Making oil!

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marchplumber

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Check for coolant. Check the quality of oil. Bypass the FDC. Three good places to start.......................could also use the "search" function.................been quite a few threads about similar subjects. Good luck!
 

pigpen60

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Tried the search but I guess I dont know the right words. Its oil and nothing but oil. I burn wmo. no chocolate milk looking water oil. Was looking at doing the FDC bypass but then when I looked up calibrating the pump I read and all I got was use the test fixture. I dont have a test fixture I have a truck. Confusing as all out.
 

pigpen60

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Ok I tried the Clinto cant find a freaking thing search help and I got better results. So it looks like I'm bypassing the FDC checking the booster pump o-ring. still dont know how to calibrate the pump.
 

fsearls92

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Do you run diesel at all or strictly run waste motor oil? If you use diesel fuel, you can take a white sheet of copy paper and drip a drop or two off the dipstick. If there is fuel in the oil, it will make a halo around the oil drops (sort of like gas on water look). If it does then bypass the FDC and replace the three o-rings on the hydraulic head. Make sure to use the viton o-rings.
 

pigpen60

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Well the FDC is out of the loop. Went to start and the secondary filter started blowing oil. My thinking is I replaced the electric pump and it pushed oil through the FDC and then when I eliminated it I guess the filter o-ring/gasket was the next weak link. While I'm thinking anyone have any idea why I would have a line coming off the output on the secondary fuel filter running to the rear on the drivers side? Pouring or I would be on the ground.
 

Floridianson

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The secondary fuel filter has a T fitting and bypass valve in it and opens at 70 psi. It also has a line coming from the Head and a line going back to the tank. The final fuel filter has one line coming off goes to the Head if that is what you a talking about.
 

pigpen60

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Found the fuel line diagram on Big Mikes. Yep need to hook the "mystery hose" back up! I didnt loop the FDC lines back on themselves I put plugs in. The fuel lines looked like they had a rough life.
 
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dmetalmiki

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When I bypassed my fuel density compensator, I replaced ALL the fuel lines with new. Using high pressure rubber lines, with NO couplings and connections. thus eliminating future leaks. The old lines had just too many couplings joints and connectors 'mid stream'.
 

Floridianson

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Okkkk, I eliminated the T on the input that had the line going under the cab. Guess I need to reinstall it?
Yea that is the overflow from the front side of the Head and the return fuel line to tank. The bypass only opens if there is a over pressure in the system.
 

frank8003

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So I need to replace the blue line back to the "t"? and reinstall the return to the tank?
The TM picture I posted was for me when figuring out what a stock system looks like so when I worked on it I would know which way the fuel is going from where to where and in which direction. The highlighted blue line is necessary. The engine must have a return to the tank and that is the blue highlighted line.
It is from the TM so you can see it there.
There is five ways for the engine to "make oil", to increase the crankcase level. From what I see here in SS the fuel density compensatory is the first to get changed from stock and be bypassed. There is proper instructions within SS on how to do that with pictures.
 
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texas30cal

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My truck made oil from the day I got it, fdc was already bypassed by the military, I did the HH and shutoff o-rings and eliminated the flame heater. All of this slowed it a little but not a lot, the truck was overhauled at tead and all rebuild tags are dated 92. It came down to the booster pump seal, it was hard as a rock and had zero tension on the shaft. This fixed the making oil completely.
 
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