max HP out of a 465 multi fuel?

[ttfiveohranger]

Stock holset and the borg warner turbos the dodge guys upgrade to are very efficient.... Spool fast lots of cool boost relative to other turbos.. it isn't going to be cool at higher boost levels.. If cranking up the pump you may want supplemental fuel supply to the pump.. with new efficient filter and fuel water separator.. I think they are reasonably priced... Not sure how.

I think these motor can be turned up a reasonable amount reliably if your careful about it.. Watch those RPM and EGTs.. Some of the EGT numbers people are seeing and not melting these motor impresses me..

I know plenty of newer big 6 cyl diesels that have valve float in the 2800-3300 rpm range, but the bottom end is good to 4500 rpm and thousands of hp. Vakve train limited... I wouldn't be surprized if valve float kills the motor on over rev consitantly.. Usually when bottom end limited it isn't such a solid line.

 

[LovinPSDs]

If someone was going to change turbos I think your best option is something small with a wastegate. It really doesn't need to make any more than 20 PSI from what I am reading and if it can make that 20 PSI effiecently and cool you will see great benifits.

What are you guys maxing RPMS's at? 2600-2800ish?? Like I keep preaching, there are alot of post about MAX hp but really people want USEABLE hp. Make it more effeicent and everyone will enjoy it.

I'm interested in a water to air intercooler but really have no experience with them...

 

[m16ty]

. But I'm more concerned about the injection pump being able to handle the increased demand, especially with a stock lift pump. IMO, anyone turning them up much should be watching fuel pressure. Low supply PSI and volume is the #1 culprit of smoked injection pumps.

No need to worry about this in a multifuel. The IP is lubed and cooled by the crankcase oil, not the fuel as in some other IPs. As a matter of fact, these engines will run with the lift pump not working.

 

[m16ty]

Water injection has been done by Jwaller (with good results according to him). There has also been intercoolers added (there's a thread around here somewhere with one on a 5-ton multifuel).

 

[yeager1]

Just a thought; someone posted this on another thread. Note that the LDS-465-2 is rated for 200 rpm more then all the other motors and it uses most of the same internal component (but I think it has a different/larger oil pump). If the motor was originally designed for 2850 rpm, it makes me question whether or not these motors are really so prone to blowing up at high rpm's, like the stock LDT’s 2600? I don’t think I’ll raise my governor up (although the chart shows you gain 20hp), but these motors seem to be designed for 2850 stock, so is 2600 really that bad?

 

[hklvette]

If I'm not mistaken, the LDS-2 has a better balanced crank for higher rpm operation.

 

[LovinPSDs]

Should one be worried spinning it up to 2800... I think thats what I was going to shoot for. I need to freakin buy one so I can start modding everything! I did find a multi fuel motor for 500 bucks.. If I could talk him down just alil more it would be great for parts if I wanted to work on modding some.

 

[Trudge]

i know someone already has posted this but i cant find it,...........can some one direct me to a thread on how to turn my fuel up?? i kinda know but i want more details

 

[s1036s]

Thread is under how to turn up fuel...in pictures?

link
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/53010-how-turn-up-fuel-pictures.html

if that works. Post some of your own pictures as well to help the newer guys. Dont forget pyrometer, egt gauges etc.

 

[Trudge]

k i tried surching that but still cant find it! i would really love to see some pics before i do this

 

[s1036s]

did you click on the link. I am sure there are pictures in that thread.

 

[mightymanx]

I am digging this thread back up because I am 90% done with my HX35 turbo upgrade.

I have everything is done except for the welding of the wastgate mount 180* out from the stock location on the compresser housing (You re-clock the turbo 180* from stock to mount up)

I wanted to put a turbo that worked on the truck the stock turbos to put it lightly suck. they were good for 1950's tubo technology that is about it.

I am aiming at moving the turbo powerband down and having it make boost all the way up the rpm curve I will set the waste gate to 20ish psi. The HX365 should start making boost as soon as I crack the throttle.

My overall plan is to use the upped horsepower to push taller transmission gear set and taller tires I own a M109 camper conversion so it's HEAVY.

Overall this mod has cost me about $300 for the t-6 to t-3 adapter, the gaskets, Misc pipe, and someone to heliarc the wastegate bracket ( I already had the turbo) but I am able to do lots of steel fabrication myself.

I will advise you folks how it turns out.

 

[s1036s]

Add some pics,

 

[stumps]

Good luck, and let us know how your engine rebuild goes

-Chuck

 

[ttfiveohranger]

If you can fine some rod bolts or studs that are upgrades and get the pan off.. could be a worth while upgrade!

 

[ttfiveohranger]

watch those rpms.. the rod cap and bolts often affect max rpm..

 

[ttfiveohranger]

ooops put a big intercooler and watch max RPMs.. make sure the oil has 1200-1500 ppm ZDDP

 

[Westech]

ttfiveohranger you need to get caught up on the Forum. All the info you just blabed out has been covered.

There is NO Civy conversion for the rod bolts. Your options are $42.50 Each for new stock or have custom ones made.

A inter cooler is not all that effective due to the intake being surrounded in a water jacket.

A stock Injection pump is set to 2600 RPM and the LDS pump is set to 2900 RPM. Well with in the operating limits of the multi fuel engine.

 

[mightymanx]

I drive at 2300 and up to 2500 for passing hills, RPM is the death of long stroke engines like diesels. I want mine to live AND make power. I will use gears/ tire size for overall speed.

 

[nk14zp]

I think a hx40 would have been a better choice.