M1083 crank no start, looking for a Mechanic to help me get it started

[Ronmar]

Exactly what jump are you referring to? Because of this very confusion is why I only recommend “jumping” after I am positive the normal power is not available. Incorrect or unnecessary Jumping is how shit gets burnt up…

Gave you info on places to look and you never responded…

one last try:
Do you have 24v to pin 30 of relay K19?

if not, it comes from CB 79 in the panel, find out why.

if you do, insert a 5 pin relay and go see if you have 24v on the start solenoid on the governor. Wire labeled TL28 If not, find the break between solenoid TL28 and K19. If low voltage, find the bad/weak connection limiting the voltage under load.

If you have power on TL28, check the opposite solenoid terminal for a low resistance path to ground. Then check solenoid coil resistance(dont recall the spec).

like I described to chucky you can remove both solenoid terminal connections and connect 24v and ground to the solenoid terminals to power it.

lost track of how much burnt up crap and secondary issues I have seen from people hacking/bypassing installed wiring…

good luck…

 

[Third From Texas]

Exactly what jump are you referring to? Because of this very confusion is why I only recommend “jumping” after I am positive the normal power is not available. Incorrect or unnecessary Jumping is how shit gets burnt up…

Gave you info on places to look and you never responded…

one last try:
Do you have 24v to pin 30 of relay K19?

if not, it comes from CB 79 in the panel, find out why.

if you do, insert a 5 pin relay and go see if you have 24v on the start solenoid on the governor. Wire labeled TL28 If not, find the break between solenoid TL28 and K19. If low voltage, find the bad/weak connection limiting the voltage under load.

If you have power on TL28, check the opposite solenoid terminal for a low resistance path to ground. Then check solenoid coil resistance(dont recall the spec).

like I described to chucky you can remove both solenoid terminal connections and connect 24v and ground to the solenoid terminals to power it.

lost track of how much burnt up crap and secondary issues I have seen from people hacking/bypassing installed wiring…

good luck…

I suspect that he's thinking back to this part expecting you to post a drawing of the specifics...

Cant get to my drawings till this evening, but I can tell you where to put a jumper in the panel to power the run solenoid on the governor. That should allow the engine to start.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

The video posted on the FB site seemed like he had no compression on the motor for it to start. or only the starter was turning and not engaging the flywheel

 

[Ronmar]

I suspect that he's thinking back to this part expecting you to post a drawing of the specifics...

Yes, jumping IN the panel. That statement was made when he posted pics of a panel minus diode modules. I was mis remembering the run solenoid/start inhibit circuit using a diode. He put in diode modules and I clarified that was not an issue and tried to show him where to look for run solenoid power to figure out what is wrong/missing

it really doesnt need a drawing, CB79-K19-solenoid-ground…

 

[Guerrillaco]

Exactly what jump are you referring to? Because of this very confusion is why I only recommend “jumping” after I am positive the normal power is not available. Incorrect or unnecessary Jumping is how shit gets burnt up…

Gave you info on places to look and you never responded…

one last try:
Do you have 24v to pin 30 of relay K19?

if not, it comes from CB 79 in the panel, find out why.

if you do, insert a 5 pin relay and go see if you have 24v on the start solenoid on the governor. Wire labeled TL28 If not, find the break between solenoid TL28 and K19. If low voltage, find the bad/weak connection limiting the voltage under load.

If you have power on TL28, check the opposite solenoid terminal for a low resistance path to ground. Then check solenoid coil resistance(dont recall the spec).

like I described to chucky you can remove both solenoid terminal connections and connect 24v and ground to the solenoid terminals to power it.

lost track of how much burnt up crap and secondary issues I have seen from people hacking/bypassing installed wiring…

good luck…

Good day and thank you for your help I will check the voltage in the morning as the truck is not close to me. I will report back I honestly just do not want to burn anything up. I will start with the suggested relay and fuses first

 

[Guerrillaco]

Exactly what jump are you referring to? Because of this very confusion is why I only recommend “jumping” after I am positive the normal power is not available. Incorrect or unnecessary Jumping is how shit gets burnt up…

Gave you info on places to look and you never responded…

one last try:
Do you have 24v to pin 30 of relay K19?

if not, it comes from CB 79 in the panel, find out why.

if you do, insert a 5 pin relay and go see if you have 24v on the start solenoid on the governor. Wire labeled TL28 If not, find the break between solenoid TL28 and K19. If low voltage, find the bad/weak connection limiting the voltage under load.

If you have power on TL28, check the opposite solenoid terminal for a low resistance path to ground. Then check solenoid coil resistance(dont recall the spec).

like I described to chucky you can remove both solenoid terminal connections and connect 24v and ground to the solenoid terminals to power it.

lost track of how much burnt up crap and secondary issues I have seen from people hacking/bypassing installed wiring…

good luck…

okay this morning I went to the truck and tested the 30 pin on the relay and I'm getting 24.2 volts on the fuse I'm also seeing 24.2 volts.

