Midwinter Winterization

[mhassett]

A lot of my tools are capable of flight. Especially weed wackers and the like.
MHassett.

 

[RodUSMC1962]

That`s nothing, I have been known to throw my 24 inch bar chain saw.

 

[porkysplace]

...................

 

[UPFINN]

Oh wow this got off topic quick.

Here is an update on the heater issue. This weekend was just too frigid to deal with pulling the radiator and draining the coolant. This week looks to be snowy and I will be too busy to do anything. It does look like we will be warming up into the 30's next week.

Until then I need to figure out how to get the cage fan into the blower housing. I'm thinking of using the horizontal drill press to drill out the welds holding the air fin/plate at the output of the blower. I don't really want to damage it but it has to be done. I can put the plate back with bolts or rivets. I am also wondering if I will regret not putting valves on the heater hoses. The other issue I have is I ran out of 4 inch automotive duct for going between the damper elbow and defroster. I might just use regular house duct. It looks dumb but it is cheap. I also need to find some bullet connectors and the appropriate crimper to install them on the bare wires. Also, I need to put together the alcohol sniffer for the air compressor, which will require 1/8 inch npt fittings.

I should really replace the blinker circuit too, as my blinkers don't blink.

 

[rustystud]

I wouldn't use rivets, as "you never know" when you might have to get back in there. I have replaced my fittings with elbow valves, because "you never know" when you might have to replace a hose or busted heater core. I actually used a Ford 'cable operated' heater valve for the input hose. That way when it's warm I can just push the cable in from the dash inside. I'm getting to old to be crawling all over the engine compartment shutting off valves.

 

[rustystud]

Oh, I forgot to mention that "Eriks" sells the connectors and the tool needed is a "DMC AF8 crimping tool". E-bag has a lot of them right now for around $100.00 average going price.

 

[UPFINN]

I wouldn't use rivets, as "you never know" when you might have to get back in there. I have replaced my fittings with elbow valves, because "you never know" when you might have to replace a hose or busted heater core. I actually used a Ford 'cable operated' heater valve for the input hose. That way when it's warm I can just push the cable in from the dash inside. I'm getting to old to be crawling all over the engine compartment shutting off valves.

Where do you get the elbow valves? Around here I only found 3/8 thread elbow valves, and I need 1/2 inch. When funds allow, my future setup will be to have a coolant filter parallel to the heater, with a cable shut off valve on the input hose.

 

[Another Ahab]

Until then I need to figure out how to get the cage fan into the blower housing. I'm thinking of using the horizontal drill press to drill out the welds holding the air fin/plate at the output of the blower. I don't really want to damage it but it has to be done. I can put the plate back with bolts or rivets. I am also wondering if I will regret not putting valves on the heater hoses. The other issue I have is I ran out of 4 inch automotive duct for going between the damper elbow and defroster. I might just use regular house duct. It looks dumb but it is cheap. I also need to find some bullet connectors and the appropriate crimper to install them on the bare wires. Also, I need to put together the alcohol sniffer for the air compressor, which will require 1/8 inch npt fittings.

See these getting referenced here-and-there:

- sounds worth installing

- are they common off-the-shelf items?

- any particularly recommended brand/ model?

Am I about to get a smack-slap for not dancing to the Google beat?!!

 

[UPFINN]

See these getting referenced here-and-there:

- sounds worth installing

- are they common off-the-shelf items?

- any particularly recommended brand/ model?

Am I about to get a smack-slap for not dancing to the Google beat?!!

The evaporator/sniffer is just a jar with input and output tube, and air bubbles through the alcohol, adding the vapor to the air lines to prevent freeze ups. They are usually homemade, but you can buy them.

 

[UPFINN]

Today I went out to try and loosen the rear radiator draincock to install the tee for my coolant heater hose. I had to remove the air filter to get to it. The good news is the draincock turns to drain coolant, but I can not remove the draincock from the 45 degree npt elbow. I tried heating it, power lube, and using a 9/16 wrench with hammer. I started to round off the edges. I need to figure out a way to get a socket over that draincock, so I can use a 18 inch breaker bar (It took a 18 inch breaker bar to remove all other npt fittings on the truck). If I am stuck using the small wrenches, I will need to remove the solenoid, and maybe oil temp sender.

I have two options. Use my 9/16 wrench with a cheater pipe, or drop some coin for a crowsfoot wrench set so I can use a breaker bar, and it won't round the fitting.

 

[rustystud]

Where do you get the elbow valves? Around here I only found 3/8 thread elbow valves, and I need 1/2 inch. When funds allow, my future setup will be to have a coolant filter parallel to the heater, with a cable shut off valve on the input hose.

I bought mine at "Summit Racing" . The part is " Four Seasons 84703 "
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fss-84703/overview/
Hope this helps.

 

[UPFINN]

Looks like I am going to upgrade to the valved fittings, after yesterdays issue. I borrowed a line wrench from my neighbor to loosen the draincock. I got that. However, it was recomended that I plumb in the intake of the circulating coolant heater to the 3/8npt fitting behind the starter relay instead. I borrowed a 7/16 8 point socket to remove that plug, and when I was pulling on the breaker bar, I heard a crack. I thought "oh good, it is loose". However, when I went to loosen the npt plug on the manifold, the socket exploded, sending shrapnel at my face and dropping socket fragments into the alternator.

Now I need to buy my neighbor a new socket, and figure out if I should get myself a dedicated set of square 4 point impact plug sockets (cheaper), or a 8 point socket set (expensive). I am afraid of breaking more 8 point sockets, so am leaning toward the 4 points, but am afraid of how clumsy they might be.

