M1078 LMTV Fix-up Thread

CallMeColt

Well-known member
482
287
63
Location
Wilson County, Texas
Howdy,

Going to start another one of my fix-up threads to document what I do to my recently purchased 1998 M1078 LMTV!

119791988_10157245426745919_1497524990751630231_o.jpg

Got it with the trailer for a very good deal. Drove it home with no problems except it being a slug compared to my Super Duty.

Has ~11,500 miles. Overall very clean for what it is. Has a clean Texas title.

Haven't dug in to deep on it yet but have found a few things that need to be repaired. Spent some time today making that metal list while cleaning out the cab & beds.

The tarp is in okay shape. Was left with the rear flap not rolled up properly so it was tattered beyond repair. I cut what was left of the rear flap off & realigned the tarp, rolled the rest of it neatly & tightened it down.

Found a few spare parts in the storage bins along with the operators TM.

My goal this week is to get it insured, inspected, & registered so I can start being that guy in town driving around in an old military truck for no reason.

Will share a video overview of the truck & trailer once I make it.
 

Reworked LMTV

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,275
715
113
Location
TN
Congrats and welcome Colt! You will love this truck.

PSA Please get your driveshafts balanced immediately. These drive lines left unbalanced, do $$$ serious damage to your truck. Search for those horror stories on this site. Tell the driveshaft place that this is not a commercial truck, just a hobby. They may cut the price a bit, mine did. The engine can be turned up to produce more power.

Take a look at the Awesomeness's links to general problem areas of the truck.

Again Welcome!
 

CallMeColt

Well-known member
482
287
63
Location
Wilson County, Texas
Congrats and welcome Colt! You will love this truck.

PSA Please get your driveshafts balanced immediately. These drive lines left unbalanced, do $$$ serious damage to your truck. Search for those horror stories on this site. Tell the driveshaft place that this is not a commercial truck, just a hobby. They may cut the price a bit, mine did. The engine can be turned up to produce more power.

Take a look at the Awesomeness's links to general problem areas of the truck.

Again Welcome!

Are there any signs that the driveshafts aren't balanced?

Will look up Awesomeness.

Thanks!
 

Reworked LMTV

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,275
715
113
Location
TN
Are there any signs that the driveshafts aren't balanced?

Will look up Awesomeness.

Thanks!
Unfortunately not always. Do not cheap out on this one.
Here is a list of some of the damages:
1. Cracked engine block.
2. Broken alternator bracket
3. Cracked trans bell housing

and the list goes on and on.....
 
Last edited:

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,298
1,748
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Congrats !

Good walk thru. Looks like a solid truck. Just random thoughts:

Either go to two batteries or four, but they all have to match.

Someone on here sells the rebuild o-ring kits for the hydraulic pumps.

Glad hand cover on the rear just needs new rubber inserts/gaskets (Amazon or any truck place, super cheap so grab some spares since you will be using the connections).

*side note: Might check the rear swing arm bushings. It appears the lowers are intact so I'd guess the previous owner may have replaced them? Check the uppers as well.

We've a guy who sells custom metal grills.

*side note: When you pull your door handles to get the locks keyed, replace ALL the little plastic ends internal to the door lock and latch rods. Someone recently posted the civilian version (at about .20 cents ea or something) over on the lmtv Facebook group. But trust me, that is the time to do them.

If your CTIS is in fact dead, check out the thread on here about the Arduino CTIS replacement. An improvement over the OEM for a fraction of the cost.

There's a fellow on here who sells the membrane for the trans shifter select buttons.

*side note: You will want to make the missing flat bows for the troop cover. They will keep it from pooling water and flapping around while driving. Very simple to make and will really help the cover last.

The loose wire with two leads near the hydraulic pump goes to a (missing) switchbox used to let troops/passengers in the back buzz the cab.
 

CallMeColt

Well-known member
482
287
63
Location
Wilson County, Texas
Congrats !

Good walk thru. Looks like a solid truck. Just random thoughts:

Either go to two batteries or four, but they all have to match.

Someone on here sells the rebuild o-ring kits for the hydraulic pumps.

Glad hand cover on the rear just needs new rubber inserts/gaskets (Amazon or any truck place, super cheap so grab some spares since you will be using the connections).

*side note: Might check the rear swing arm bushings. It appears the lowers are intact so I'd guess the previous owner may have replaced them? Check the uppers as well.

We've a guy who sells custom metal grills.

*side note: When you pull your door handles to get the locks keyed, replace ALL the little plastic ends internal to the door lock and latch rods. Someone recently posted the civilian version (at about .20 cents ea or something) over on the lmtv Facebook group. But trust me, that is the time to do them.

If your CTIS is in fact dead, check out the thread on here about the Arduino CTIS replacement. An improvement over the OEM for a fraction of the cost.

