This may sound stupid but can I run both house and shop with two separate wires on the same legs ? And would it be loaded that way ? And how much load needs to be on it? Sorry for the dumb questions I’m new to this type of genset.
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Mep 006a
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Scoobyshep
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You can. The problem is if you put a heavy load on say l1 and l3 but no load on l2 it's not exactly good for the head not to mention your just wasting fuel at that point
Okay thanks would that be the same if it were to be converted to 120-240v?
Scoobyshep
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No actually it's better at that point to do the conversion because it basically splits the voltage between two legs and places a current through all windings.
All I need to do is find someone that knows how or that can tell me how
Scoobyshep
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Okay if you're up for a little homework, very carefully take the voltage reconnection board apart from its mount and on all 12 of the studs tell me exactly which wire is on what each wire should have a number stamped on it. From that point I'll help you go through the schematics and figure out what we need to move where
I will have to do it tmr after work
i will have to do it tmr when I get in from work. The pic I sent may or may not be helpful as of right now but will pull the board tmr.
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You can use the 120 208 3p feed. Feed shops with phase a and b, feed house with phase b and c. You can change it to shops b and c or vice versa Make sure 220 items like ac, air comp, elec heat, etc run regularly to balance load.
Honestly depending on load you could house A-B, shop 1 b-c and shop 2 b-a, or any combo split like this, balance it the best you can for demand. Your 240 stuff should run on 208 just use a little more amps. You can share, just balance and ALWAYS mark your phases.
Noncoincidental load example: 60a elec furnace and 30a ac don't run at same time so largest draw and not smallest is used in factoring demand.
Honestly depending on load you could house A-B, shop 1 b-c and shop 2 b-a, or any combo split like this, balance it the best you can for demand. Your 240 stuff should run on 208 just use a little more amps. You can share, just balance and ALWAYS mark your phases.
Noncoincidental load example: 60a elec furnace and 30a ac don't run at same time so largest draw and not smallest is used in factoring demand.
I’d really like to convert it but if I can’t I’m going to have to try something like that
LEYDEN EMD
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Take you reconnection board and cut the bus bar between T12 and T11 take a short battery cable and run it from T12 to T2 that will give you 240/120
Scoobyshep
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There's more to it than that.
LEYDEN EMD
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I have done this on over 10 different sets from 004 to 006 after the conversion you use L1 and L3 for the hots and lo is neutral. Some of these were done over 10 years ago and are still running.
Okay and isn’t there a few wires to move around on the back for the gauges to read right?
Scoobyshep
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I am no stranger to this modification and I can tell you for sure on a 004 and 005 there's 3 control wires that need to move otherwise the AVR won't react correctly.
Scoobyshep
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More importantly the AVR
I thought some wires had to be moved on the back as well
Scoobyshep
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Yes. Those are the ones I'm referring to. The instrumentation leads and avr sense are fed from the back of the recon board
I found this in the comments on a video but don’t know how true it is.
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Scoobyshep
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Me a little bit and I'll look for the schematics and see what I can figure out
Ray70
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Well, that would seem to explain the difference between the 004/005 conversion and the 006.
I know they are not the same.... apparently you have found the difference!
My only additional comment would be that most of the instructions on doing the 004/005 conversion show the buss bar as a separate removable copper bar under the voltage reconnect board. I have never seen one ( 004 or 005 ) with the removable buss bar. Every one I've done had the buss bar riveted to the back of the voltage board. Not sure what you will find on your 006, but just an FYI.
If it's riveted on, rather than remove all the wires and remove the board I just go in with a Dremel with a cutoff wheel, cut the buss bar and shave the head off the last rivet so you can remove the scrap piece.
I know they are not the same.... apparently you have found the difference!
My only additional comment would be that most of the instructions on doing the 004/005 conversion show the buss bar as a separate removable copper bar under the voltage reconnect board. I have never seen one ( 004 or 005 ) with the removable buss bar. Every one I've done had the buss bar riveted to the back of the voltage board. Not sure what you will find on your 006, but just an FYI.
If it's riveted on, rather than remove all the wires and remove the board I just go in with a Dremel with a cutoff wheel, cut the buss bar and shave the head off the last rivet so you can remove the scrap piece.