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M923 receiver/hitch assembly

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
Did you finish this install? Do you have pics at any stage or Before/After?
Never did install it, I didn't like having to tear all of it apart instead of drill a couple holes. It's still sitting behind my shed, I'll end up putting a ready made hitch on eventually.

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Andrmorr

Member
274
7
18
Location
Burlington, NC
I was interested to see it installed vs the other store bought one's ...Since my truck is a dump, it's not an option for me, I'd have to fab one that attaches to the rear of the frame somehow...
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
I was interested to see it installed vs the other store bought one's ...Since my truck is a dump, it's not an option for me, I'd have to fab one that attaches to the rear of the frame somehow...
I don't follow you, what's different about the rear of the frame of the dumps that won't allow a Curt or Draw Tite to clear?

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Andrmorr

Member
274
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Location
Burlington, NC
Mainly talking about Derick's bracket, but inside the rear of my frame is full of the 2 rams and the pivot for the bed...and the rear does not have the bumpers that a M923 has...it can be done, it would just require different mounting/engineering.
 

Bill Nutting

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Chesterfield, Mi.
I put a class five receiver on my 934. If you order one made for a chevy 3500 the width is right on. I fabed some drop brackets and bolted it up to the frame with 6 - 5/8" grade 8 bolts. I bought a drop insert to acheive the correct height for my trailers... Next I will add an electric break control.
 

Bill Nutting

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Chesterfield, Mi.
class 5 hitch

IMG_0679.jpgIMG_0682.jpg
What year 3500. Chassis changed in 88/91 and again in 2001 and again in 2007.5 and again in 2011....
I used a Curt hitch made for a 2007 (NOT 2007.5) Chevy. I dropped the hitch mount 3" and use an insert that drops another 4". This put the ball at the correct height that matched my pick up hitch. I also had to move the glad hand some, but that was no big deal. Sorry I don't have a side view but the ball is right under the Pintle.
 
Last edited:

grendel

Member
536
12
18
Location
Derry, NH
I bought a Curt 15400 off Amazon, 174.00 shipped - 2" receiver with a lot of drop, plus a reinforcing bend on the drop arms. Matches frame width, has good bolt placement. I plan to fit it up shortly, when it warms up a bit.
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
View attachment 659903View attachment 659904

I used a Curt hitch made for a 2007 (NOT 2007.5) Chevy. I dropped the hitch mount 3" and use an insert that drops another 4". This put the ball at the correct height that matched my pick up hitch. I also had to move the glad hand some, but that was no big deal. Sorry I don't have a side view but the ball is right under the Pintle.
Simple and effective idea, did you put more than just those 2 bolts where those 2 pieces of angle overlap?

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161
2
18
Location
Argyle MI
This is mine built completely by me save the reciever tube. I purchased a standard 2" x 12" weld on one and trimmed to suit. I had to trim the channel to miss the glad hands and holes for the wiring. But I think it came together well. It fastens to all the existing frame bolts.


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big block 88

Member
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17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
There is some good fab work here guys. My only gripe is i am seeing (in my opinion) hardware that is much to small for the purpose of somthing that will pulled and pushed on and of the trailer is heavy enough those torsion forces multiply quick on big long drop stingers
 

Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
There is some good fab work here guys. My only gripe is i am seeing (in my opinion) hardware that is much to small for the purpose of somthing that will pulled and pushed on and of the trailer is heavy enough those torsion forces multiply quick on big long drop stingers
Good point! Those bolts on the last ones are grade 5! All frame and suspension bolts should be grade 8.

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Ford Mechanic

Active member
1,805
6
38
Location
Edenton, NC
This is mine built completely by me save the reciever tube. I purchased a standard 2" x 12" weld on one and trimmed to suit. I had to trim the channel to miss the glad hands and holes for the wiring. But I think it came together well. It fastens to all the existing frame bolts.


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Looks great! But please put some grade 8 hardware in place of those bolts.

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161
2
18
Location
Argyle MI
Those are only for mockup I used fine thread grade 8 bolts with flange lock nuts for final assembly. I tested it yesterday and it never flinched. Pulled 20,000 lbs through the mud.

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big block 88

Member
862
17
18
Location
Topeka/Kansas
No kidding the bracing work must be working well to hold it that way.

Never questioned the fab work sir, just the hardware. I see you posted you used grade 8 then that a big improvement.

Remember pulling a heavy trailer 1 time with fresh hardware is one thing. 5-10-15 years down the road when the hardware has been pulled twisted and tweaked and mother nature has done her work on it thats another story...
 
161
2
18
Location
Argyle MI
No kidding the bracing work must be working well to hold it that way.

Never questioned the fab work sir, just the hardware. I see you posted you used grade 8 then that a big improvement.

Remember pulling a heavy trailer 1 time with fresh hardware is one thing. 5-10-15 years down the road when the hardware has been pulled twisted and tweaked and mother nature has done her work on it thats another story...
Yeah not sure why it posted upside down. I've pulled it a half dozen times or so now. Even tested it dragging the trailer loaded through the mud. Had to push with the track loader a little the get through. Let's try again.


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Bill Nutting

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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1,284
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Location
Chesterfield, Mi.
Simple and effective idea, did you put more than just those 2 bolts where those 2 pieces of angle overlap?

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Yes. The I used the bolts to hold the two pieces of angle together while I was dry fitting it. Once I was sure I had the correct drop, I welded them together. I just left the bolts in for extra "grip"... Drilling the frame was the hardest part of this installation. I used the top half of the drop bracket for hole alignment, Drilled the six holes in the frame, then reassembled the brackets and welded the two halves together. Bolting it up was easy because everything lined up perfectly.
 
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