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Which front cross member do you have? One is bolted in, one is riveted in.would you still recommend pulling the engine and transmission at the same time? (LDT motor)
I am about to do this "on my own" with no soldier B, no skid steer, renting a skytrak (telehandler 5.5k),.
should I plan on a one day or week long rental....
Searching got me here (at 3am) so i'm doing my best, but looking for advice.
Great...No, you can take it out as a unit either way, it is just much easier if it un-bolts. I recommend pulling the top of the transmission off and dropping the oil pan if its the riveted one.
Great...
i'd really hate to take the pan off a new motor... uggg..
In my 1988 Air Force M35A2 I had to remove the front springs to get to the bolts. I replaced them with 1/2" stainless steel ones.Even with a bolt in cross member don't you have to remove the front springs at the front to grab the nut at bottom , that's what we ran into in Andy3's
I heard this one on the rumor mill that the GM "SM465" 4 speed transmission with the 1-1/2" input shaft will fit the deuce. I don't know since I never tried it, but you might check it out.Gimp,
sorry to ask, but i'm still trying to find out if the clutch alignment tool from a Chevrolet C40-C70 truck, will work on the LDT 465....
I found that in a search but could never confirm, I thought maybe you've heard this before.
That would be better than a broom handle and electrical/duct tape.Couldn't a guy with a wood lathe (or a metal lathe) whittle up a clutch alignment tool? You just need to provide the pilot shaft and clutch disc spline's minor inside diameter. Hardwood would be best but even pine should work fine. 2 cents.
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