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Mep-002a fuel shutoff solenoid/manual shutdown?

Mudwisr2

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The b12 worked like a champ. It did take a while but the IP linkage finally freed up completely! New filters all around, drained fuel system and tank. Fresh fuel and it fired right up and makes power right on the money at lugs and convenience outlets. I have only run a circular saw on the convenience outlets but am going to make up a cord and box to put a load on the main lugs. Ive ran it for about an hour.
I checked this morning after it sat overnight and the IP linkage is getting a little “sticky” again. Any idea as to why this could be happening?
 

Ray70

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Probably still have a film of soft varnish on the plunger components.
I'd recommend setting something up to load it with then running it at a progressively increasing load for a few hours or more, with seafoam or some ATF mixed in with the fuel.
It should clean up on its own after putting a few hours of hard run time on it.
 

Mudwisr2

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Northwest Ms
Another random question…I don’t know if I’m reading things wrong but all the threads I’m reading on 002’s talk about having to hold the IP arm UP to allow it to run. Mine (which is missing the stop solenoid) stays in the UP position and allows generator to run without me holding it. I push the rod down to shut it down and when I let go, the rod returns to the UP position. Am I confused or is something off with my IP?
 

Mudwisr2

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Location
Northwest Ms
Loaded the 002 today (gauge rating) at 50% for about 30 to 45 min then at 75% for about the same amount of time. Don’t have the engine stop solenoid yet so I’m hesitant to leave it unattended. It was in the mid to upper 50’s here at that time and the air vents didn’t open up. Seemed to be running right and not hot. Reason for posting is that there were a couple of times when the governor hunted hard high and low in the rpm range. It stabled out after 10 or 15 seconds each time. I’m assuming it’s due to the IP still getting cleaned out but should I do anything different? I’ve got a Hz meter that should be here tomorrow to verify where it’s actually at.
 

rickf

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Those air vents should be opening up at least a little bit even at those temps. Fully closed it will overheat even on cold days. Have you taken the shrouds off and lubricated all of the moving joints? Made sure they were free?
 

Ray70

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For now continue letting the IP clean out, but keep an eye on things, without the shut off solenoid you'll have no idea if it's overheating or not.
If the hunting continues you may need to make a slight governor adjustment.
 

Mudwisr2

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Northwest Ms
Those air vents should be opening up at least a little bit even at those temps. Fully closed it will overheat even on cold days. Have you taken the shrouds off and lubricated all of the moving joints? Made sure they were free?
They’re slightly cracked. The oil canister isn’t really hot to the touch ( at least to my rough hands). I’ve gently opened them a few times and there wasn’t any resistance but good idea to hit the important points with some lube.
 

Mudwisr2

Member
26
31
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Location
Northwest Ms
For now continue letting the IP clean out, but keep an eye on things, without the shut off solenoid you'll have no idea if it's overheating or not.
If the hunting continues you may need to make a slight governor adjustment.
Thank you Ray. I’ve got an ad here for a solenoid and am actively looking for something that’s either not from china or not priced the same as a precious metal. Generator seems happy and cool and I’ll continue to monitor it closely. I’ll check back in regarding the governor. I know I’ll have questions.
 

Mudwisr2

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Location
Northwest Ms
I have put about 8 or so loaded hours on it so far and it seems to be doing good. However, when I start it up it seems to rev high and there is no response from the throttle adjustment knob when it has no load on it. As soon as there is a load placed on it, the throttle adjustment normally functions as it should. Is this normal?
 

2Pbfeet

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Mt. Hamilton, CA
Since you just worked the engine over, that does sound a bit odd, but I don't know exactly what the cause could be. That sounds like some amount of stiction (friction) on a cold injector rack. Sometimes when I get an engine that seems to be "sticky", I will put some Tuff-oil in. Yes, I know, mystery oil additive, but I have had good luck over the years in having it free up things in engines that I couldn't otherwise nail down.

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 

Chainbreaker

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Oregon
As Ray & Guy stated load test it. Would be very good if you could load test with something like a 5kw-7kw garage heater or old clothes dryer resistive load etc.

Nothing like a load test running with treated fuel (Seafoam or equivalent diesel fuel supplement). Thats when you should see the louvers slowly opening from a continuous load & it does wonders to cleanse the fuel system, injectors, cylinders all the way through to exhaust.

Always best to hopefully flush out a problem during load testing versus "critical need running" during power outage.
 

Mudwisr2

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Location
Northwest Ms
I’ve been using 3 (or 4 at a time) 1500w 120v heaters to load test. I don’t have anything 220 that’s mobile and constant yet( probably will pick up an old stove or hook genset it into the house). My 220 options are intermittent power such as welding, etc. Fuel system is thoroughly flushed and I have seen improvements running ATF with diesel. Just can’t figure out why throttle doesn’t respond when it’s colder (30-50F) unless it has a load on it (1200w and up)
 

rickf

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Burning ATF in the fuel is not a good idea, this in NOT a multifuel engine. If you want pump lubrication then use two stroke oil which is designed to be burned. Better yet use Power Service Lubrication and Cetane additive. ATF is designed NOT to burn and will leave a lot of carbon on the pistons and injector tips. If you want to free up the pump use Seafoam in the fuel. If you want to create more problems then use the cheapo home made recipes.
 
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