MV Addiction filled. Reis the Beast M1078A0 is born

[M1078MAN]

Well, been some time since my last post on Reis.

I recently finished installing 8202 Grote LED tail lights..Love them. I ordered some LED clearance lights from Midwest

I decided that I no longer liked the factory steering wheel, so am doing something.. I ordered a new wheel.. will post some pics later.

Tires, I am thinking of going with 1400's or maybe MVT's..i just need to get away and down to Tenn (Simps place)

 

[M1078MAN]

\\MAIL CALL//
Finally getting to PM service on Reis. A few filters came in today

 

[M1078MAN]

\\MAIL CALL//
More CAT goodness came in

 

[M1078MAN]

300140 AHU rebuild kit

In my quest to find a more inclusive kit for this pump, i stumbled on this part number which contains numerous matching part numbers for the 64574/58477 pump including the 3 SS recommended parts. 14121/17429/202613

-Items with * come in kit,

-items in Italic/underlined match part number of 64574/58477 and TM

-Items Bold,Italic/underlined, are the SS recommended parts

I was trying to find additional parts in a kit form verse buying separate. This gives you 23 parts included in the kit that are a direct part number match for the FMTV pump and 8 parts you may not us..again, price might dictate. 76.00 is what the kit goes for.

Considering the 3 SS parts alone are 60 dollars, for 76 you get 20 additional parts.

This below list is the breakdown of a pump with similar features [100190,100195] https://www.spxflow.com/en/assets/pdf/100375_parts.pdf

Note-I also see a regulator and oilier made for the pump in the parts illustration.

I did another review to the TM, and found more part number matches

1 36497 1 Check Valve Body
2 *251215 1 O-ring (1.494 X 1.212 X .141)
3 10002 1 Cap Screw (1/4-20 X 3/8 Lg.)
4 *10442 2 Copper Washer (3/8 X 1/4 X 1/32)
5 *10445 1 Compression Spring(.164 O.D. X 23/32 Lg.)
6 *10423 2 Steel Ball (9/32 dia.)
7 10427 1 Pipe Plug (1/8 NPTF)
8 50494 1 Pump Body
9 202568 1 Ball Guide
10 *10261 1 Copper Washer (3/4 X 19/32 X 1/32)
11 36822 1 Filter Adapter (Torque to 35/40ft. lbs. oiled)
12 27680 1 Filter
13 28400 1 Piston
14 *10263 1 Copper Washer (1” X 49/64 X 1/32)
15 33959 1 Cylinder (Torque to 90/100ft. lbs. oiled)
SS 16 *14121 1 U-cup (11/16 X 7/16 X 1/4)
17 202624 1 Retainer
18 *11034 1 Retaining Ring
19 *28979 1 Gasket
20 *13938 1 Compression Spring(1-3/16" I.D. X 5” Lg.)
21 28395 1 Spring Guide
22 *12692 1 Spring (3/16 O.D. X 1-1/2" Lg.)
23 *10303 1 O-ring (7/8 X 3/4 X 1/16)24 338
24 33824 1 Piston Body
25 *14265 2 Piston Ring
26 *28239 1 Gasket
27 37468 1 Rear Head
28 10241 3 Lockwasher
29 11434 5 Soc. Hd. Cap Screw(#10-24 X 1/2 Lg.;Torque to 50/55 in. lbs.)
30 33822 1 Piston End Plate
31 *28183 1 Piston Poppet
32 33845 1 Exhaust Valve Stem
33 *251835 2 O-ring (2-1/2" X 2-5/16" X 3/32; Nitrile)
34 *10300 1 O-ring (5/8 X .468 X .07
35 *251214 1 O-ring (1.002 X .720 X .141)
36 16450 1 Steel Washer
37 16453 1 Screw (#10-24 X 4” Lg.;Apply Loctite 277 or equivalent to external threads.)
38 *205674 1 Cap Screw (#8-32 UNC X 3/8 Lg.)
39 *205679 1 Spring (.485 O.D. X .915 Lg.)
40 *11863 4 Backup Washer(1/2 X 3/8 X 1/16)
42 28387 1 Muffler
43 *34283 1 Gasket
44 21094 2 Bushing
45 *10268 4 O-ring (1/2 X 3/8 X 1/16)
46 *16448 1 Compression Spring(5/16 O.D. X 13/16 Lg.)
47 *12522 1 Disogren O-ring(3/8 X 1/4 X 1/16)
48 *12549 2 O-ring (13/16 X 3/4 X 1/16)
49 15426 1 Drain Tube
50 *10275 1 O-ring (15/16 X 3/4 X 3/32)
51 10807 1 Cap Screw (1/4-20 X 1/2 Lg.)
52 50888 1 Port Blockg
53 14456 6 Screw (Torque to 25/30 in. lbs.)
54 *29992 1 Foam Tube
55 *33853 1 Reservoir Gasket
SS 56 *202613 1 Bumper
57 41633 1 Reservoir
58 15823 4 Lockwasher
SS 59 *17429 1 Backup Washer(2-15/16" X 2-3/4" X .045)
60 37434 1 Air Cylinder (Locate Groove toward top near cover plate.)
61 11151 4 Soc. Hd. Cap Screw(#10-24 X 1-1/4" Lg.)
62 24132 1 Filler Plug
63 50889WH2 1 Cover Plate
64 17428 4 Soc. Hd. Cap Screw(1/4-20 X 4” Lg.
-Torque to 90/100 in. lbs. oiled.NOTE: Cross torque in increments of 50 in. lbs.)

