M35A2 transmission problem

[jcolandreo]

Looks like I need a new 4th gear also. This doesn't look right to me . The inside teeth look worn. I found the other parts I need, hope they have a 4th gear.

 

[gringeltaube]

I've never seen a (5th)gear worn out like that...!
Hate to say it - your first pics gave us a preview - the last series confirmed it: that tranny has seen terrible abuse and is not worth repairing IMHO.
Find a takeout, remove top, look inside (you already learned where and how to check for wear and function...) - and save money by not buying single spare parts!

G.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Someone who did not know how to shift has been driving that truck, that trans will give you nothing but problems. If you do decide to replace it check the clutch, willing to bet a six pack it is just as nasty.

 

[jcolandreo]

Well, I already purchased 2 new synchronizers all the gaskets and seals. I located a new shaft, 2nd gear- spur gear w/ keys. The only thing I need now is a new 5th gear. I went through the rest of the trans and everything looks good. None of the gears show any marks or signs of wear. The only thing I an not sure of is if the input shaft is OK where the 5th syncro locks in it's a little shinny on the edges. Pictures taken with my HTC Inspirer mobile phone.

 

[m-35tom]

what you are calling 4th is really 5th. they seem to be very cheap compared to the rest of the gears. the last new one i got was $56 i may still have some new ones if you want call me.
tom

 

[gringeltaube]

..............................The only thing I an not sure of is if the input shaft is OK where the 5th syncro locks in it's a little shinny on the edges....................

At least the dogs on that input shaft really don't look that bad at all -after seeing the ones on the gear I expected these to be in much worse condition...
You might know that in the TM 9-2520-246-34 one can find exact dimensions, tolerances and wear limits for every single part.
Maybe you are lucky and after replacing all mentioned parts (plus bearings I guess...???) it would work OK again.

A good learning experience, anyways!


G.

 

[rlwm211]

You can get that manual and also the parts manual at JatonkaM35s.com

http://www.jatonkam35s.com/DeuceTechnicalManuals/TM9-2520-246-34.PDF

RL

 

[m-35tom]

g. yes the input does not look that bad in picture, but i would like to see it in person to see how parallel the sides are and the condition of the roller race. i discussed that with joe as he is near me, maybe 20 miles?, and i have the bearings etc and can also examine all the other parts so he will have a good trans when he is done.
tom

 

[gringeltaube]

Tom: yes, I thought about that all but didn't want to discourage him any further...
Knowing you I figured you would offer to lend a hand (or both!), given the relative short distance and specially having all the best ingredients right there!

Joe: you are a lucky guy!

You two, keep us posted how this works out!

G.

 

[jcolandreo]

I am still waiting on the last of the parts. John Murry at TNJ Murry said I can pick one of his take out trans for $250.00. I will be near his place in a couple of weeks and planed to stop by anyways. I went there in September, real nice guy. So now I am debating whether to replace the trans and rebuild the one I have now as a spare or just rebuild. I am not discouraged about doing the rebuild. I have a nice little machine shop in my garage, 20 ton press, 9” atlas lathe, mig welder, arc welder, tig welder, oxygen & acetylene tanks, bead blasting cabinet, drill press, air compressor, sanders, grinder, buffers, Parkerizing tank and lots more stuff. I use the shop for building 922r compliant AK-47’s. I am pretty capable with car and bikes but am new to big trucks. I have built a 47 Chevy and 48 Chevy chop-top street rod. My last project was a 1967 BSA old school bobber. It came in 1st Palace for BSA Customs at the 2010 9th Annual British & European Classic Motorcycle Day in Maryland. My biggest obstacles now are time and money, when I have the time I don’t have the money, when I have the money I don’t have the time and lately I haven’t had either. The economy has hit pretty hard at my house, that why I am looking for the cheap but best way to fix this.

gringeltaube, I am a lucky guy. Lucky to find this site and for all the members like Tom, you and others that have been so helpful. You guys are all so knowledgeable about these trucks it has cut my research down to almost nothing. I can't thank all of you enough.

 

[jcolandreo]

Well I got her back together! I ended up rebuilding the transmission I had. A friend of mine Gary at Rockville Motors has a guy working for him that used to build M35 and big-rig transmissions. He looked at the rest of my parts and said they were ok. He told me to make sure I cleaned the inside of the transmission and all the parts really, really, really well. He also said after the first 100 miles I should change the gear oil. I did end up changing all the bearings. I also welded metal back on the shifter fork and reground is back to specks. I can't believe how easy it shifts now. George Kivett at White Owl was a great help. He gave me a great deal on the parts. He stocks most everything and has great prices.

Thanks to everyone for all the help. If anyone needs flat safety glass cut for side windows or windshields I can help you with that.

Thanks again
Joe

It's good to be on the road again!!!

 

[gringeltaube]

.................................It's good to be on the road again!!!

Glad to hear another success story!

G.

 

[cvh20]

Someone requested more pictures, here is what I can find

 

[SeldomSeenSlim]

Quick question for those who have done this. I'm having some trouble with the locknut on the companion flange. Reading the TM it shows the steps in the attached image.

I've removed the cotter pin and the nut refuses to budge. I'm wondering if there is some kind of trick or step that I'm missing. I can put more force on it, but I wanted to make sure there isn't something else I need to clear before cranking on it and breaking something.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have trouble removing them with a hand wrench. If I use an impact, they zing right off. Something about the hammering action to loosen it initially.

 

[gringeltaube]

..................... I can put more force on it, but I wanted to make sure there isn't something else I need to clear before cranking on it and breaking something.

Nothing else... just apply more force - if no impact wrench around.

G.

 

[SeldomSeenSlim]

Thanks fellas. I'll give it another try with a little more persuasion. I don't have an impact wrench. I guess I might as well get one though. I doubt this is going to be the only stuck nut on this truck.

 

[m-35tom]

it 'could' easily require 100 to 125 lbs pull on the end of a 4 ft bar, maybe even more. with the top off put it in 2 gears at once to lock it.

tom

 

[SeldomSeenSlim]

I finally got around to pulling the rest of the transmission apart. If you fellas have any advice on the next steps I'd appreciate it. I've attached a picture of the 4th/5th syncro, which is obviously shot seeing as there's a big chunk missing. The other piece is the 4th gear (I think it's the 4th gear at least. It's the one between 3nd/3rd syncro and 4th/5th syncro. Does that piece look like it might need replaced as well? The initial issue that got me to open all of this up was that, like the OP, I couldn't shift into 4th gear at all. Dead stop on the shifter like something was blocking it.

The other picture is of a bearing (looks like a bearing) that appeared. I don't see anything in the TM about it. It just showed up in the front gear when I was wrestling out the other parts. Disconcerting to say the least. Reminds me of the first time I pulled a Glock lower apart.

I plan on ordering a 4th/5th syncro and new gasket set. Anything else I should inspect closer before placing the order?

Sorry for all the questions. This is the first transmission I've ever opened up.

 

[m-35tom]

the gear you show is 5th and is bad. the rollers you show, there are 14 of them, and it is completely normal for them to fall out, it is the only way when you take it apart. i suspect you need many other parts but the only way you will know is to have someone familiar with the trans inspect each part. at this point a used takeout is going to be cheaper than fixing this one.

tom