Big Dumb Truck
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- Birdsboro Pa.
Thanks rustystud.
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Actually once you get your transmission out take the top cover off and then take some pictures of the gears and synchro's . This way we can help determine how bad of shape your gear box is in. If it is really toast then you probably would be better off buying a good take out from someone here.While you have your transmission out can you take a measurement and a couple pictures for me? brianp454@yahoo.com
rustystud, you got eagle eyes; I was thinking the gears were all looking pretty clean:Second gear has some severe pitting on it and First gear has some tooth engagement wear also. How long did this truck set without running ? The pitting on the Second gear concerns me. Once the surface hardness has been worn through you will experience rapid tooth wear. I would also check the reverse gear for tooth engagement wear.
I wish I had such skills with the computer, but alas my learning fails short there. If you look closely you will see at the top of the second gear what looks like small pebbles on the face of the teeth. This is called pitting and it's usually caused by water in the oil. It is actually small holes that have been formed by "exploding" water molecules. When the oil gets super hot from normal driving the water that is in the oil will actually explode when it is compressed against the gears. I know, weird science stuff ! Anyway once the surface hardness is worn off then comes accelerated wear.rustystud, you got eagle eyes; I was thinking the gears were all looking pretty clean:
- Can you maybe mark-up a photo (you know, a red circle or something) to show where you see the pitting/ wear?
Yes the rust was caused by water and also the pitting on second gear. But the tooth engagement wear is caused by slamming the first gear into the reverse idler gear and countershaft gear. This is a NON-synchro gear, so you must shift it when the truck is stopped. Do you know how many miles are on this transmission and gear oil ? and how was this transmission maintained ?To keep things on topic I want to say that the wear that I see in this transmission that had gear oil in it is minimal. The rust was most likely caused dy water. The beat up edges on first gear and the reverse gear are from grindind (possibly a synchro) I'm not an expert on this. So over all I would have to say that gear oil worked just fine. On the other hand, I don't know what caused it input shaft bearings to wear out.
I am going to start another thread about my transmission / truck and all of its problems.
I've been thinking since my last post ( I know, thinking what a concept ! ). It would be very helpful if all the long time users of the M35 truck posted what they have been using in their transmissions and how their transmissions have held up. I know many members use something else besides 80/90w gear oil. So how about it Gimpyrobb, Jatonka, Gringletaube, Warthog, Recovery4X4, Patracy, all you others out there.
I have never heard of any additive that could take out a steel bearing. The needle bearings in this transmission are not that small either. You also never use "engine" oil in a manual gear box. The oil is not recommended for the pressures exerted in a gear box.The extreme pressure additives in gear oil have been known to take out the small needle bearings in these transmissions and also affect the synchro operation. That is why the manufacture specifies motor oil. But the truth is most don't get enough miles on them to matter. I have driven my truck 5 day a week for the last three years and it made a huge difference when I switched to 40w motor oil. After a couple months the synchros all started working where before I would have bet money that they were worn out.
I been doing a full maintenance over haul on the deuce. ...............
so here is what I found SHELL SPIRAX A 80W-90 HEAVY DUTY GEAR OIL API GL5 PERFORMANCE it covers everything.In Post 49 there is a link to the "latest and greatest" qualified lubricants you seek. It is too big to post so there is a link.
About testing the first claim at the top is
Notice: The LRI Gear Oil Review Committee has reviewed the submitted test results and hardware against the performance requirements of SAE J2360 standard. It is the opinion of the Committee that based upon the information provided to them, these lubricants would be expected to meet the performance requirements of that standard. It should be noted that inclusion of any product on this list does not imply an endorsement the LRI Review Committee or PRI.
the link is Current QPL Listing – July 15 2015 Version
Shell Spirax is items 281 to 287? Shell synthetic 50W oil and
40W non-detergent motor oil is not in there.