@peapvp &
@Guyfang - Thank you. I was able to spend some time last evening looking into the wiring and control panel. Here are some photos of what I found:
The wire that we've been referring to as burned appears on closer inspection to be gnawed or chewed and / or possible just rough-handled. I'm sorry these photos are blurry. I took them with my phone and I thought they looked better on the little phone screen and it wasn't until I closed everything back up and reviewed them on a computer monitor that I could see they are kind of poor quality.
What do you folks think? If it was burned, wouldn't it be the whole wire and not just some spots? Regardless, I understand that this needs repairing or replacing. Speaking of repairing or replacing, what is recommended? Do I source a replacement wire or fabricate one myself?
I removed the connector with the broken / cut wire P1-SHLD1 wire and look what I found:
I straightened that pin, I think it is the "S" pin on the J1 connector.
I also re-attached the previously broken wire to see if any errors went away. They did not.
I took some somewhat better photos of the screens. In a few you may notice that the "Battle Short" mode is active and that is because I was testing to see if indeed that switch was working.
One thing I noticed is that when I power up the MEP-1050 initially after re-attaching the batteries the oil pressure indicator is lit - not greyed out - and then goes greyed out after about 3-5 seconds.
Here are some other control screen photos including the one with the firmware versions. I do not know if firmware is a thing that gets updated at all or not on these generators.
What is engine oil rifle pressure? That is a strange term to me.
I knew the fuel level was low, but I was sure that there was some in the tank. Is there a minimum amount I should have for testing / repairing this unit?
Engine coolant temp 1 sensor cut high voltage. Voltage above normal or shorted to high source. I guess this says it.
