• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

M37 Restoration Project - Revived

ab705

Active member
55
165
33
Location
Maine
I'm still working on getting my electroplating setup put together and waiting for a couple of supply items. In the meantime, I'll keep working on various parts of the M37.

My M37 was never equipped with backup lights, and I don't think I'd ever have occasion to use the small "blackout marker light" at the right rear of the vehicle, so I decided to keep the marker light, but convert it to a backup light. Re-purposing the old blackout marker light would maintain the original outward appearance of the vehicle and make it easier and safer to back up at night. I already had an old beat-up marker light, but I found a marker light in excellent condition on eBay for a decent price.

First, I removed the blackout marker lens parts from the light:

parts-removed-from-nos-blackout-light-door-smaller-image.jpg

Then I cut out a piece of a backup light lens from another vehicle and installed it in the blackout marker light 'door' in place of the above pieces.

inside-of-blackout-light-door-with-new-clear-lens-smaller-image.jpg

front-of-blackout-light-door-with-new-clear-lens-smaller-image.jpg

I cleaned and painted the body of the light Marine Corps green outside and white inside to reflect more light.
I installed a bright white 24V LED lamp, sized so that the end of the lamp is at the approximate center of the new lens.

white-inside-nos-light-with-led-bulb-smaller-image.jpg

Here's the finished backup light, ready to install (although that may not happen for a while yet). Note: There is a piece of 1/16" flat, clear polycarbonate in front of the lens, but it isn't apparent in the photo below. I installed the flat piece to make it easier to seal the lens and to keep the front of the lens clean.

blackout-marker-light-with-clear-lens-smaller-image.jpg

Since the M37 never had a backup light, I'll have to make a minor wiring modification. I suppose I could probably design some kind of gearshift-related linkage for a backup light switch, but I might just end up installing a manually operated switch on the dashboard, in which case the switch would have a pilot light to remind me to turn off the backup light after backing up.
 

M813rc

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,235
3,318
113
Location
Near Austin, Texas
That is spiffy!

Now I know what I am going to put on the empty bracket for the blackout light on the M715 I'm rebuilding. “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery”. ;)

I was just wondering if I should leave the bracket empty, which doesn't look aesthetically pleasing, or put something there, and if so, what. The truck has the larger style rear lights with all the b/o lights built in, so a redundant b/o light wasn't the best answer.

Cheers
 

ab705

Active member
55
165
33
Location
Maine
I finally got my electroplating setup working. I'm planning to zinc plate many of the original M37 fasteners, as well as a number of other parts.

Here's a typical batch of rusted bolts. My preferred method of de-rusting fasteners is glass bead blasting, as it's gentler than many other blasting abrasives, but still effective, and it leaves a finish that I like. If glass bead blasting cleans up the fastener nicely and there isn't any deep rust or other damage, I'll generally re-use the fastener, but if it's a torque-to-yield fastener, or if the technical manual says to replace it, I will always replace it with a new fastener of the correct type.

typical-rusted-fasteners-smaller-image.jpg

For plating, I used the "Copy Cad and Zinc Plating" chemicals and "Yellow Chromate Solution" from Caswell Plating and followed the process and safety instructions in the Caswell Plating Manual.

From other reading/research, I also decided to bake the parts immediately after plating to help prevent hydrogen embrittlement, which I have heard is especially important for harder steel parts.

Here are a few photos.

Some headlight mounting bolts right after glass bead blasting.

headlight-mounting-bolts-after-bead-blasting-smaller-image.jpg

The same bolts in the plating solution:

headlight-mounting-bolts-in-plating-bath-smaller-image.jpg

Baking the bolts right after plating:

oven-for-baking-parts-after-plating-smaller-image.jpg

The same bolts hanging up to dry after the chromate conversion coating step:

headlight-mounting-bolts-after-plating-baking-chromating-smaller-image.jpg

Note: I could have added a 'brightener' from Caswell to the plating solution if I wanted a shinier surface, but I prefer this surface treatment, since my theory is that paint will adhere better to this semi-matte surface than a shiny surface, and since it's a military vehicle restoration, most of the fasteners and other parts will end up being painted.

Here are some headlight retaining rings that needed some attention:

headlight-retaining-rings-rusty-smallerj-image.jpg

One of the headlight retaining rings after some straightening and bead blasting:

headlight-retaining-ring-after-bead-blasting-smaller-image.jpg

A couple of the headlight retaining rings after zinc plating and a chromate conversion treatment:

headlight-retaining-ring-after-plating-and-chromating-smaller-image.jpg

WARNING: Be sure to follow all appropriate safety instructions when working with plating chemicals and processes.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks