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M1009 roof rack

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
No I like it but for its utilitarian design and rugged / basic equipment. So I spend $35K on a new truck and live happily ever after. But you don't see my new truck doing this.DSCF6487.jpgDSCF6489.jpgDSCF6468.jpgDSCF6472.jpgAnd after my Redneck sound proofing installation all is well at my base camp. sound proofing.jpgLed Zepplin sounds like a symphony inside. DSCF6486.jpgMust be my 50 cal speaker boxes. :) Or maybe it is the pair of NEW Group 31 batteries I have been carrying around. I was going to be looking at an M1010 this AM but that deal fell through. Anyone at Raucsh Creek need some batteries? I did not buy them batteries yet I am just demonstrating them. A test start if you will? See how she runs and what ails the old girl. Have a Great Day and Good Luck. Sorry love the CUCV but the new Silverado rules over the road.
 

redline300

Member
48
1
8
Location
Ocala, Florida
Here's my homemade roof rack. Cost about $120 in materials, half of that being expanded metal for the flooring. Measures 5X7 so I can set up my tent on top when in bear country. The fiberglass roof is surprisingly strong. I used 6 mounting spots evenly spaced next to the boxed section of the "frame". The top doesn't budge a bit with me walking around up top. This past weekend was it's first real test up in Monache Meadows. Going to build an awning that folds up and can be attached on either side for shade.

Can I get the measurements of your rack's mounting spots please? I like the way it looks and am needing someone to fabricate one for me..the cucv is not with me at the moment.
 

Indyharleyguy

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
214
62
28
Location
Carmel IN
Hi All, I'm looking to purchase this on Amazon, ARKSEN 64" Universal Black Roof Rack Cargo with Extension Car Top Luggage Holder Carrier Basket SUV, but am looking for suggestions to mount it. My thought is to use stainless steel you bolts and some aluminum 1/8" thick 1 " wide bars inside the truck and back cap. Would also seal the holes I'm drilling through the front cab and the back fiberglass.
What have others done like this? Pro's or cons?
Thanks
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Don't drill thru the front cab. It is double walled and you will just make a place for major rust and cribbage points. The rear cap is strong enough. When I ran crusher I could pick up a K5 body shell with the fiberglass top and the loader. Different story when the drive line was in. But my point is the rear cap is very strong and solid at the rib points in the roof. I used 3/8? carriage bolts with the carriage end inside. Makes for nice head room. And I just caulked the holes. I made the rack from 2 lower skids from bulk tanks. Freebies. I did have it powder coated once after it started to rust from the inside. Maybe a little late. But it is for visual effect. It did carry a few things. But I thought about the projectile part and thought NO way. i will not put much up there that can pass me on impact. Merry Christmas.
 

Indyharleyguy

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
214
62
28
Location
Carmel IN
Thanks. When you say solid at the rib points in the roof you mean this marked area right? I'm thinking about mounting my spare tire up there for now?
Thanks and Merry Christmas to you also!!
Truck cap 2 marked.jpg
 

charlietango

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
505
20
18
Location
Winnipeg


I carry ladders on mine. Works great but I've chosen to run it down to the body and fully suspend it over the fibreglass shell.
 
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