There's a fellow on here who sells the membrane for the trans shifter select buttons.

*side note: You will want to make the missing flat bows for the troop cover. They will keep it from pooling water and flapping around while driving. Very simple to make and will really help the cover last.

The loose wire with two leads near the hydraulic pump goes to a (missing) switchbox used to let troops/passengers in the back buzz the cab.
Thank you for the information!!!

I was thinking of going with 4 Optima batteries & using the adapter plates so they will fit properly. Here's a link;
http://www.realcustomtrucks.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=2420046x4
What do you think? It has some note on the page about not using the Optima's in tactical vehicle starting applications, only generators & non-tactical. The Optima's have a higher CCA rating than the 6TL's. Odd to me. I have always had great luck with the Optima's in everything I own. South Texas is hot & dry so the sealed battery lasts much longer here.

My other option was to go with these;
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7256?intent=true

Any idea who here on the forum sells the rebuild kit for the hydraulic pump? I will try to search just that but I'm sure a bunch of threads will pop up.

Found a brand new gland cover for the rear in the truck when I cleaned it in OD green. :)

I'm going to look up the LMTV Facebook group to see what information I can soak up on there as well. The door handle bushings is a good tip.

I did see a few threads about the Arduino CTIS replacement. I also so the manual & electric/manual ones as well. Once I dive into that more, I will make a choice because I do want it to work for trips to my off grid place.

Didn't know there was anything missing from the bows! Will need to look at the TM & see what ones are missing to come up with them.

I also found a new button cover for the gear selector when I cleaned the truck out. :)

Ah yes, the troop buzzer. I did read about that. Makes sense!
 
Last edited:

CallMeColt

Well-known member
482
287
63
Location
Wilson County, Texas
Alright so after doing some more looking on the batteries, I see what the major difference is... the reserve capacity. The Optimas are significantly less. So, I'm thinking that going with the proper 6TL batteries will be my best bet.

6TL AGM batteries are way to much!

NAPA has a 20% off coupon code online right now. I can order 4 & get them for $700 before taxes. Not bad.

The batteries in the truck are good so I'd hate to turn them in for the core charge but it is what it is!
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
1,298
1,748
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Thank you for the information!!!

I was thinking of going with 4 Optima batteries & using the adapter plates so they will fit properly. Here's a link;
http://www.realcustomtrucks.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=2420046x4
What do you think? It has some note on the page about not using the Optima's in tactical vehicle starting applications, only generators & non-tactical. The Optima's have a higher CCA rating than the 6TL's. Odd to me. I have always had great luck with the Optima's in everything I own. South Texas is hot & dry so the sealed battery lasts much longer here.

My other option was to go with these;
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBP7256?intent=true

Any idea who here on the forum sells the rebuild kit for the hydraulic pump? I will try to search just that but I'm sure a bunch of threads will pop up.

Found a brand new gland cover for the rear in the truck when I cleaned it in OD green. :)

I'm going to look up the LMTV Facebook group to see what information I can soak up on there as well. The door handle bushings is a good tip.

I did see a few threads about the Arduino CTIS replacement. I also so the manual & electric/manual ones as well. Once I dive into that more, I will make a choice because I do want it to work for trips to my off grid place.

Didn't know there was anything missing from the bows! Will need to look at the TM & see what ones are missing to come up with them.

I also found a new button cover for the gear selector when I cleaned the truck out. :)

Ah yes, the troop buzzer. I did read about that. Makes sense!
I run Optimas in my pre-runner and sand rail. They've always been good to me, but I've never looked into it. There are tons of battery options, though.

I'll see if I can find the link to the rebuild kits.

Here's what the bows look like (just flat stock with a section of tubing welded on the ends that slide onto the frame). Normally there are only 4 ribs but I find that 6 prevents water pooling much better).
 

Attachments

CallMeColt

Well-known member
482
287
63
Location
Wilson County, Texas
I run Optimas in my pre-runner and sand rail. They've always been good to me, but I've never looked into it. There are tons of battery options, though.

I'll see if I can find the link to the rebuild kits.

Here's what the bows look like (just flat stock with a section of tubing welded on the ends that slide onto the frame). Normally there are only 4 ribs but I find that 6 prevents water pooling much better).
The Optima batteries I like a lot because in my experience flooded batteries don't last long as all here.

I found the rebuild kit in another thread;
https://www.mrosupply.com/tools/hydraulic-tools/1972684_spx-300140_spx-power-team/
Will order that & just go through the entire thing. Maybe get the single internal seal that seems to be the weak point.

Thanks for the pictures of the bowes. That looks easy.
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,668
828
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
For battries I use 4 group 24F and got them from Interstate batteries . am cheap and get the blems for 27.99 each plus a core. Haven't had an issue.
agree.... even if you spend for new instead of reconditioned at about 100 bucks each for similar at walmart.... they fit good and do you well for a long time. Money saved can go to other parts of the reconditioning the truck

UPDATE- day late...... see your getting the 6tl's. They will last little longer likely though.
 

