mep002a injector pump?

[robkiller]

Ok just like everyone i have issues, well i always have issues i mean with the mep002a.

Issue 1

I am leaking, i think oil but not sure off of the bolt that sits on top of the injector pump and behind it a bit. see pic below
Don't know if this has anything to do with the next issue or not.View attachment 405967 If you make them bigger it should point to the leak.

Issue 2

I am getting fuel to the pump but not past the pump to the engine. My fuel solenoid appears to work at least it pulls the arm up when i go to start it.

What do you guys think?

 

[storeman]

Pull throttle/speed control full out and while cranking the unit and the solenoid is retracted, physically lift the throttle mechanism on the side of the IP (mechanism which the solenoid holds down ) to full up position. If it is not rising to that position by itself, likely stiff from gummed fuel and needs to be cleaned. (Requires pulling the IP to remove and clean the throttle.)

I don't know that screw head unless IP is installed 90 degrees out and it is the screw which should be on left side to enable the unit to be timed. Hope this helps.
Jerry

 

[storeman]

On second look, IP looks right. Likely the leak is from the return fuel hose at the top of the IP.

Jerry

 

[robkiller]

Pull throttle/speed control full out and while cranking the unit and the solenoid is retracted, physically lift the throttle mechanism on the side of the IP (mechanism which the solenoid holds down ) to full up position. If it is not rising to that position by itself, likely stiff from gummed fuel and needs to be cleaned. (Requires pulling the IP to remove and clean the throttle.)

I don't know that screw head unless IP is installed 90 degrees out and it is the screw which should be on left side to enable the unit to be timed. Hope this helps.
Jerry

Ok i think i did this correctly. I pulled the throttle all the way out on the unit. I then tried to start it, when the solenoid pulled it up i took at screw driver and tried to raise it higher. It did not go any higher and no fuel was coming from the out ports for the injectors.

When i mean it i am trying to push the solenoid arm up more.

So does this mean anything to you?

Thanks for the help

 

[storeman]

Ok i think i did this correctly. I pulled the throttle all the way out on the unit. I then tried to start it, when the solenoid pulled it up i took at screw driver and tried to raise it higher. It did not go any higher and no fuel was coming from the out ports for the injectors.

When i mean it i am trying to push the solenoid arm up more.

So does this mean anything to you?

You are trying to force the wrong item. Below the solenoid is a lever. When the solenoid is up, the lever should come up. If it doesn't, no fuel to the IP. Push that lever up with one finger while operating starter with other hand. If you are taller than 5' 10" and have 34/35" arm length, you should be able to reach the lever and the switch. Put your finger below the lever first then lean across the 002a and turn the starter switch. If you can't reach the switch, get someone to turn it for you.

Jerry

Gee, I feel like a sex counselor. HEHEHE

 

[treeguy]

I had the very same problem. Upon cranking the engine, fuel would not get past the injection pump and to the injectors. The problem was this broken piece within the injector pump.

Search here on SS and you will find threads that will guide you on how to disassemble and repair the problem. You can order one of these parts but off the top of my head, I can't think of from who. Sorry.

This thin stamped piece of metal breakes because the injection pump (IP) internal parts gum up and get stuck. The cam shaft within the engine is forcing a quill shaft to rotate within the IP. This piece in the picture rides on the quill shaft. The quill shaft spins and also is moved like a plunger by riding on a lobed cam (this is how the fuel pressurizes and the turning action is what the timing of the pump to the engine results in fuel deilivery to the appropreate injector). So the problem is that some parts gum up and sieze and the quill shaft spins and shatters this piece of metal. There fore you will get no fuel out of the pump to the injectors.

I hope this helps.

 

[edgephoto]

I had the very same problem. Upon cranking the engine, fuel would not get past the injection pump and to the injectors. The problem was this broken piece within the injector pump.

Search here on SS and you will find threads that will guide you on how to disassemble and repair the problem. You can order one of these parts but off the top of my head, I can't think of from who. Sorry.

This thin stamped piece of metal breakes because the injection pump (IP) internal parts gum up and get stuck. The cam shaft within the engine is forcing a quill shaft to rotate within the IP. This piece in the picture rides on the quill shaft. The quill shaft spins and also is moved like a plunger by riding on a lobed cam (this is how the fuel pressurizes and the turning action is what the timing of the pump to the engine results in fuel deilivery to the appropreate injector). So the problem is that some parts gum up and sieze and the quill shaft spins and shatters this piece of metal. There fore you will get no fuel out of the pump to the injectors.

