Mep-002a fuel shutoff solenoid/manual shutdown?

[Mudwisr2]

Update….after digging around on here a good bit I realize I jumped the gun on firing it up for the first time. The linkage on the side of the IP is really stiff it WILL move up and down but it takes some effort. It fires up and runs strong, in my novice (to these little diesels) opinion. I’ve only ran it a handful of times for very short intervals. Should I run some B-12 or ATF or seafoam , etc in the line and let it sit in the pump a bit to see if that frees it up before I crank it again?

 

[Guyfang]

Chainbreaker wrote:

I think that any curiosity with watching RPM's might get a bit boring after a while... it does a great job at maintaining RPM's if everything is up to snuff & adjusted properly & operated within its rated limits.

If RPM's do drop significantly... its typically because its being overloaded beyond its rated capabilities and you will audibly pick up on the engine pitch que's before you could grab a meter to verify what you are hearing. However, I understand the curiosity of a "new to you" machine.

Years ago, during our first extended outage with my new to me MEP-002a I was a nervous cat... running out to the generator every time I heard an engine pitch change... with well pump kicking on, freezer & fridge compressors coming on, etc. Soon I learned the governor was doing a good job of holding hertz as the engine grunted a bit as it was being loaded & fed more fuel. Just the sweet sounds of a working generator.


When we were in the field, I used to sleep on top of a gen set. We had them all in a central place, and I would wake up when ever a set, any running set, burped. Load change or dropping off line. You get so you can sleep just fine up there. And when one dropped off line, you were THERE to start deciding to repair, or move the output cable. Only another reason I wear two hearing aids and still can't hear. Besides, they also kept you warm!

 

[Guyfang]

Update….after digging around on here a good bit I realize I jumped the gun on firing it up for the first time. The linkage on the side of the IP is really stiff it WILL move up and down but it takes some effort. It fires up and runs strong, in my novice (to these little diesels) opinion. I’ve only ran it a handful of times for very short intervals. Should I run some B-12 or ATF or seafoam , etc in the line and let it sit in the pump a bit to see if that frees it up before I crank it again?



Yes, by all means! Most people feel good about seafoam

 

[Kahles56]

It's been a while since i have been on here,

If I was checking out a new to me generator I would start with draining the fuel filters , the fuel tank and then clean the fuel pump filters first thing .
Checking for water at every step.
Then run new fuel in the genset and check for leaking fuel lines.

Get a multi meter that has HZ reading on it and set the RPM by the hertz meter at 60 cycles per second .
You see the rpms with the pull out fuel control and fine adjust by turning right or left.

That is for starters.

others will post.

The fuel lines are rebuildable and you can use 30-60psi fuel line, it is a lot cheaper than $10.00 / Military grade fuel line. on top of that use a clamp on the furrel or you can get wire pliers from HF and some stainless steel wire and use the wire as a clamp .

 

[Ray70]

Your stiff IP linkage means the IP is gummed up internally. Luckily it sounds like it is just gummy and you did not break the plunger guide by starting it up like that.
Seafoam is a good idea, but could take some time.
I personally would remove the fuel inlet line and pour Berryman's B-12 or acetone directly into the IP full strength and let is soak for several days while occasionally working the linkage up and down.
You will need to use some light air pressure or the fuel pumps to force the cleaner into the IP.
Some guys fill the last filter canister with cleaner, then run the fuel pumps for a minute to cycle the cleaner into the IP.
That IP linkage needs to be 100% free to move if you want the governor to function correctly.

 

[Mudwisr2]

Great. Thank y’all for the replies

 

[Mudwisr2]

More updates to come but I’m having trouble finding the replacement element for the fuel water separator canister. Found fuel filters no problem. Any help appreciated.

 

[Guyfang]

Why don't you start a "parts wanted" Thread? It what you are supposed to do according to the forum rules. And for good reason. You get more exposure. People who deal in Take Off Parts, read Parts Wanted forums. There are many people in the forum who have parts machines and this part fits a million gen sets.

Give it an informative title. Gen set model #, Nomenclature of the part. In the body of the message write: TM #, Figure # and Item #. Write the item description, like it is in the TM, and to be extra sure, a picture of the parts page. Circle the Item number. You will have much more luck this way.

 

[Mudwisr2]

Why don't you start a "parts wanted" Thread? It what you are supposed to do according to the forum rules. And for good reason. You get more exposure. People who deal in Take Off Parts, read Parts Wanted forums. There are many people in the forum who have parts machines and this part fits a million gen sets.

