M1165

[Maxjeep1]

Does simply turning the pump up provide benefit? Does one need to increase the boost or change anything else?

I increased boost and I have a open exhaust and intake… I will have numbers once I get it done and install my boost gauge. I wouldn’t just turn it up without anything else. I have the super 77 turbo upgrade also

 

[jake20]

I have zero power steering. Wheel will not budge. It’s low on fluid and I don’t know what’s in there. Can I add Dex III to it? I don’t think fluid is my problem but it’s a start. Fluid looks clean and filter is good. I have a flat front tire but it should still have some movement in it. I can’t turn wheel a inchView attachment 877796

I’ve been standardizing my truck on Valvoline Max Life ATF. It’s technically dex VI which is backwards compatible with dex III. I did some searching around to make sure it’d be fine and will be draining / filling the power steering system sometime soon, once I figure out the best way to do it. Based on everything I have read, it “should” be fine.

The only component you apparently do NOT want dex VI in is the transfer case, still trying to figure out what to put in there. I’ve already drained and filled my transmission a few times with this stuff and it’s doing just fine.

MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Auto Transmission Fluid (ATF) - Valvoline Global - Valvoline™ Global

Choosing an automatic transmission fluid just got easier. Valvoline™ Full Synthetic MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF, the #1 ATF product, is suitable for use in 95% of vehicles in operation with US registered light duty applications. And now, it’s also recommended for most belt and chain-driven...

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I’ve gotta ask, since the power steering isn’t working, are the brakes feeling strong and is the fan clutch operating properly? Could narrow down the issue based on those results, I’m pretty curious given that steering, brake booster, and fan clutch are all on the same hydraulic system. As you know I’m also fairly new to this, but it’s rewarding as can be to get things working again

 

[jake20]

Oh and another note based on my truck at least, power steering was difficult-ish to move past a certain range while stopped until after my tires were properly inflated. Not sure how it should be but that’s how my truck was. While at proper pressure and driving, wheel can be moved with barely any input lol

 

[Maxjeep1]

I’ve been standardizing my truck on Valvoline Max Life ATF. It’s technically dex VI which is backwards compatible with dex III. I did some searching around to make sure it’d be fine and will be draining / filling the power steering system sometime soon, once I figure out the best way to do it. Based on everything I have read, it “should” be fine.

The only component you apparently do NOT want dex VI in is the transfer case, still trying to figure out what to put in there. I’ve already drained and filled my transmission a few times with this stuff and it’s doing just fine.

MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Auto Transmission Fluid (ATF) - Valvoline Global - Valvoline™ Global

Choosing an automatic transmission fluid just got easier. Valvoline™ Full Synthetic MaxLife Multi-Vehicle ATF, the #1 ATF product, is suitable for use in 95% of vehicles in operation with US registered light duty applications. And now, it’s also recommended for most belt and chain-driven...

www.valvoline.com

I’ve gotta ask, since the power steering isn’t working, are the brakes feeling strong and is the fan clutch operating properly? Could narrow down the issue based on those results, I’m pretty curious given that steering, brake booster, and fan clutch are all on the same hydraulic system. As you know I’m also fairly new to this, but it’s rewarding as can be to get things working again

I can’t say for sure about the brakes because I haven’t been able to drive it. Pedal feels ok. I added lots of fluid and I was able to get movement in the wheel. I jacked it up like Action suggested and I turned it lock to lock 20 times with wheels off of the ground. I think I will be ok and I need to repeat the procedure

 

[jake20]

Yep I’ll be undergoing that procedure sometime soon, will see if it goes any different for me. Need to find the best way to drain it first heh

 

[Maxjeep1]

Yep I’ll be undergoing that procedure sometime soon, will see if it goes any different for me. Need to find the best way to drain it first heh

My system was down a quart probably. Good theft deterrent right now. I took the lever off for the start run switch and it’s almost like a key.

 

[Mullaney]

My system was down a quart probably. Good theft deterrent right now. I took the lever off for the start run switch and it’s almost like a key.

.
That's a heck of an idea!
Maybe even replace the screw that holds it in place with a little knob...
Drop both pieces in your pocket and you have a cheap anti-theft device for sure.

Just need to be sure that you have a spare knob hidden away somewhere in the truck.

 

[Autonomy_Lost]

Unplugging wire 11A helps too.

 

[Maxjeep1]

Unplugging wire 11A helps too.

