MEP-803A Will no longer start seems to be fuel issue not sure how.

[deherenman]

Legally Blind poster here.
Bought MEP-803A back in Jul of 2023 Running off GP. Did fluid change oil, coolant, All filters/canisters. Replaced fuel return line from CallMeColt kit. New fuses thanks to help from Kurt. New batteries with battery maintainers.
Unit would start almost instantly. Ran the unit about 10-15 hours all told. Unit has 6400 plus hours.
Main issue I am having. Since February of 2024 I can not get the unit to start. I could get it to start with either / gasoline on a rag. I know not good for unit. Stopped using either now have WD40 Acts like it isn't getting fuel.
On oil filter side of engine Fuel solenoid is working moves back and forth with key is turned.
Getting stream of fuel out of fuel metal line where the low pressure line connects. Getting fuel when cracking metal lines just below main metal fuel line.
When cracking the lines at the point of each injector I don't seem to be getting much if any fuel on top of engine.

Now if i remove air filter rubber hose and spray diesel fuel direct in to air intake after air filter unit will run but only until spray fuel is burned up. Seems like " fuel rack " not sure how to access fuel rack? See shared video.. I have been through TM 9-2815-253-24. Fuel system / injectors.


Please point in right direction. Keeping in mind I have vary bad eye sight.

1st Starting July 27 2023

Fuel stream Jun 24 2024 https://youtube.com/shorts/GrJ3Z_p8Z74?si=nTipfcEMYw8vQqQY
Will not stay runing Jun 24 2024 https://youtube.com/shorts/JGc_Bwa21mc?si=rfciDNUqUkNOYjpd

 

[kloppk]

I'd recommend the following to see if the rack is stuck.
Remove the plug on the side of the governor that's used to access the Droop Adjustment screw. This..


Then look right thru the hole and you will see a rectangular metal block. This block is connected to the left end if the rack. Watch that block while you manually retract the fuel solenoid. The square block should move right out of sight. If it doesn't then the rack is stuck.

Also check to be sure the linkage from the fuel shutoff solenoid is still connect and that the rotating arm on the governor body and that it rotates fully from touching the stop limit screw to the run limit screw while the solenoid moves from the stop position to the run position.

 

[deherenman]

Kurt thank you for the reply. Greatly appreciated. I might need a slightly zoomed out picture. Make sure I'm looking at the right thing. I will look when I am next to back at the unit to see if it is the rack. All my linkage still seems to be sliding with the fuel solenoid. I will double check that as well and report back with results might be next week.

Is there a reason that the rack would all of a suddenly start sticking? And as there a cleaning procedure or maintenance that can be done to prevent rack sticking in the future or is the rack replaceable?

 

[Light in the Dark]

The most common reason for the rack to stick is for one or more metering fuel pumps, to be gummed up and no longer rotating (which is what that rack is moving).

 

[Guyfang]

Yeah, would say the IP's need to be pulled and cleaned. If it still wont start, remove the injectors and turn the injector input lines to the side and then put the injectors back on the lines. Turn the set over to see if you are getting fuel to the injectors.

 

[Ray70]

The linkage will appear normal on the outside even if it's frozen ( due to a sticky metering pump ) on the inside.
The rack is not directly connected to the rack, the only connection in the opening position is a spring, so if a pump is sticking the linkage outside the engine pulls on the spring inside, but the rack won't open.
Crack the lines loose at the top of the metering pumps and crank the engine for 20 seconds from the main switch, not the dead crank.
If no fuel is spurting from the loosened hard lines you can bet for sure one of the metering pumps is holding the rack in the closed position.
If you remove them, do yourself a favor, remove 3 and leave one in place.
Clean and install the first 3, then remove the last.
Removing all 4 lets the fuel rack move too far forward and makes reinstalling the pumps much more difficult than if you leave 1 in place to keep the rack in position.

 

[deherenman]

I have attempted to remove 1 fuel injector pump with out luck.

Loosened the metal fuel line at top of pump.
Loosened / removed the coupler where the fuel line connects to. See video I replaced after removing to keep everything together. Injector pump seems to be stuck in place I am unable to lift it out of the block to remove after removing hard lines and hold down. Is there a magic way to remove fuel injector pumps? When rack is stuck.

Throttle
Governor / throttle level seems to be stuck hard unable to move this is where the shut off solenoid is connected. I might get 1/32 in. of motion.

I attempted to removed the cover to Droop Adjustment screw no luck. I could of been removing the wrong cover.

For the braided metal rubber hose that connects the fuel rail coming from the fuel cup/filter what size and type is this line? As well how do you removed the metal ring 1/2 in connecting the line to the fuel rail? Seems to be a solid metal crimp. .

As always I am open to suggestions Please see video if that helps

 

[kloppk]

Since the IP body rotates freely but won't lift out I suspect the rack is stuck in the run position preventing the IP from being removed. When the rack is NOT in the stop position the pin and it's arm of the IP are in a position under the lip in the block preventing the IP from being removed.

The oval plate is not the correct spot to check the position of the rack and to see its movement. See the -24 TM for the plug to remove to do the Droop Adjustment. That's how see the end of the rack.

To remove the brass hose cramps I carefully use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to make a slit in the brass collar, pry it open and remove it and the remaining hose.

The hose is just fuel rated hose, not hydraulic hose. There is only a few PSI of pressure in them.

 

[deherenman]

What is the size of the hose? I'm not sure if I have the correct size from any of my other leftover projects so I might need to purchase some. I will have to take another look at the TM maybe I missed that.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Did you back off the fuel stop solenoid 'set screw' on the block? That has to be loosened and moved closer to the radiator slightly, so the rack can be brought so the pump pins will line up with the insertion/ejection slits.