I hope this helps.

I think you can buy the part from AMBAC. It is part GU8546.

 

[treeguy]

I forgot to mention, I carefully welded mine back together and ground it to shape. (As well as cleaned up the internal parts of the IP.)

 

[robkiller]

Ok i think i did this correctly. I pulled the throttle all the way out on the unit. I then tried to start it, when the solenoid pulled it up i took at screw driver and tried to raise it higher. It did not go any higher and no fuel was coming from the out ports for the injectors.

When i mean it i am trying to push the solenoid arm up more.

So does this mean anything to you?

You are trying to force the wrong item. Below the solenoid is a lever. When the solenoid is up, the lever should come up. If it doesn't, no fuel to the IP. Push that lever up with one finger while operating starter with other hand. If you are taller than 5' 10" and have 34/35" arm length, you should be able to reach the lever and the switch. Put your finger below the lever first then lean across the 002a and turn the starter switch. If you can't reach the switch, get someone to turn it for you.

Jerry

Gee, I feel like a sex counselor. HEHEHE

Ok so i did what you said i think this time lol. I pushed in the (picture attached) arm with the arrow all the way up until it hit the stop screw on the injector pump. Still no fuel.

Thanks
Rob

 

[robkiller]

I had the very same problem. Upon cranking the engine, fuel would not get past the injection pump and to the injectors. The problem was this broken piece within the injector pump.

Search here on SS and you will find threads that will guide you on how to disassemble and repair the problem. You can order one of these parts but off the top of my head, I can't think of from who. Sorry.

This thin stamped piece of metal breakes because the injection pump (IP) internal parts gum up and get stuck. The cam shaft within the engine is forcing a quill shaft to rotate within the IP. This piece in the picture rides on the quill shaft. The quill shaft spins and also is moved like a plunger by riding on a lobed cam (this is how the fuel pressurizes and the turning action is what the timing of the pump to the engine results in fuel deilivery to the appropreate injector). So the problem is that some parts gum up and sieze and the quill shaft spins and shatters this piece of metal. There fore you will get no fuel out of the pump to the injectors.

I hope this helps.

I am wondering if that is also why i have that leak coming from that peace described in my first post. I am wondering if i broke something like what you are describing inside. What instructions did you use to take that pump off? I don't want to make things worse. lol I think i am at the point i am going to need to take it off the generator.

What does everyone think?

Thanks
Rob

 

[treeguy]

Its already screwed up so what the heck, take it off and open up the IP. That was my mentality. Its not so scary if you look up and read TM 5-6115-584-34, which is available here in the TM menu under generators. There is a fuel return line that comes off the IP and dumps back into the tank. Make sure that is ok, is that your leak? There is also a one way check valve on the fuel supply line after the last filter and before the IP. I found there are two tough parts (complicated) to working on the IP. First is extracting the core cylinder of the IP from its housing. There are two large O-rings around the cylindrical body and its a tight fit, you almost have to press it out then back in when you re-assemble everything. Second it timing the IP to the engine, read the manual and search other threads here on SS this subject has been described. Also note, the fine innards of the IP (quill shaft parts) are shown in the TM but they had a different design than what I found inside.

That plunger thing you are lifting up and down is the fuel shut off. When you turn the switch the plunger electroniclly lifts up to allow throttle operation, if there is a fault (no oil press, or over heat from the sensor in the louvered box) then the unit shuts itself off. To work on it, you could disconnect it but I don't think this will get you any where. I'd really dig into the pump. I also found out the hard way that new pumps that you can buy don't come with a button. The button is thickness specific for each pump and not supposed to be transferable to other pumps. I had ordered a new pump but was able to salvage the old one instead of going through the hassel of figuring out what size button to order.

Anyway, check out the TM, its very helpful.

 

[storeman]

You can download the TM by clicking on the links below any Speddman (our guru) post.