CallMeColt

Well-known member
482
287
63
Location
Wilson County, Texas
agree.... even if you spend for new instead of reconditioned at about 100 bucks each for similar at walmart.... they fit good and do you well for a long time. Money saved can go to other parts of the reconditioning the truck

UPDATE- day late...... see your getting the 6tl's. They will last little longer likely though.
Hopefully they'll last many years. Also makes it so they will be secure in the battery box as I plan to do some off road with it. It was a plus that I can have them in hand & installed today as well.

On hold with Progressive to get it insured as I type this. Hopefully will get that done & inspection today so Monday I can get it registered & start having some fun. :)

EDIT: Need to wait until Monday for insurance. USAA has a partnership with Progressive but USAA needs to be on the line with me & Progressive at the same time. The folks that do that at USAA don't work on the weekends. hopefully that will save me some money.
 
Last edited:

CallMeColt

Well-known member
482
287
63
Location
Wilson County, Texas
Okay, I ghosted for a few days... but got some things done!

Ended up having to wait until Monday to get insurance setup. Went through USAA Agency to setup my policy with Progressive. Hopefully it saved me money because it took almost 3 hours on the phone bouncing between people to get it setup! But in the end, I paid my policy in full for a year.

Got my batteries in. Took me longer than expected but installed them all. Took my time as the the cables were all catty-wompus from the wrong batteries being in there. The slave sables were hooked up wrong as well, glad no one tried to use the slave port! Had to modify the battery hold down a little due to the differences in the handles of the batteries I got. The little tab kept it from holding them right. Hard to explain but I documented it & will share later.

Put new wiper blades, bent center wiper arm back, one new sprayer hose, & have one sprayer on order. Took me a while to find that part number but I did! Dorman 924-5504. Should be in today.

Fixed an air leak at the valve that is by the air dryer. Took it apart, cleaned it, & put a small bead of gasket maker.

Replaced the reverse light bulbs. two pack of 93's.

Found a stuck relay for the rear hazards. Went to pull it & the cover came off... started to work. Have spares on their way here. I just ordered some cheap ones from Amazon... a 5 pack of 12v & of 24v.

Tightened down the mirrors so they won't move on the highway.

Ordered a new coolant overflow bottle that was complete because it has a small drip from the lower sight glass & the cap leaks a little.

Ordered the SPX rebuild kit for the air operated hydraulic pump since it spews fluid when used. It's on back order but that's fine... 4-6 weeks. Wasn't going to do it right away anyways. Also got an inline oiler for the air line going to the pump. Read a few places on here that it will help keep that seal from going bad. I got it very cheap as a new old stock so I'll just install it when I rebuild & hopefully never do it again.

Took today off from work to go get it inspected & registered... wish me luck! I know it needs some other stuff done to it before I drive it a lot but I just want it legal & in my name before I go much deeper.
 

CallMeColt

Well-known member
482
287
63
Location
Wilson County, Texas
Go figure, jumped in the start it up the morning to check & see if my air leak repair held... not getting any parking lights! It's still dark so I'm going to go look at the relays & tap them. Really hope it's something dumb as I want to get it registered today!

Also, the headlights are garbage, haha. They do work though. An LED upgrade is going to be a must.

Tonight I may check the backout lights. Really hoping there good as I have night vision & a lot of property & do plan to drive blackout with it.

UPDATE: Swapped some of the blackout relays with the parking lights & they're back working. The only ones not on are the front signal lights. Do they not turn on when the parking lights are on? Only flash?
 
Last edited:

coachgeo

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,668
828
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
Go figure, jumped in the start it up the morning to check & see if my air leak repair held... not getting any parking lights! It's still dark so I'm going to go look at the relays & tap them. Really hope it's something dumb as I want to get it registered today!

Also, the headlights are garbage, haha. They do work though. An LED upgrade is going to be a must.

Tonight I may check the backout lights. Really hoping there good as I have night vision & a lot of property & do plan to drive blackout with it.

UPDATE: Swapped some of the blackout relays with the parking lights & they're back working. The only ones not on are the front signal lights. Do they not turn on when the parking lights are on? Only flash?
pretty sure blinkers only work when you have it at stop light or beyond
 

Asymair95

Active member
111
43
28
Location
Hudson Valley NY
Moving the lower left lever all the way down turns the parking lights on and the headlights off. Of course the service lights have to be turned on with the top lever for this to work.
 

CallMeColt

Well-known member
482
287
63
Location
Wilson County, Texas
Thanks for the responses!

Yes, the lights were already on. I know the other stuff doesn't work without the service lights on as to not cause an issue when light discipline is needed.

Will dig in more later. Inspection went fine. :)
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks