. Maybe that got thrown in the truck on the line because they could not get the cylinder into it. I am going to keep trying but the LMC one went together like nothing.

 

[cucvrus]

I got it. Not sure what the issue was but I was determined and knew I could do it. So now I have 3 completely functional rear window cranks with cylinders installed and everything works on them. 2 of the 3 are brand new. I had to take the Genine GM clutch into the basement and Dremel grind a few burrs from the casting. The Chinese ones were a perfect fit. All is well.