MEP-016B Generator Startup

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Hello

My first mep and every indication is, it is brand new. It just looks perfectly new.

So when I have been read posts I have kept in mind they have been talking used at some point in the advice given and thinking that could be different if its never been used.. The manual has the oil change schedule at 125 hrs. When I get this setup how long should I run it before make the first oil change? On fuel should I add anything in the fuel for the first run? I am sure you could do many posts on fuel but I am mainly talking first run here. How long should I run it the very first time or does that even matter. They probably just fire them up and use them but its mine and if I can make a difference I would like to. Regular 15-40w first use then 5-30 full synthetic, thereafter?? Change oil filter at same first change?

I ordered starting batteries for it and they are scheduled for next week. I have yet to install a grounding rod. I felt it would have a rod but it did not. Last question, can you have a external fuel line made up or do you have to use a OEM one? Fittings, size?

If you can add something please do.

Thank you


Post #5 General recap
Post #6 has been updated with information on using the load terminals successfully with 120v ph1 straight up on the MEP-016B (read post #15)
Post #9 was undated with information on consumables, fluids are in post #5
Post #11 has technical info on the fuel cap and vent and battery install alternatives
Post #15 shows final outcome of Delk's service on using the load terminals.
Post #18 new onan Q106d engine break-in
Post#19 30 amps to use with 120v appliances
Post#20 onan part note on aftermarket transfer pump

 

[Isaac-1]

The external fuel fitting is an AN fitting but it will mate with commercial JIC fittings, off hand I think it is a -4 or -5 size, as I recall MEP-002 uses -5 and MEP-016b uses -4, but I would not bet on that.

 

[Keith_J]

No need for synthetic, Pistons don't get hot enough.

first run check there is oil pressure, then let it warm up at rated speed and load test. No need to baby these engines, they are far more powerful than required.

 

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I have read some threads regarding this and they do not answer my question directly.

mep016b neutral jumper instructions? Mine was sitting on a shelf while others got converted.

Some posts refer to the TB6 and in mine it might be A1-TB6 terminal and mine is empty, its at the back of a strip running from the front of the panel to the back when sitting in front of the unit with the control panel open. The L0 lug backside is at the very top right hand corner inside the panel behind 2 boxes attached to drivers side of the box.

I want to be clear as rain on this so I do not mess this beautiful thing up (me or it)

To complete my mep016b mission, I take a piece of #12 white wire and attach the end to the terminal A1-TB6 run it to the back side of the L0 lug and then run that same wire downward and tie it into the ground strap bolted to the generator frame?

Or

In the TM-6115-615-12 on page marked "change 5-15"
Titled "Section V. Ground Jumper And Load Cable Installation"
a. open service door
b. reach in guide jumper
c. loosen clamps route jumper
d. connect one end to ground stud in generator base and the other end to the proper load terminal.
(in this instructions the A1-TB6 is not used)

which is the proper way to get the neutral or are they different things?

thanking anyone in advance.

 

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This is an recap so far for newbies looking for information for their MEP-016B.

Best Oil. Diesel 15/40 non-synthetic (temperature dependent)

Best Fuels. Seasonal - Diesel #1, #2 and #2 Home Heating Oil
Additives are needed for lubricity, anti-gelling, cleanup, storage
A fuel prime should hold for a while or you may have an air leak in the fuel system if it does not.
Don't run your fuel dry like in a small gas engine.

Grounding jumper for the output terminals (ie L2 in the ph1 120v) is recommended to be #6 gauge white stranded. These machines are made slightly different and you may run into a problem doing it exactly as described because either the split bolt is not big enough or because the control box does not have an opening. On mine both is true. So to overcome that I am going to drill out the corner weep hole in the control box and disconnect the ground braid in the skid and tie in there and run it up inside the control box protecting the wire insulation from vibration where it enters the control box and tie into the back side of L2 with a ring terminal. The only way I can reach the back side of L2 is to remove the two bolts holding the bracket with the voltage reconnection switch, reattach and reassemble.

I will try and clear this up for all newbies in the end, but, for now this is what I know. Some of these machines, maybe most have undergone a electrical conversion and when you read you will get conflicting information or at the very least you will not know for sure. By the end I will fix that as it relates to the MEP-016B it may be a week or more because good help on that comes at a price.

