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M35A2 power steering options?

silverstate55

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No holes in any of my 395s, so I don’t know where that myth is coming from...just a little scrubbing on the tread shoulder, but any responsible driver knows the limits of the vehicle and won’t intentionally hold a tire rubbing on a steering arm
 

HanksDeuce

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Prairieville, LA
No rubbing with the Waterloo PS kit on my A2 that runs HEMTT wheels and 16R20 XZL tires. Tons of information can be found at the website in my signature or my build thread listed.
 

cattlerepairman

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That's good to hear, since I'm running the same tires and wheels.

Did you have to adjust the steering stops on the knuckles to keep the tire from rubbing, or are they still in the stock position?
I adjusted the stops - but to allow more angle. The position they were in was unnecessarily restrictive. I have no rubbing or other issues with the kit.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 

290smallcam

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peru,indiana
I've been looking at the HF54 boxes. What model number Should I get. There's different HF54 boxes. I know to get the one with the four mounting holes, not the three holes. Thanks for the help😁
 

deathrowdave

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falmouth, ky
I did a Garrison Power Assist on my A2 years ago . It works beautiful, I was lucky enough to find every piece on a Fire Truck thatvwas being scraped . It was as new for $ 75.00 ! I used 5 ton MultiFuel power steering pump .
 

silverstate55

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I managed to move a bunch of crap away from the side of my Deuce (awaiting clutch replacement) so take a couple of pics upon request. I started off using modified FMTV wheels & adapaters that had a nice offset away from the steering box, but sometime around 2014 or 2015 I installed the steel MRAP wheels that have Zero offset, and Michelin XZL tires, which places them more in contact with steering arm. I have since gotten some nice new Goodyear 395s from Simp5782, and along with a few modifications to the FMTV wheels I’ll install these after the clutch replacement to move the sidewalls away from the steering arm again and not have these issues.

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silverstate55

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Plus the steel MRAP wheels with run-flats weigh over 500-lbs EACH, that’s more than 3,000-lbs just wheels/tires, plus a full-size spare, so nearly 4,000-lbs of steel & rubber...it really chokes the poor multifuel engine. The FMTV wheels are MUCH lighter and my Deuce is happier with them
 

M37M35

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I adjusted the stops - but to allow more angle. The position they were in was unnecessarily restrictive. I have no rubbing or other issues with the kit.
Thanks!
Maybe the stops on mine are adjusted to allow too much angle, because the tire comes within an inch of touching the factory pitman arm. It's hard for me to see how the tire would clear a steering box mounted on the outside of the frame. Unless maybe it mounts higher and farther back than the factory one. That would move it farther away from the tire.
 

7bdiver

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Location
idaho panhandle
I was hoping someone might be able to help me with some info on the stock m35a2 steering box. Looks like a lot of people here have taken them out of their trucks during power steering swaps. I can't find any good schematics or specs on the original unit.

Is the shaft that goes up the steering column one piece with the worm gear inside, or is it split there on the base of the tube? I've never seen one without the tube on it, and basic drawings make it look one-piece.

I want to keep the box, but plan to replace the entire steering column and shaft. Is there a spline going into or out of the box? If so, what's the size? I don't want to have to cut and weld on that shaft if I can help it.

It'd be nice if it were a 3/4-30 or 3/4-48 spline
 

cattlerepairman

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It would be nice if it was splined and removeable, alas, it isn't.
One piece shaft. There is really no way around cutting and welding (preferable: cut and have it splined to fit a u-joint) if you want to replace the steering column/shaft.

Here is a post that specifically deals with shortening the steering shaft. Not sure if that is what you are seeking to do. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/shorten-m35a-steering-shaft.17052/
 

7bdiver

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idaho panhandle
I think I'll go for broke and cut it. I'll do a completely different custom shaft with u-joint up to a new steering wheel that uses common spline. Then I'll have more steering wheel options and be able to take things apart whenever I want. Plus, not have a massive steel shaft pointed at my chest from now on. Idk, that steering column is a bit freaky if you consider a bad front end collision.

I've been really avoiding getting myself into a situation where the truck is down, waiting for parts if I make a mistake, but I think this can be done reasonably quick.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
I think I'll go for broke and cut it. I'll do a completely different custom shaft with u-joint up to a new steering wheel that uses common spline. Then I'll have more steering wheel options and be able to take things apart whenever I want. Plus, not have a massive steel shaft pointed at my chest from now on. Idk, that steering column is a bit freaky if you consider a bad front end collision.

I've been really avoiding getting myself into a situation where the truck is down, waiting for parts if I make a mistake, but I think this can be done reasonably quick.
I should post some pictures of my modified steering gears. I shortened the shaft and welded on a splined coupling. I also modified the steering case to except roller bearings instead of bushings. Now if I can just find the things !
 

deathrowdave

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falmouth, ky
I have done a few early Ford steering columns , very similar design just a huge amount smaller than an M35. I cut the shaft in a lathe , center bore ( drill ) it , taper it to near a point . Do the same to the splined shaft of choice. Add a pin to align the shafts . Weld them together , turn the weld down and you can not determine it was modified . Use caution , this operation is not for an unskilled welder . It’s your life at stake .
 
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