Part numbers marked with an asterisk (*) are contained in Repair Kit No. 300140

I also posted this to the "everything pump related thread"

So I was searching for some more cheaper parts kits, not cheaper, however, did find a rebuild kit or 2 on flee bay

Search 12420589-KIT , 150$ per kit

 

[M1078MAN]

Today was an adventure, morning was spent traveling to Lynchburg to meet up with a fellow SS addict and check out his very nice collection of MV's to include 3116 powered M35A3, a Small Emplacement Excavator (See), 1941 Jeep (project), M37 Runner w 318, MEP-803A 10Kw Gen on M116A3 (full up and running) and I hear it might be for sale, a M105 trailer, also for sale, Also has some M35A3 Hutchinson Rims. I think I also saw a M101

I wish I had the $$, I would have towed that genset away. I will let him pipe in to disclose additional details

After that great 3 hour tour, I spent a few hours rebuilding the Dryer, which was in really good condition, although I did find the seal check valve #19 in the TM was bent and degraded. I really didn't have that much crud (water/oil), however, felt good to have all new seals and a clean fresh desiccant installed
19 KFOZZ 06721 C11472J .SEAL,CHECK VALVE................... 1

Problem developed, while pumping up cab with hand pump, about 1/4 way up, the pump seemed to starve for hyd fluid, so I topped it off and it did this a few times in the lifting process, suddenly it seemed I had no return of hyd fluid to the hand pump, so each time I put fluid in the pump, it would be forced out the top of the AHU reservoir. Anyone have any ideas what I may have F'd up on the rebuild.

Also spent a few minutes dropping 20+qts of engine oil and filter, and installing new filter and oil.

I would like to rebuild my CTIS wheel valves, anyone have the part number for the kit, found the rebuild kit

599913 Spicer

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

Today was an adventure, morning was spent traveling to Lynchburg to meet up with a fellow SS addict and check out his very nice collection of MV's to include 3116 powered M35A3, a Small Emplacement Excavator (See), 1941 Jeep (project), M715 Runner w 318, MEP-803A 10Kw Gen on M116A3 (full up and running) and I hear it might be for sale, a M105 trailer, also for sale, Also has some M35A3 Hutchinson Rims. I think I also saw a M101

I wish I had the $$, I would have towed that genset away. I will let him pipe in to disclose additional details

After all these great posts about the RtB, and living only an hour distant, we finally met up. Damn good dude you are. Only disappointment in it all is that you didn't meet the real Sgt. Jiggins (see avatar).

Glad to be able to show off the fleet a bit. Would love to take the M37 for a cruise down the road to Roanoke once I get those rear discs on the old lady. I have a feeling a proper Power Wagon may fair better than an M35 on Potts Mountain Jeep Trail anyhow...

 

[TomTime]

Problem developed, while pumping up cab with hand pump, about 1/4 way up, the pump seemed to starve for hyd fluid, so I topped it off and it did this a few times in the lifting process, suddenly it seemed I had no return of hyd fluid to the hand pump, so each time I put fluid in the pump, it would be forced out the top of the AHU reservoir. Anyone have any ideas what I may have F'd up on the rebuild.