Jerry

 

[robkiller]

Its already screwed up so what the heck, take it off and open up the IP. That was my mentality. Its not so scary if you look up and read TM 5-6115-584-34, which is available here in the TM menu under generators. There is a fuel return line that comes off the IP and dumps back into the tank. Make sure that is ok, is that your leak? There is also a one way check valve on the fuel supply line after the last filter and before the IP. I found there are two tough parts (complicated) to working on the IP. First is extracting the core cylinder of the IP from its housing. There are two large O-rings around the cylindrical body and its a tight fit, you almost have to press it out then back in when you re-assemble everything. Second it timing the IP to the engine, read the manual and search other threads here on SS this subject has been described. Also note, the fine innards of the IP (quill shaft parts) are shown in the TM but they had a different design than what I found inside.

That plunger thing you are lifting up and down is the fuel shut off. When you turn the switch the plunger electroniclly lifts up to allow throttle operation, if there is a fault (no oil press, or over heat from the sensor in the louvered box) then the unit shuts itself off. To work on it, you could disconnect it but I don't think this will get you any where. I'd really dig into the pump. I also found out the hard way that new pumps that you can buy don't come with a button. The button is thickness specific for each pump and not supposed to be transferable to other pumps. I had ordered a new pump but was able to salvage the old one instead of going through the hassel of figuring out what size button to order.

Anyway, check out the TM, its very helpful.

Thanks so much! I will take it apart asap.

 

[LuckyDog]

I can't tell very well from the pictures... But, on mine, I had an oil leak near there also. There is a fitting behind the IP on the block. Look in TM 9-6115-584-24P page 128, Figure 38, Item 32. That was were mine leaked oil. Got the parts to fix it at ACE hardware store.

Don't be afraid of the IP teardown. There are some good posts about it. Go to Advanced Search use Treeguy or LuckyDog as the User and "Jesus clip" as key words . I think that will find you a bunch of info. You can then drill down even further.

I Rebuilt my IP. Shocked the LONG TIME diesel mechanic in whose shop I was working. It really is that simple.

 

[robkiller]

I can't tell very well from the pictures... But, on mine, I had an oil leak near there also. There is a fitting behind the IP on the block. Look in TM 9-6115-584-24P page 128, Figure 38, Item 32. That was were mine leaked oil. Got the parts to fix it at ACE hardware store.

Don't be afraid of the IP teardown. There are some good posts about it. Go to Advanced Search use Treeguy or LuckyDog as the User and "Jesus clip" as key words . I think that will find you a bunch of info. You can then drill down even further.

I Rebuilt my IP. Shocked the LONG TIME diesel mechanic in whose shop I was working. It really is that simple.

This weekend i am going to try and take it off and apart. I am going to get all the information together i can and see how it goes.

 

[DeucesWild11]

I just took mine off and apart, my plunger was stuck so I just bought a new IP and now it runs but smokes and knocks allot, now I got another issue to hunt down but I may take a short break from working on it.. It seems like allot of people on here have the same IP issue, no fuel coming out of the ports..

 

[robkiller]

So i got it off! I found after i took it off the leak i was concerned about in my first post... it appears to be an oil line that oils the pump. So it looks like this is just a bad fitting nothing crazy. Now what should i look for with the pump that would tell me it failed or why it failed?

 

[robkiller]

I had the very same problem. Upon cranking the engine, fuel would not get past the injection pump and to the injectors. The problem was this broken piece within the injector pump.

Search here on SS and you will find threads that will guide you on how to disassemble and repair the problem. You can order one of these parts but off the top of my head, I can't think of from who. Sorry.



This thin stamped piece of metal breakes because the injection pump (IP) internal parts gum up and get stuck. The cam shaft within the engine is forcing a quill shaft to rotate within the IP. This piece in the picture rides on the quill shaft. The quill shaft spins and also is moved like a plunger by riding on a lobed cam (this is how the fuel pressurizes and the turning action is what the timing of the pump to the engine results in fuel deilivery to the appropreate injector). So the problem is that some parts gum up and sieze and the quill shaft spins and shatters this piece of metal. There fore you will get no fuel out of the pump to the injectors.

I hope this helps.

I am not seeing that part in the diagram on page 7-32 of manual TM5-6115-584-34

 

[gimpyrobb]

#26 in the exploded parts pic.

http://www.ambac.net/images/Diese_Fuel_Injection_Pump.pdf

 

[robkiller]

#26 in the exploded parts pic.

http://www.ambac.net/images/Diese_Fuel_Injection_Pump.pdf

I am going to attempt to break it down keep ya updated.