 

[Ronmar]

Good, so the power comes from the fuse, to pin 30 on K19. It goes thru the relay and out pin 87A, which is why the relay must have 5 pins, as a 4 pin doesn't have pin 87A.

From 87A it goes to the terminal on the run solenoid, so with a relay installed you should see the same 24v on TL28 at the solenoid down on the governor…

 

[Guerrillaco]

Good, so the power comes from the fuse, to pin 30 on K19. It goes thru the relay and out pin 87A, which is why the relay must have 5 pins, as a 4 pin doesn't have pin 87A.

From 87A it goes to the terminal on the run solenoid, so with a relay installed you should see the same 24v on TL28 at the solenoid down on the governor…

hmm I understand everything except where to trace tl28 I believe that's a main wire. where would this wire be located and is it easy to locate?

 

[Ronmar]

On the left of the engine you will find the governor, right above the air compressor near the front. On the back side of the governor is the start solenoid. Its the only thing on the governor with wires attached. You should find one of the wires labeled TL28 on an aluminum cable band…

 

[Guerrillaco]

On the left of the engine you will find the governor, right above the air compressor near the front. On the back side of the governor is the start solenoid. Its the only thing on the governor with wires attached. You should find one of the wires labeled TL28 on an aluminum cable band…

I have another question as well when starting the vehicle should the fan move as well while cranking? I also removed the batteries to charge them individually as I'm not able to get it to crank anymore it just clicks

 

[Ronmar]

The fan is air controlled. Removing air engaged it, so if the tanks are empty, yes the fan will be engaged until the compressor fills them…

even if you have air, the bearing drag will cause the fan to rotate and move a fair bit of air…

 

[Guerrillaco]

The fan is air controlled. Removing air engaged it, so if the tanks are empty, yes the fan will be engaged until the compressor fills them…

even if you have air, the bearing drag will cause the fan to rotate and move a fair bit of air…

well I think my motor might have bit the dust today the mechanic came by pull the valve cover off notice that nothing was moving however we can see the flywheel spinning so I'm not a mechanic or anything and this does not sound like it's going to be cheap

 

[Ronmar]

well I think my motor might have bit the dust today the mechanic came by pull the valve cover off notice that nothing was moving however we can see the flywheel spinning so I'm not a mechanic or anything and this does not sound like it's going to be cheap

Bad timing gear? definitely not good, sorry to hear that…

 

[Guerrillaco]

Bad timing gear? definitely not good, sorry to hear that…

I'm not sure if it's a bad time in gear or what I'm on the hunt right now for a new motor just in case any suggestions? and what year is acceptable or would it be cheaper to just have the motor rebuilt?

 

[Ronmar]

I'm not sure if it's a bad time in gear or what I'm on the hunt right now for a new motor just in case any suggestions? and what year is acceptable or would it be cheaper to just have the motor rebuilt?

Depends on where you are at and what is wrong. The cam is driven by the timing gear, so if the front pully/ fan is turning, it is a problem in the gearcase up front…

it depends on if it is an interference or non interference design(question for a cat mech or rep). If non interference it may only need parts in the front timing case…

 

[Guerrillaco]

Depends on where you are at and what is wrong. The cam is driven by the timing gear, so if the front pully/ fan is turning, it is a problem in the gearcase up front…

it depends on if it is an interference or non interference design(question for a cat mech or rep). If non interference it may only need parts in the front timing case…

good day well I have good news and bad news I look at this as good news the mechanic checked everything out and found out Motor is good, flywheel not attached to crank shaft. not sure why the flywheel is not connected however I'll get right to the transmission thank you again for all your help fingers crossed hopefully this works.

 

[Third From Texas]

good day well I have good news and bad news I look at this as good news the mechanic checked everything out and found out Motor is good, flywheel not attached to crank shaft. not sure why the flywheel is not connected however I'll get right to the transmission thank you again for all your help fingers crossed hopefully this works.

I've seen plenty of missing/loose/sheered flywheel bolts discussed in LMTV thread over the years. Never heard of one that was completely freewheeling but I suppose that could happen?

There's a small inspection port that you can access the bolts. I've never popped one open but I should (because it's not uncommon to find a bolt laying in there apparently). Someone here should have the specifics....

 

[coachgeo]

I've seen plenty of missing/loose/sheered flywheel bolts discussed in LMTV thread over the years. Never heard of one that was completely freewheeling but I suppose that could happen?

There's a small inspection port that you can access the bolts. I've never popped one open but I should (because it's not uncommon to find a bolt laying in there apparently). Someone here should have the specifics....

think there was one other one where all the bolts sheared off.... if I remember correctly.

Anyway..... @Guerrillaco your likely going to find past discussions on this topic simply by searching inside this forum for Flywheel bolt or flywheel bolts

 

[Ronmar]

Ok, that kinda explains the fan question…

 

[Guerrillaco]

Ok, that kinda explains the fan question…

I'm just happy it's not the motor. I'm going to look for the link referring to the flywheel bolts. Thanks again for your help.