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M1009 starting problems

REDWOLF

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Went to change my glow plug temp sensor tonight, I had picked up the old style a couple weeks ago. Looks like the government had already changed it over to the new su 102 style. Guess I will be returning this one for the other tommarow.


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REDWOLF

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Went to change my temp sensor tonight, had picked up the old style a couple weeks ago. Looks like the government already changed it to the new su 102 style. Guess I will be exchanging it tomorrow. Hope so, truck is getting harder to start when it is warm out side.

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REDWOLF

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Went out at lunch today and returned the old style temp sensor and picked up the new style one. installed in my truck so know i guess we will see in about two hours when i get off work if that fixed the problem.
 

REDWOLF

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Well still no luck. Drove the truck home, on the road for almost 30 minutes. Shut it off and it will start right back up. Wait thirty minutes and after cranking it three time for a wile she finally stated. Now what? This stinks. Uhg

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REDWOLF

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Ok. Let's do the whole run down from December. Started having problems with the truck starting when it was cold,knew I needed glow plugs but do to money problems I waited. Finally it got to the point it would not start at all, had to get new plugs. Replaced those and installed new female ends on the wires to fit the ac60g plugs. Still took a wile to get it to fire up not like it was before the plugs went bad. Yes I checked them with my ohm meter all but two where bad. At this point it would still start up after it was run and shut down for a wile. But then it started to be hard to start and would not start after it was hot and sat for ten minutes or longer until it cooled of enough to trigger the glow plug light. So sense then I have replaced the lift pump, the glow plug solenoid and now the glow plug thermastat.

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REDWOLF

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M1009 still not starting right

Ok. Let's do the whole run down from December. Started having problems with the truck starting when it was cold,knew I needed glow plugs but do to money problems I waited. Finally it got to the point it would not start at all, had to get new plugs. Replaced those and installed new female ends on the wires to fit the ac60g plugs. Still took a wile to get it to fire up not like it was before the plugs went bad. Yes I checked them with my ohm meter all but two where bad. At this point it would still start up after it was run and shut down for a wile. But then it started to be hard to start and would not start after it was hot and sat for ten minutes or longer until it cooled of enough to trigger the glow plug light. So sense then I have replaced the lift pump, the glow plug solenoid and now the glow plug thermastat. <br />
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richingalveston

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when cranking to start, have you cracked the injectors to verify you have fuel. Also have you run a bypass wire to the glowplugs and heated them manually.

you have a fuel or a glow plug problem, determine which first. If no fuel spitting at injectors then you must fix that first.

Once you have fuel, you need to build a manual bypass for the glow plugs and try to manually heat them and do not rely on any of the relays or controller card.

Get fuel first.
 

jeffhuey1n

SMSgt, USAF (Ret.)
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It sounds like a problem I had. All the same symptoms. After many tribulations I narrowed it down to the fuel filter. If you have one of the POS rectangular stock fuel filters, there may be a hairline crack, which causes fuel pressure prime to drop and you cannot start the engine except thru some very serious blue language. When the assembly gets warm, the crack seals allowing you to restart the engine. The only fix I know of is replace the filter assembly (base and filter). FYI, the Dodge M880 box filter is similar but won't work on the CUCV. My fix was go to junk yard and find an aftermarket fuel filter system (pre-filter and filter) off a wrecked 1985 or 1986 Suburban. I did not use the pre-filter, it's sitting in a box in the barn. The filter "base" accepts standard round spin on fuel filters and bolts to the firewall in the exact same position as the stock filter. I can't remember the maker of the filter, nor am I able to take pics right now but once I'm able, I'll post them. I may even have one of the spin on mounts, aka base. Once I replaced the filter assembly, I haven't lost prime in over 2 years. Even had the M1009 sitting for 6 months. Got in, turned the key on, let the glow plugs warm up and she's starts up after only 2-3 cranks. FYI, I did the dog "head something or another" mod, replaced all the glow plugs, replaced all rubber hoses that I could find, replaced the mechanical fuel pump, spliced in an electrical fuel pump and replaced the circuit card. Also pulled the fuel tank, cleaned same, ensured fuel sending unit worked correctly, replaced filler neck hose and vent hose... There's more but I can't remember all the repairs I made. Suffice it to say, I put a bunch of money into that rolling money sucking pot hole on wheels before I got it all done up right. Next step will be to get the suspension up to snuff but that's another story...
 

REDWOLF

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This Saturday morning I plane to unhook the batteries and doing a load test on them. Then test all the plugs with my ohm meter then try to test the wires to each to make sure they are getting power. I have noticed here lately sense i replaced the glow plug thermastat and with the little cooler mornings we have been having that the longer the wait light is on the better it starts. Still will not start after it is warmed up with no wait light. ?

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PJL

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I ended doing just that. The glow plug system is completely in stock configuration. Would not start after sitting warm about 30 minutes. I added the button to warm the plugs when the controller does not. 10 seconds and it lights right up.
 

REDWOLF

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Well tested batteries, they are good. Tested glow plugs they are good. Also need to make sure the glow plugs are all getting power to them when the light is on. Not sure how to do this by myself.Still need to test to see if I am getting fuel to the injectors, hard to do by yourself.

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richingalveston

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If you have a test light with some wire you can check the plugs. Unplug the wire from plug. connect test light clip end to the green wire. make a ground wire and extend it to the test light probe which you clamp in a place where you can see it when operating the ignition.

if you loosen an injector line prior to trying to start. go turn over for about 30 seconds. (remove pink wire from IP before doing this) The injector will be wet if it is getting fuel. Tighten it back up and do 7 more times for each injector. Not wet, no fuel.

If no fuel unplug fuel line at pump and put in bucket. go crank starter. No fuel then keep working toward the tank. Have fuel then you have injector pump problem.
 

REDWOLF

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All this started after all but two of the glow plugs went bad. could those being bad messed up the glow plug card? i have replaced everything but that on the electrical side. Before that the truck would start right up like it should.
 

cucvrus

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Can you see the volt meter drop when the wait lamp is on? I could have fixed or diagnosed all this at Conowingo. I am sorry you have these issues. But I am still think if not glow plugs injection pump. That is my guess from afar. Wish I could have seen the CUCV at the river.
 

REDWOLF

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Volt meter does not work. So no luck there. Yes i should have just came down to the river that day instead of trying to fix it. I have waisted to saturdays trying to figure this thing out with no luck CUCVRUS.
 
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