Give it an informative title. Gen set model #, Nomenclature of the part. In the body of the message write: TM #, Figure # and Item #. Write the item description, like it is in the TM, and to be extra sure, a picture of the parts page. Circle the Item number. You will have much more luck this way.

Thank you

 

[Ray70]

On an 002 the fuel water separator is not a replacement part, it's just a stack of aluminum discs inside the canister, no filter etc.
Are you missing the entire assembly, or were you expecting to have an element in the canister that needs to be replaced?

 

[Guyfang]

HI RAY!!

were updates to come but I’m having trouble finding the replacement element for the fuel water separator canister. Found fuel filters no problem. Any help appreciated.

The filter is easy to find. The canister not. Thats why I advised him to give a bit more info and make a parts wanted thread.

 

[Mudwisr2]

On an 002 the fuel water separator is not a replacement part, it's just a stack of aluminum discs inside the canister, no filter etc.
Are you missing the entire assembly, or were you expecting to have an element in the canister that needs to be replaced?

Ok gotcha. Canisters are all intact. Can you run it without the stack of aluminum discs?

 

[Guyfang]

Ok gotcha. Canisters are all intact. Can you run it without the stack of aluminum discs?

Of course. But the strainer is in E-Pay, and other places. Or maybe someone here has it. Hence the parts wanted thread.

 

[Ray70]

Mudwisr, I have 2 options for you.
I have the original water separator disc assembly, I also machine my own aluminum filter adapters for the 002 that allow you to convert it to a readily available spin-on filter / water separator combo.
There is a link to more info in my signature.
I believe you have enough post replies to allow you to send a Private message, or as Guy suggested, start a parts wanted and I will reply there.

 

[Mudwisr2]

Mudwisr, I have 2 options for you.
I have the original water separator disc assembly, I also machine my own aluminum filter adapters for the 002 that allow you to convert it to a readily available spin-on filter / water separator combo.
There is a link to more info in my signature.
I believe you have enough post replies to allow you to send a Private message, or as Guy suggested, start a parts wanted and I will reply there.

I’ll definitely check it out. Also, the fuel line going to the IP is “bubbling” through the outer line casing or whatever you call it. I’ve searched but haven’t found the answer…can you rebuild or reuse the fittings on new pressure rated fuel hose?

 

[Ray70]

For the fuel hose you can either have a cheap hydraulic hose made up using the same 5/16" JIC / -5AN fittings or just use a dremel took and cut-off wheel to slit the outer crimp cover off the existing hose and pull the barbed fittings out and put them into a new piece of 5/16" transmission cooler or fuel hose from your local parts store, use regular band clamps on the ends, the system is only about 7 PSI, so not very much pressure at all.
Several guys on here have posted other ways to fabricate your own hose using the simple push-in fittings and appropriate hose.

 

[Guyfang]

By "Line" I assume you are talking about the hoses. Yes they can be repaired. But you need to find the hose, or a suitable replacement hose, to do so.

1. Take the lines off, and take them to a shop that makes fuel lines.

2. Yes they can be repaired. But you need to find the hose, or a suitable replacement hose, to do so. And its more then a little work, without the proper tools. Can be done. I have done it several times. But not near as nice as a pre-made hose.

 

[Ray70]

How are the rest of the lines on the machine? If you want to replace them, I've found the www.DiscountHydraulichose.com is a great place to mail order custom made hoses at really reasonable prices.
You select the hose type and fittings you want, select the length and they will be on your door step in 2 days.
The hoses are probably $15 at most, but they charge a little bit of shipping so it's more cost effective to buy everything you want in 1 shot.
FYI, the fuel lines on the 002/003 are all 5/16" 37*JIC Female swivel ends with the exception of the return line which is 1/4" 37*JIC.
Only added advice I will give is that the steel portion of their hydraulic fittings is longer than the ends on the original lines, so the flexible portion of rubber hose is less, so if you buy new hoses for the short ones that loop 1 filter housing to the next, or the line that loops between the 2 fuel pumps, add a couple extra inches to the overall length to give you some extra flexibility..... I learned through experience!

 

[Mudwisr2]

When you do the B-12 treatment for the IP, do you fill the third canister with a filter installed or without the filter? I am concerned that the B12 will degrade the filter.

 

[Ray70]

You can do it without the filter. You're just using the canister and fuel pump as a way to push the cleaner into the IP.
When done cleaning, replace the filter and dump out any extra cleaner in the canister.
Then run the pumps a while longer before starting to get the cleaner pushed through the system and into the tank and get fresh diesel into the IP.