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Mep 831A load issues

2Pbfeet

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Also both injectors looked the same when they came out. Pretty coated in carbon. It's that pretty normal?
Not in my experience. It seems as if your engine is being overfueled.

If it were me, I would go back to try fueling the high pressure pump directly again and see if that improves your load and smoke. If it doesn't, I am starting to wonder if pulling the engine to check the camshaft timing and the rings might be in order. Sorry.

All the best, 2PbFeet
 

grywitt

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Not in my experience. It seems as if your engine is being overfueled.

If it were me, I would go back to try fueling the high pressure pump directly again and see if that improves your load and smoke. If it doesn't, I am starting to wonder if pulling the engine to check the camshaft timing and the rings might be in order. Sorry.

All the best, 2PbFeet
It will be a good learning experience. The more I dig into this thing and study the more I learn. It does seem like 1 degree of adjustment isn't leaving much room. This is the one shim under the fuel pump. Soon I'll get set up and start digging in. I'll post pics and I'm sure have some questions along the way.
 

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vrzff

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Question. What happens if you run it with no air filter?

Next question. Do you have an air compressor? Next time you load test and it starts to stumble, start blasting some air into the filter housing (with filter in). Don't go nuts, just a steady low-force blow. Does it catch back up and stop stumbling?
 

grywitt

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No air filter is the same. I'll try the air trick but I've pretty thoroughly checked the restricted air possibility but ill try anything since i obviously don't have the answer.
 

grywitt

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Quick question? Does any body have a recommendation or warning about gasket kits for these? I see many options on ebay. I just don't want to make the mistake of using junk or are they all the same? I suppose I should change any gasket i open right? I thought I should put new sleeves on the valves too while I'm in there. I guess I will need a spring compressor? I've never taken valves out before. Any advise is welcome and appreciated.
 

vrzff

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Quick question? Does any body have a recommendation or warning about gasket kits for these? I see many options on ebay. I just don't want to make the mistake of using junk or are they all the same? I suppose I should change any gasket i open right? I thought I should put new sleeves on the valves too while I'm in there. I guess I will need a spring compressor? I've never taken valves out before. Any advise is welcome and appreciated.
I generally only change head gaskets, and reuse others that are not torn. I've had very good luck with the Ebay ones.
 

LuckeyD

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The 831 runs at 2 speeds. No load(or lite loads) and heavy load speeds. Attached is how you adjust the Governor.

The magnet setting to hold the governor lever in the stop position is Factory set. If you mess with it all you have to do is adjust it back unscrewing it till it holds the plate again. At low or full loads the plate is about 5/16 to 7/16 of an inch away from the shut down held by the magnet position. The plum wire was used to set the high end of the engine for full load highest setting 3800 RPM. Just use a DMM to measure ACV at Pins A to C of the Governor control in the control box. 178VAC at no loan and 194 at full load, and it shuts off when you shut the gen down, and you are in business.
 

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grywitt

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The 831 runs at 2 speeds. No load(or lite loads) and heavy load speeds. Attached is how you adjust the Governor.

The magnet setting to hold the governor lever in the stop position is Factory set. If you mess with it all you have to do is adjust it back unscrewing it till it holds the plate again. At low or full loads the plate is about 5/16 to 7/16 of an inch away from the shut down held by the magnet position. The plum wire was used to set the high end of the engine for full load highest setting 3800 RPM. Just use a DMM to measure ACV at Pins A to C of the Governor control in the control box. 178VAC at no loan and 194 at full load, and it shuts off when you shut the gen down, and you are in business.
Copy that. Thank you. I feel like I have done this. The wire and lead were in tact when I got the unit so I'm thinking those are at least where the factory put them. The lead has since fallen off but the wire is still in the hole. I did adjust the full load voltage with the actuator held in the the manual start position. I'm having trouble with the actuator arm slipping on its pin but I will get that straightened out if I have to drill a hole and pin it.
 

grywitt

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I made this video of checking the injection timing. Can anyone tell me if it looks right or I'm doing something wrong. This video is with no shims under the injection pump because I haven't put it back in since I decided to see what would happen if I took it out. I watched a u tube video of a guy that said if you are at 3 to 4000 feet try taking out a shim. The one shim it had/ has is the smallest one. You start seeing some fuel at about 4 or right in that area. But the larger amount of fuel is between 3 and 2 marks.
 

grywitt

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I've made a few videos of different tries angles ect. I put the one shim back in and if anything i think it shows more that I need more. Probably it was the fact that I hooked up batteries and had the fuel pump running though.

I'm wondering if someone pulled the pump and only reinstalled it with one shim. I feel like I might need 5 degrees of shims ish. Please if you are taking time to look maybe check my other videos also. That way I don't need to post links to them all.

Thanks again
 

grywitt

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I'm going to set it up with the fuel injector hooked up but not in the cylinder then try to see exactly when it pops. Seems like the only way to know for sure. I'm not fully understanding the TM on how I check the timing. I thought that's what I was doing.
 

grywitt

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So as i add shims and get closer to TDC I think I realize the TM is backwards? The TM says if it's before 16 add shims. What am I seeing wrong? I did check the injector spray and timing and it looks good and happens at about 5 degrees.
Since add far as i can tell now I need to remove shims I don't have to remove that either something is missing from my injection pump.
( a spacer or something) or my actual timing marks are off?
 

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grywitt

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In my experience these engines very rarely need timing adjustment. I have never done it.

The procedure is in the Yanmar service manual.
https://discount-equipment.com/library_files/21623.pdf

Bear in mind that injection starts about 13 degrees BTDC in this engine;
View attachment 954146

All the best, 2PbFeet
Copy that. I just thought maybe someone took it apart and didn't put them all back. The TM says 16-18. .. 13 is what I was seeing. Then the TM says add shims to add degrees but that's backwards right? Closer the the lobe adds degrees yes? More shims means less degrees?
I'm pretty confused about what might be causing this. The injector spray looks good seems to be about on time from what I can tell. The injector seems to pop about 5 degrees. I've found no info about of that is correct but if you start pushing fuel at 13 should be about right.

I took the head off and it looks like this. Seems okay to me but I don't know. The valves seem to be seated pretty well. I sprayed oil on the top with them closed and none seeped through. The cylinder wall has a couple spots that are a little rough/ pitted. I try to get pics of that. You can see it a little in the one Pic. I'm struggling to get the pmg pulled so I can take the side cover off.
I'm happy to take any suggestions on where to go from here.


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grywitt

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The one head stud bolt is really rusty. Not sure what to think of that as well. The head gasket looked okay to me no obvious leakage. I sprayed pb blaster in the cylinder on the piston and it stayed for quite a while. As i moved the piston up and down there did seem to be a spot where it might have leaked. Ill need to play with that more to be sure.
 
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