To check and see if yours has the conversion to 120/240 split phase open the control box the thing with the dials and gauges and look inside for a terminal block A1-TB1 its right up front, running front to back. It has wires that rise from the generator windings that come out of the floor of the control box and terminate on the left hand side of A1-TB1. On the floor of the control box on the right hand side of A1-TB1 you will see numbers 1-6, 6 is at the back. The terminals on the very front and very back don't count they just hold that block to the floor. So if your number 6 or as it is T6 has a white wire on it coming off the right hand side of terminal block A1-TB1 that meanders off to the back side of L0 on the load terminals on the backside top right of the control box you have been converted.

I have not been converted and I am not sure I will. If I wanted to I would just tie that same T6 terminal to the backside of L0.

If you are going to tie into your house then you are golden with the conversion. You might consider whether you need that and you could remove the T6 jumper and use it as straight up. You have choices.

I also found the plate on the side of the machine confusing that shows the connections available. I thought the markings were amps and they are actually phases. 1 phase or 3 phase with the different voltages.

Another confusing thing I have read on the internet. I have seen references to a white wire running from the back side of from a load terminal to the ground strap when talking about the conversion. A ground jumper is what that is and is required for any connection when not tied in to your home. And that could change according to the connections you make, so that does not indicate the conversion, but the T6 does.

Someone gave here gave verbal instructions on an important TM manual corrections on figure 4.1 attached here i added it to the drawing. My load terminals are in a different order than is shown in either figure 2-4.3 in TM 5-615-615-12 but the wiring is the same. Mine goes top - down L0,L1,L2,L3 the drawings are different. Another quirk.

Take the time to study the grounding. A very helpful drawing is the figure 2-4.3. I got a grounding rod in the dirt by using a water drill you can find a couple of videos on that. I had a dickens of a time getting the hose fitting pounded into the ent but it worked. The quality of the soil has a direct impact on the quality of that ground after you pound in that rod and I didn't know that. Using the ground rod when the generator is not tied into your home is important only if you love life.

Edit, I missed this and it will be helpful if you want to have a outside fuel source. Although mine was unused it did not have the grounding rod or the auxiliary fuel line with it so the post above with the fitting size will be needed so you can actually use this fine machine longtime.

 

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To further understand the MEP-016B for the Newbie here is some info about how to make the load terminals useful in connecting a load from something.


This is from a recent post I found here about using the generator separately and not being tied into your home.


So I have already mentioned the need for installing an 8ft grounding rod. Don’t use the existing ground near your homes electric meter. Drive a separate grounding rod at least 10 ft away from you electric service meter where the water table is within reach of the end of the rod you install.
Set the voltage reconnection switch for 120v phase 1. Then wire up a receptacle box that is setup to meet your needs and connect to the load terminals. Make sure your connections are tight. They have some waterproof terminals you can make connections with


Connect the neutral ground jumper if it’s not already and then connect your generator to the grounding rod with a #6 grounding wire with an acorn nut. Make sure your connection is tight.
My generators is on wheels and I will install a fixed roof panel to keep water out of the electrical bits and roll it out of the basement near the grounding rod, connect them, start the generator and add my loads into the outlet box I attached to the frame. You already have 2 outlets on the front, each of those have a 12amp fuse.


If you need 240, that’s different and not covered here. Different in the grounding also. Mine is not converted for 120/240 split and this post is just about using the 120v phase 1 the generator has to offer.


I think we can ride those 30amps all day and all week and go over sometimes. I saw an interesting post about using a L5-30 twist lock/recessed receptacle to feed a 6 circuit main breaker panel (separate from the home) with some 20amp breakers. The option is here to make this generator very useful. The 20amp breaker will run a refrigerator better than the convenience receptacles on the front with a 12amp fuse.


There is a lot more to grounding a generator than I have touched on here and if you are technical it may help you to look further into it. I am not technical and a well placed grounding rod is the best I can do for myself. I have read solutions for places like grounding rods in the desert, so the information is out there.

 

[dependable]

I think you should not be giving electrical advice as an admitted 'newbie'.

Grounding advice for gen sets can be a can of worms.

By the way, if you think the people on the Stak generator forum who were trying urge you to be careful and answer your questions 'were being mean', you have a funny set of goggles on.

Heads up guys.

 

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You are not adding anything specific. I don't see how I have missed stated anything and this is not high school. You just displayed what I thought was unhelpful behavior. Running your mouth without saying anything. You inserted yourself there as well without adding anything other than to offer warnings. I went over here and found helpful cohesive information that others posted and put it in this thread. I can Edit my orginial post to reflect helpful information I gather so when you are venting I can keep this thread on topic.

 

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On Consumables for the MEP-016B

24 volt battery stock 4HN had to find. I am using two interstate 880 ca.

The original air filter part # is very hard to find. Mine is oem and measures 104mm wide, 160mm (+- 1 or 2) tall/long, round. The stamp on the oem filter reads 16236-4310012815988 MFR-76700 263 , one end has a hole approximately 6.5mm centered. Maybe more info will be added here on that item.

Fuel Filter Wix 33516, napa 3516, fleetguard FF244, if your is a facet gold flo fuel filter the filter and gasket, 40128, 40128E

Oil filter Wix 51378, napa 1378,fleetguard LF3525

Injectors can be rebuilt

 

[Isaac-1]

Air filter is a Donaldson part # I have a couple, but am on vacation now, will try to post it when I get home in a few days.

 

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Looking at the battery installation of regular car batteries because of the longer warranty, They will live outside the frame and so the cables will need to be longer. Both battery cables come from the right side looking at the control box under cover and run to the battery tray where they branch off to the Slave Receptacle plug above. I am going to replace both cables and remove the Slave Receptacle plug completely. I will never use it. It will also allow for more ventilation on the oil cooler not having batteries stuffed in that space.

I need to gather enough battery cable for both leads and the jumper. I estimated 18" down the side and 36" across the back, outside, past the OEM battery box, out the side, with enough to have the batteries sit on a small dolly or tank truck so they can permanently sit and roll. I think I am using marine type battery cable connections which will allow me to make the connections quickly to charged batteries. To me it will be a good setup with batteries because someone is will to just replace them for 42 months rather than 6 on smaller ones.

I mentioned tying the ground jumper into the ground braid on the frame bottom. The bolt is 8.5m thick which is fairly large. Looking for a fork terminal that big has not shown up yet. A worthy connector is mandatory, if not I may end up keeping it in the groung split bolt below.

I found some rust flakes in the fuel tank bottom that appears to have dusted off the fuel pickup tube over time. I had a clean long handle brush and I brushed the interior and then vacuumed the tank out. I know that saved my new fuel filter because it looked like 1-2 teaspoons looking down the well. Clean as a whistle now.


Edit, look up MS35645G and you will find the complete four page technical document on this fuel cap. The positions are verified in its diagrams. 12-6pm is open 3-9 is closed. i attached the meat and potatoes.

 

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Delk's is not to far from me. Last week I went and visited with them and discussed my generator. I noticed the oil hose off the oil pan was damp and wanted them to look at that and just to look the thing over and spend a few minutes with me, I told them i was a rank newbie. Very nice people.

The service guy just now left my home and I learned a lot. We figure when the fork lift guy lifted my genny to put it on my trailer he broke the fitting and the engine had a few ounces of oil that leaked out where it was poured into the cylinder at test time. He said they tested some of them. He looked in the fuel tank and could not see any use? He did not have the right fitting so in a couple weeks he will come back and I will fire it up.

He checked everything I had done and he re-configured my batteries, disconnecting the slave receptacle and adding a jumper. When he comes back around we will crank it up and he will check my power. One great thing is mine should not leak oil for some time and he installed a extender so when I change the oil it will not make a mess.

He said it was rare to see one in the shape mine is in. He spent time looking at the wiring and remarked he could see not see where any changes had been made and that means it was original like I thought even through i had never seen one before. They have 5kw and up there for sale. It was worth every cent I paid to have them come out and just handle it. Something goes wrong I know who to call.

If you are ever in that area you gotta see that place. Out back is full of big stuff, well the front is too. They know what they are doing. They don't say stuff like that's a another can of worms, I got actual definite answers from guys in the business and they came to my home. Another tip he gave me, he said if i ever needed to jump start it to use two cars and two battery cables and to hook them up just like they were in separate cars. I would have done that wrong

We talked injectors and I will update this thread when he comes back because there is something we should be using in the fuel, I was given so much information I need to re-visit what exactly he said. I had never read it before so it would be news to most people or one of those secrets that seem to live here.

I am very glad I did not give into to excitement and put oil in until I checked it thoroughly. Looking at the photo you can see why. The hose twisted and you could not tell until you opened it up.

 

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I got my air filters today using the

Onan 140-2183 ​

part number I posted, they are out now but its still a good stock number.

Many may not be aware but there is an o-ring between the air filter housing halves. Mine was present but broken. I was able to measure it and find a similar one.

4mm x 137mm Buna-N 70 Metric O-rings (N4.00X137). It's slightly thicker than my actual measurement, but mine is 30 years old. It measures 3.6 and this ones 4. The drain hose is on its way this week.

 

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The oil drain hose has arrived and I decided before putting it on I wanted to use some Hylomar on the threads. Should be here thursday. I am getting close to using this beast.

On this journey I have continued to look for written information on the electrical connections. I found this article over at GM that draws on an article that was written long ago but updates it and discusses using transformers and their connections. Starts with the MEP-016A and moved on to the 002a and 003a. Something for everyone. Its the most helpful written resource I have found on electrical connections. I had read the Tollstram article before. Hopefully you can find something that is helpful for you as well.

ttp://greenmountaingenerators.com/how-to-wire-a-mep002a-or-mep003a-diesel-generator/

 

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Delks came back out today and brought the drain hose. The one I bought off ebay was a little to long but the inside of the portion of the hose that screws into the oil pan is beveled and the ebay hose was not, I guess the bevel is so the oil can drain completely. I would have not noticed that. If I break the one delks brought out I will have to use it.

The generator started and ran. Everything worked perfectly except the hertz meter, well it works just not all the time you have to press on it and its accurate. I am going to replace it when I can find one. Not bad for buying a pig in a poke. Delks said it sounded great. i used a new oil filter, i was afraid the one on there had to much age on the gasket. the oil filter was a cummins LF3525 and that was what I had to replace it with. it had green paint on it but the bottom was clean and you could see the number.

All though the manuals and things I had read said there was a jumper needed it turns out that it was NOT needed in this case. The delks tech put a meter on it and put the genset through the ringer testing everything. i am including a photo of the connections lugs where he marked them for me. So, I think with these you must use a electric meter on them before doing anything to one. Along the way they all must have been modified. He checked mine closely the first time he was out on June 3rd and saw nothing and he rechecked today same comment and then he used the meter after it was cranked up for the first time. So there was no guessing and a Delks army navy service person did the work. This newbie just paid someone to get it right the first time.

LO is at the top and L3 is at the bottom in the photo. He put an X on L3 since i will not be using 3phase and marked L0 as N for neutral. It was nice to have someone show you in person how the machine worked. It was expense but well worth it. I can say Delk's is excellent.

 

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The machine had not been started in long time. i read about having to prime the fuel line upto 400 times. it turns out that priming the pump slowly allows for the process to be more productive. I heard the fuel running back into the fuel tank after 15 pumps. hope that helps you when you start your first one up.

 

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This machine is awesome and so very loud, when I say loud I mean airplane loud. I am sitting on my front porch about 75 feet from it with ear plugs in when I say that. The old trick of stealing a Genny while its running would never work here regardless of the weight. I believe it now this could run endlessly, almost.

 

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I continue to dig for information. I find this revelant because it was unused and was curious what onan said for break-in. I could not find engine printed specific procedures until today.

Onan Q106D break-in
Warm up
Apply load
One half hour 1/2 load
One half hour 3/4 load
Apply full load

They warn continuous running under half load for first several hundred hours may result in poor piston ring seating causing higher than normal oil consumption and blowby. Change oil after 1st 50 hours.

 

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Today I got more information on the generator. One question I could get an answer to was, is 120 volt 3 phase the same as 120 volt 1 phase to my refrigerator and other 120 volt appliances and the answer
Yes,..

So that means by putting the switch in the 120v 3phase position and having my ground jumper run between L2 and the earth ground lug on the bottom of the frame and running another #6 wire to the actual earth ground rod/plates, I will have 30.1 amps to use, that's fairly large amount for a 3kw generator. And from there my electrician has yet to offer how he thinks I can easily operate the 3-4 thing I care about. Might be another week or two before he comes.

With 30amps you can run a small heater, frig, TV, some lights

I have said it before this thread only relates to 120v, if you need or want more than that from this generator look in another thread. I do know you do not want a jumper on L2 in 240. Many were converted and my thread is for generators not converted. No jumper from T6 to L0.

 

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Onan left a part note on the transfer pump to help when you look at aftermarket.

"transfer pump pressure cannot exceed 8 psi at maximum outlet restriction and the flow can not be less than 90L /hr with no restriction at outlet"