I probably can’t find 11A lol

 

[Autonomy_Lost]

I probably can’t find 11A lol

It one of the three wires that plugs into the back of the start lever. You can also put a hidden switch in line with 11a.

 

[Maxjeep1]

It one of the three wires that plugs into the back of the start lever. You can also put a hidden switch in line with 11a.

I see, I have that dash panel block off and you have to remove it to get to the wires. M1123 doesn’t have that panel and I did install the Black Dog kill switch that has been perfect. I also thought about getting apple air tag and hide it in my trucks. Cheap insurance


Apple AirTag 4 Pack
https://a.co/d/346A5Cs

 

[jake20]

I can’t recall if I read this in this thread or not, did you adjust your pump timing after it was installed and injector lines hooked up? If so, was it hard to do so with all the hard lines holding the pump?

I could be imagining things so ignore me if so heh

 

[Maxjeep1]

I can’t recall if I read this in this thread or not, did you adjust your pump timing after it was installed and injector lines hooked up? If so, was it hard to do so with all the hard lines holding the pump?

I could be imagining things so ignore me if so heh

I adjusted it off the truck and did it thru the side cover. I marked the pump where I started and where I ended up. I wanted to be able to put it back if I needed to. You can access it thru the top cover and I think that’s the only way you can do it on the truck. I turned it from the 12 o’clock to the 2 o’clock position and that is plenty. I get a little black smoke when I rev it up and I can’t wait to drive it. I want to install boost and EGT gauges before I push it. I will change the oil again also.
I didn’t adjust the timing. I put it in the same position as the other one came off. I did turn the fuel up and I believe I read that it will effect timing a little bit.

 

[jake20]

I considered turning the fuel up in mine but figured it doesn’t really need extra power for my needs. I put my new pump back in slightly advanced just like the old one was, am now wondering if there’s any real good purpose to doing so or if I should just re-adjust to dead center the timing marks. From what I read, advancing reduces the life over time? And of course it’s louder lol

Mine makes a small amount of black smoke when stepping on it as well.

I’d definitely be interested on how an EGT gauge would turn out, I just love gauges heh

 

[Maxjeep1]

I considered turning the fuel up in mine but figured it doesn’t really need extra power for my needs. I put my new pump back in slightly advanced just like the old one was, am now wondering if there’s any real good purpose to doing so or if I should just re-adjust to dead center the timing marks. From what I read, advancing reduces the life over time? And of course it’s louder lol

Mine makes a small amount of black smoke when stepping on it as well.

I’d definitely be interested on how an EGT gauge would turn out, I just love gauges heh

I will take a picture of my timing marks tomorrow. My truck starts up quick and it idles smooth. I think I have it really close but I need to drive it and see what I really have. I was reading somewhere about pushing in the plunger on the side and if it does something it’s right and if it does this it’s wrong. My engine is quite also, well quite for a 6.5…

 

[Maxjeep1]

I opened up my air canister a little bit and air as a clear path now. I wish I could get the air horn out of the center and drill a few holes in it. I took a picture of my timing marks and maybe it will help someone in the future. Not that anything is ever the same but at least you can determine if you are to the right or left of it. I think towards drivers side is advanced and retard to the passenger side. It’s 108 now and I’m done. I have so much to do but I can’t work in this very long.

 

[Maxjeep1]

2 steps forward and 1 step back! I fought the heat and finished my exhaust and heat shields underneath my truck. I start it like I do every day and today my voltage gauge is in the yellow even after 5 minutes and at high idle. I set the throttle lock and I was looking at the tach and it’s not working…. Yesterday everything was fine today not so much! What causes tach not to work? I will start searching TM’s but I would like to know if anyone else has solved similar issues.

 

[Maxjeep1]

What am I doing wrong? This is the data plate for my truck and I can’t find tachometer in it…

 

[jake20]

Based on what I’ve found, tachs are addons for only certain trucks and may be in a different TM. My friend’s m1123 truck came with one but my m1043a2 didn’t. Rough pricing indicated that it’s about $1k in parts to add a tach on if it didn’t come with one.

I think the reason they are put in is to measure hours for trucks that are meant as support and end up idling long times, along with maybe running other accessories like a hydraulic winch.

 

[BKubu]

I can't comment on when they come in a truck, and when they don't, but my M1165A1 has a tach showing 161 hours (and about 1561 miles).