Meanwhile, I am going to order the proper shutoff valves for the heater lines.

I also need to figure out how to get metal fragments out of the alternator. I'm thinking of pulling the belt and turning it by hand to see if I can hear anything rattle around.

 

[Another Ahab]

Looks like I am going to upgrade to the valved fittings, after yesterdays issue. I borrowed a line wrench from my neighbor to loosen the draincock. I got that. However, it was recomended that I plumb in the intake of the circulating coolant heater to the 3/8npt fitting behind the starter relay instead. I borrowed a 7/16 8 point socket to remove that plug, and when I was pulling on the breaker bar, I heard a crack. I thought "oh good, it is loose". However, when I went to loosen the npt plug on the manifold, the socket exploded, sending shrapnel at my face and dropping socket fragments into the alternator.

Never heard of a socket "exploding" before:

- are you maybe exaggerating?

- or did the thing actually "detonate"?!

 

[UPFINN]

Never heard of a socket "exploding" before:

- are you maybe exaggerating?

- or did the thing actually "detonate"?!

Actually, I would call it more of a "energenic shatter". It looks like I will be getting a set of drain plug sockets. http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2841-2-Inch-Socket-8-Piece/dp/B002GT5VPM/ref=pd_sim_sbs_a_4

It has the sizes 7/16, 9/16, 1/2, and 5/8, which is just what I need. I suppose they will work good for the changing fluids also.

The good news is next week is supposed to get in the 30s! Should be able to finish my projects.

 

[rustystud]

Never heard of a socket "exploding" before:

- are you maybe exaggerating?

- or did the thing actually "detonate"?!

As a mechanic, I can verify that sometimes under extreme conditions sockets do indeed explode ! as if there was a charge of gun powder in it !!! I remember trying to get the warranty on a "Snap-On" socket that grenaded on me. The dealer was not amused at my explanation and said some how I had abused the socket. In the end I did get my new socket.

 

[UPFINN]

Here is a update.

Today after much difficulty I finally pulled the radiator. It appears the leak is in the lower tank behind the sheet metal . I have no idea how I could access the leak to solder it. Pulling the bottom coolant hose was the worst part of the job. I have no pictures, as I was too much in a hurry.

I also noticed that the air compressor belt is full of cracks. It will need to be replaced so I will have to pick up one of those special wrenches to remove the pulley from the compressor to replace the belt. I will also have to remove the belts to the water pump and alternator to change the compressor belt. One issue I am having is trying to move the alternator to loosen the belts. I took out the bolt on the adjustment rail and the alternator won't budge.

Hopefully my parts arrive later this week to finish the project. Until then, we will have to deal with a major snowstorm with snowfall around 15 inches possible.

 

[UPFINN]

Well with the warmer weather this week I got a lot done and updated the tutorial accordingly.

Today we brought the radiator to Larson's Radiator just south in Norway MI. I was quoted $50 to get it tested but it ended up only being around $10. It was washed, steamed, checked for oil residue, pressurized in a dunk tank, and the larger dents were lightly sand blasted to check for cracks. When the radiator was lowered into the dunk tank, to our relief there were no bubbles. The cap vent was plugged, but we got it unplugged. Only major issue is the overflow tube is plugged. Either have to unplug it with a wire, or cut it and splice in a rubber hose.

View attachment 479468

It seems the lower hose clamp was too loose and coolant was dripping from the hose and under the plate where the mounting studs connect. If you see coolant coming out of the mounting studs, it is likely the hose. It is very hard to see right where the hose touches the lower tank walls at the connection. If you notice a leak when the weather starts to get cold, check your clamps!



Now I need to replace the air compressor belt. I don't think this is considered safe.

 

[mjcdetroit]

It seems the lower hose clamp was too loose and coolant was dripping from the hose and under the plate where the mounting studs connect. If you see coolant coming out of the mounting studs, it is likely the hose. It is very hard to see right where the hose touches the lower tank walls at the connection. If you notice a leak when the weather starts to get cold, check your clamps!

View attachment 479471

I am having the exact same problem. I was getting some leaking from some of the other hose connections when the temperature went below zero degrees Fahrenheit. So I figured it was similar, glad that you tore it apart first. And thanks for the pictures.

 

[whiskey357]

Well howdy and all that Cold stuff from North Dakota....everything has a heater........I got a m35A2 last year ....made sure it had a hardtop and heater installed.....had the shop put a block heater for the engine also........I bought the Ether start kit for it on line....had the shop put it on also..that was mid AUG.....This last Xmas she fired just fine.......I have a remote start for the Duece..called the kids..hehehehe looking to buy some chains for it next...My hats off to you doing all of the work in the cold...May it come to a Very good end for you ...later gator.....Nice pixs also....

 

[Another Ahab]

Well howdy and all that Cold stuff from North Dakota....everything has a heater........I got a m35A2 last year ....made sure it had a hardtop and heater installed.....had the shop put a block heater for the engine also........I bought the Ether start kit for it on line....had the shop put it on also..that was mid AUG.....This last Xmas she fired just fine.......I have a remote start for the Duece..called the kids..hehehehe looking to buy some chains for it next...My hats off to you doing all of the work in the cold...May it come to a Very good end for you ...later gator.....Nice pixs also....

Given choice between 1) an in-line coolant heater, or 2) a block heater is it "six of one/ half-a-dozen of the other", or is there strong recommendation of one over the other (for the Deuce). Any strong opinions?