• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M35a2 motor swap

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
number one rule> take the top off the trans, it will come out and go in so much easier and you can fill it with oil also. my HF trans jack is the 2000 lb model and it goes up far enough and will roll out from under the truck also, well worth the $200.

put the transfer in neutral and the inter shaft will turn, no need to roll truck.

don't see why you would need to change the adjustment much unless the clutch was really worn out and even then nowhere near an inch. have someone hold the clutch pedal down and see if you can turn inter shaft to make sure it is all working.
Yeah, hindsight I wish I had bought the bigger Jack back when I bought this one.
I didn't think the Transfer case had Neutral ???
Yeah the adjustment thing is scaring me. Another member asked if I checked the finger hieght as per TM. I didn't realize that. Do the pressure pates normally need adjusting ? I have put many clutches in, including double disk class 8 and aside from the old Macks that used shims I have never had to adjust a pressure plate.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
230
63
Location
OKC, OK
I've used ... the 4x4 across the cab with the come a long. .... It's really pretty easy once you get your method down. Glad to see it's back in.
My method of choice when I am doing one myself is the 4x4 thru the front window and back of the cab and a 1-ton chain hoist. Makes it so much easier to wiggle an jiggle the transmission into place. I have dropped enough transmissions that I can get one out in under an hour.
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
Ok, the plot thickens. Spoke to Illinois auto truck. The pressure plate is NOT user adjustable. It is factory set for the correct application. He double checked the part number on the plate and said it is correct. He is checking the disc as I type this. Fortunately I took really good pics of all the clutch parts before installing for future identification.
The TM prodcedure outlined for adjusting the plate in the TM does not apply fo this plate as it requires special wrenches so there is another
Issue. Can we get a suicide smiley added ?
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
Well we determined the clutch is the correct one. I guess I see how it works when I get it fired up. It does not hit the hub.

Does anyone know which TM covers priming the motor with oil ?
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
Well, with a little help from God, I will have it running today.
I do have a concern though about what to do with the flame heater. Is it worth re installing it ? I see the PO of the motor I bought had it plugged. Opinions ? I think if I reconnect it I will install a shutoff on the fuel line to it. I have to find it in the TM's but it looks like the same basic operation as a Garage space heater with a fuel mist and igniter ??
I read this but my concern was more towards a malfunction of the flame heater and spraying raw fuel into the motor while it's running.
 
Last edited:

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,785
749
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I took mine off, not because I had problems with it, but because others did. I never really had trouble starting mine in the cold, so I felt it wasn't needed. I can always open the pass window and give it a quick shot of starting fluid if I need to.
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
Well it fired right up...no oil pressure. Nothing. I put a mech gauge on it. Nothing. I reprimed it 2 more 2x. Pumped almost 2 gals of oil through it. Nothing. Pulled the oil filter off and cranked it over. Nothing. Re checked the pics I posted in this thread, the tubes are installed correctly. Either the oil pump is bad or there is something broken in the motor that is letting oil dump back to the pan.
Either way I'm done. I will be posting parts for sale after fourth of july weekend. I am cutting this piece of crap up like I should have .
Remember the lesson here, if it does not run when you look at it..then the truck is worth only what scrap value is.
I dumped over 2,000$ into the motor swap plus another 2600$ for the truck. I'll be lucky if I get half that back in parts. Don't buy a non running truck. Period.
 

Rmtaunton

Well-known member
1,510
31
48
Location
Smyrna, ga
Ohhhhh so sorry, you have had a terrible time with this one. I so hope it gets better ,and it could be as simple as an oil pump , wish you the best of luck, god bless
 

FMJ

In Memorial
In Memorial
4,210
37
0
Location
Las Cruces, NM
Sorry, just read more.

Double check the oil pump installation, If you need a pump, I'll send you one, just pay for shipping.
 
Last edited:

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,380
414
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
It is probably something simple yet irritating. Don't give up yet. Remember that it takes nearly 20 seconds running at 6-700 rpm to get oil pressure when there is already oil in the system. Spinning over via the starter motor only nets around 300 rpm. I would crank it and let it run on its own power for a minute or a minute and a half and see. If no pressure then, pull the pan, check your work again, and post a want ad for a used good oil pump from a parts motor. It could also possibly be the pressure regulator on the passenger side of the motor has failed or stuck. Don't give up after doing 95% of the work.
edit: I missed that you did let it run. How long did you run it?
 
Last edited:

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
I let it run 6x at 30 second intervals. After I had reprimed it with almost a gallon of oil I let it go a full minute. Nothing. Yes it has oil. Abut 6 gals in it now with the reprime. I pulled the regulator off. It looks fine and the one piston was loose and the other under tension. I compared it to the one of the old motor and was exactly the same and the plungers moved freely.
I have not been able to get ahold of the guy who sold it to me to see if he swapped the oil pump with the LDS although I was told they are the same anyway. I took very good pictures(in this thread) of the oil pickup install so I would not second guess myself later. I even ordered and waited for new gaskets for the pickup tubes because I like to do stuff right the first and hate doing things twice. Unless the oil pump is either defective or the wrong one, the only other possibility is something let go in the motor and it's dumping the oil pressure somewhere. It's 7:45pm and I am so pissed off I am going outside to rip the pan back off right now. I am not happy. At all.
 

acesneights1

Member
1,449
21
20
Location
CT
Sorry, just read more.

Double check the oil pump installation, If you need a pump, I'll send you one, just pay for shipping.
Thank you. I'm gonna clean out the one off the junk motor. I know it's good because despite the damage the motor had awsome oil pressure. Just wanna flush it out good in case there are any shavings in it.
 
Top