Its set that way so the pumps will not readily jump out of the rack.

 

[deherenman]

I have not backed off the "set screw" could you provide a picture?

I have not found the plug to do the "Droop Adjustment" yet.

I have removed the two Fuel injector pumps closest to the front control panel. I the first one looks normal came out no issue arm moves freely. 2nd pump seems to be fine arm moves freely both springs compress. On 2nd pump the washer is missing that is is at the end of the spring. Does anyone have a replacement part? I think it is 8 in the screenshot.

Pump 3 -4 the stud is in the block and unable to rotate the pumps to lift out. The nuts came off the stud and didn't screw out the hole stud. So will need to take out the studs 1st before removing pumps. keeping 1 pump in at all times.

See picture from other member washer on left of picture.

 

[deherenman]

I was able to remove the other two pumps while leaving one of the previous injection pumps in place. Only the one pump had the washer seen in the left of the above picture. The other three did not. All pumps arms moved freely after spraying some carburetor cleaner through them.

The rack was still in the closed position and would not open. I took a perinatal nose and gently twisted the little metal piece that the solenoid arm connects to and it popped loose and now when I actuate the solenoid arm connected to it does move but it's still sort of stiff. This is with all four fuel injector pumps in how freely is that rack supposed to move?

It does sort of still stick only this time it sticks in the position closest to the control panel. I don't have fuel line on the injector pumps yet so I haven't tried starting it.

The set screw that I was supposed to back off just put on quite know where that is. As well the droop adjustment cover/screw I have not located that as well. Maybe I'm just missing something blatantly obvious.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

I was able to remove the other two pumps while leaving one of the previous accounts and place. Only the one pump and the washer seen in the left of the above picture. The other three did not. All pumps moved freely moved even more friendly after spraying some carburetor cleaner through them.

The Rock was still in the closed position and would not open. I took a perinatal nose and gently twisted the little metal piece that the solenoid arm connects to. And it popped loose and now when I actually the solenoid and when I actuate the solenoid is connected to it does move but it's still sort of stiff. This is with all four fuel injector pumps in how freely is that piece that the solenoid arm connect to supposed to move?

It does sort of still stick only this time it sticks in the position closest to the control panel. I don't have fuel line on the injector pumps yet so I haven't tried starting it.

The set screw that I was supposed to back off just put on quite know where that is. As well the droop adjustment cover/screw I have not located that as well. Maybe I'm just missing something blatantly obvious.

If you are doing talk to type or auto correct please stop i can't follow what you are saying

 

[Guyfang]

At 1.40 min of the video, you can see the solenoid and linkage. It is bent. It is supposed to move freely That's the reason for the long hole in the linkage. You have to force it in the video. Take the linkage off, pound it flat and replace it. But make sure the you do not crank it down so it will not move freely. I think you have a whole bunch of little problems, that are hiding one another.

 

[deherenman]

Thank you very much. I will flatten out that linkage and report back.

 

[Guyfang]

These might also help. When you have the linkage off, can you by hand move the rack? Did all 4 IP's rotate easy when installed?

 

[deherenman]

I flattened out the linkage. Replaced my fuel line. At first I was unable to get the unit to start did the method in the video of spraying diesel fuel into the air intake. Eventually it did take off. And I could not get it to shut down by turning the key. So maybe I tightened the linkage screw up too much I'm not sure how loose that linkage is supposed to be. As well I had to adjust the governor grew the closest to the door that looks like there are two of them there so I could get the injector pump out closest to the radiator fan. I need to adjust that back my RPMs are way too high. But it does start. The solenoid does not make the retracting click sound like it used to so I think I have the linkage too tight. I will take a video of it tonight or tomorrow and see if maybe I have something just slightly adjusted wrong. But it is running. Thank you guys for all of your assistance and knowledge and this troubleshooting endeavor. I am grateful. I got it to hand it to the members. Super helpful.

 

[deherenman]

So I fixed the linkage issue had the little nut in the wrong spot preventing the linkage to move freely.
Now for the racing engine it would stop on it own still running crazy fast after fixing linkage. So I rotated the fuel pumps.
After rotating the a small amount. The unit starts vary slow and will not get up enough RPM's to stay at 60 HZ before slowing down to a vary slow chug pace. When it was racing and when it is running slow RPM it is blowing black smoke heavy. Unit use to only puff a little black smoke at startup.

Any one in the DFW area that could take a look?

 

[deherenman]

After removing the IPS cleaning them multiple times. Reading and talking to other form members offline. That looks like I need to remove the " gear end cover' according to the -24 TM 30th October 1996 version...

Step A
a. Insert common screwdriver through flywheel housing into flywheel gear ring."

I have been unable to locate the small hole that is in the flywheel cover to insert a screwdriver to remove the 15th 16th inch bolt that holds the serpentine pulley in place. I would much rather do that than pull the starter. Are there any other options out there? Has anybody have pointers?

I would rather not remove the radiator if it all possible that looks like a whole lot of work. Or is that the best way / most efficient way to remove the gear and cover to have a look at the internals of the rack and seeing what's binding up.

 

[Guyfang]

You wrote:
After removing the IPS cleaning them multiple times. Reading and talking to other form members offline. That looks like I need to remove the " gear end cover' according to the -24 TM 30th October 1996 version...

So I dont have to read the entire TM, What page are you talking about?

Do you not mean 1993?