I'm still going through the same problem you are going through now. You are the first person on here that I have found that has the same problem as I do.

When I got my M1083A1 the cab would not go up, rebuilt the cab latch due to leaking. Hand pump would starve for hydraulic fluid and after refilling it twice I found that hydraulic fluid was coming out the air/hydraulic pump filler hole. The air/hydraulic would not work, rebuilt (took apart and cleaned), now the air/hydraulic pump works as it should. The hand pump still pumps into the air/hydraulic pump and has no return hydraulic fluid. I replaced the hand pump with a NOS one but still the same problem. I checked the filters they show on the TM's, they were clean. Ran the lines, there are good and are hooked up correctly. Still trying to find the problem and have been working on it for several weeks now, in between other projects on the truck.

Sorry, I don't have answer for you. If I find the issue I'll let you know, if you do, I would GREATLY appreciate a heads up, this issue has been mind numbing!

Tom.

 

[M1078MAN]

After all these great posts about the RtB, and living only an hour distant, we finally met up. Damn good dude you are. Only disappointment in it all is that you didn't meet the real Sgt. Jiggins (see avatar).

Glad to be able to show off the fleet a bit. Would love to take the M37 for a cruise down the road to Roanoke once I get those rear discs on the old lady. I have a feeling a proper Power Wagon may fair better than an M35 on Potts Mountain Jeep Trail anyhow...

Next time on the REAL Jigs,

I am all in for Potts, be a cool MV gathering, throw some meat on the grill, tell some stories and put the rubber to the trail.. Just the look of the civilians seeing these units on the trail would be fun, you should bring the SEE

I'm still going through the same problem you are going through now. You are the first person on here that I have found that has the same problem as I do.

When I got my M1083A1 the cab would not go up, rebuilt the cab latch due to leaking. Hand pump would starve for hydraulic fluid and after refilling it twice I found that hydraulic was coming out the air/hydraulic pump filler hole. The air/hydraulic would not work, rebuilt (took apart and cleaned), now the air/hydraulic pump works as it should. The hand pump still pumps into the air/hydraulic pump and has no return hydraulic fluid. I replaced the hand pump with a NOS one but still the same problem. I checked the filters they show on the TM's, they were clean. Ran the lines, there are good and are hooked up correctly. Still trying to find the problem and have been working on it for several weeks now, in between other projects on the truck.

Sorry, I don't have answer for you. If I find the issue I'll let you know, if you do, I would GREATLY appreciate a heads up, this issue has been mind numbing!

Tom.

You got it Tom, I hope to tear into it this weekend

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

Just the look of the civilians seeing these units on the trail would be fun, you should bring the SEE

Now That is one for the retirement bucket list: a 120mi RT voyage at 35mph. Whew. Now... when that M936A2 shows up with a 10ton trailer... You're on!

 

[M1078MAN]

Dropped the 20+ qts from transmission and transfer case. Picked up the filters and was looking at the TM verse Allison book, and Alison mentions TES295/TES468 fluid for the trans, I drained 15w40. Going to do the flush, to include converter and use this Synthetic TES295 John Deere — HD Synthetic Transmission Fluid (App Num: AN-191014) . I happen to have 4 pails of it laying about.

On-Highway Fluids

Allison Transmission approved fluids are tested to meet our stringent requirements, which ensure maximum transmission durability with minimal downtime.

www.allisontransmission.com

Anyone know of a reason not to run this fluid

 

[Mullaney]

Dropped the 20+ qts from transmission and transfer case. Picked up the filters and was looking at the TM verse Allison book, and Alison mentions TES295/TES468 fluid for the trans, I drained 15w40. Going to do the flush, to include converter and use this Synthetic TES295 John Deere — HD Synthetic Transmission Fluid (App Num: AN-191014) . I happen to have 4 pails of it laying about.

On-Highway Fluids

Allison Transmission approved fluids are tested to meet our stringent requirements, which ensure maximum transmission durability with minimal downtime.

www.allisontransmission.com

Anyone know of a reason not to run this fluid

.
Other than "what you had was working just fine".

Remember, the military could (can) buy anything.
They have no shortage of money or fluids.

Just something to consider. I have read stories on this board saying their shift points improved. I have heard the exact same story the other way where shift points "went to pot". Dunno. I am surely not the expert, but logic says fresh fluid is good. Can't say for sure if the clutchpacks in the 15w40 are better or worse or impregnated with something that won't ever be happy with JD Synthetic.

IMO, it is a guessing game. One way - not much guess work. The other way, you change a LOT and hope for the best.

 

[M1078MAN]

Very valid points Mullaney..Now the paul harvey.

When I first purchased the truck, truck had a transmission problem, which was tracked down to an unplugged connection at the shift control unit. I went through several iterations of hard 4/5 shifts, I mean neck snapping shifts up/and down. I did relearn, checked throttle pedal binding and all the things that might be the cause. Then I just have lived with it, being very conscious of that herky jerky quirk, (with the thought in the back of my mind, man, there has got to be some forces at work in the clutch packs when she snaps.)

fast forward after 1800 miles I thought it was a good time to do trans PM and started researching. .found your same valid points on multiple places to the good and too the bad. What tipped the scales you might ask..

Well while preparing to conduct the services and having not driven the truck in a few weeks, I found some condensation on the tip of the dip stick, wasn't allot, but it was, fluid otherwise was in great condition, a nice golden, no signs of slippage (that was a point-I waffled again) not a single bit of metal affixed to either drain plug and nearest I can tell fluid may have been changed in 2011 as it was marked with 8/2011 on the filter housing (most of my filters had the same or similar markings) So I waffled, do I or do I not. Then recently saw a video from another well respected MTV owner who did the flush, and it as you said improved his shifts. So I kicked my waffle off the fence and having the fluid laying about, and Allison recommends, decided to move forward.

I truly value the expert opinions from all on SS, and that coupled with previous life experiences (that's a whole old level of motor pool madness) I hope I am making the best decision. Either way, input is greatly appreciated, welcomed and highly valued, regardless of which side of the fence you reside and really, that's what makes this site so great, the ability to freely post opinions


RIch

 

[Mullaney]

Very valid points Mullaney..Now the paul harvey.

When I first purchased the truck, truck had a transmission problem, which was tracked down to an unplugged connection at the shift control unit. I went through several iterations of hard 4/5 shifts, I mean neck snapping shifts up/and down. I did relearn, checked throttle pedal binding and all the things that might be the cause. Then I just have lived with it, being very conscious of that herky jerky quirk, (with the thought in the back of my mind, man, there has got to be some forces at work in the clutch packs when she snaps.)

fast forward after 1800 miles I thought it was a good time to do trans PM and started researching. .found your same valid points on multiple places to the good and too the bad. What tipped the scales you might ask..

Well while preparing to conduct the services and having not driven the truck in a few weeks, I found some condensation on the tip of the dip stick, wasn't allot, but it was, fluid otherwise was in great condition, a nice golden, no signs of slippage (that was a point-I waffled again) not a single bit of metal affixed to either drain plug and nearest I can tell fluid may have been changed in 2011 as it was marked with 8/2011 on the filter housing (most of my filters had the same or similar markings) So I waffled, do I or do I not. Then recently saw a video from another well respected MTV owner who did the flush, and it as you said improved his shifts. So I kicked my waffle off the fence and having the fluid laying about, and Allison recommends, decided to move forward.

I truly value the expert opinions from all on SS, and that coupled with previous life experiences (that's a whole old level of motor pool madness) I hope I am making the best decision. Either way, input is greatly appreciated, welcomed and highly valued, regardless of which side of the fence you reside and really, that's what makes this site so great, the ability to freely post opinions


RIch

.
Thanks Rich! I have to agree with you. There is real magic to this site. Lots of good information shared freely...
I will be interested to know how your replacement goes - and hoping for the best.


Tim Mullaney

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

The only thing I can add here, and this is only based on my experience with the 1545 in my M35A3:

John Deere fluid is a good the choice - according to the 2 guys who rebuilt the 1545 for me before it went back in the truck. I know you already have a couple/few buckets of that expensive stuff sitting around, so, bear with me on this last bit: the only part they were adamant about, for my specific transmission, because of the upgraded clutch discs they'd installed (metal-tipped green paper if that means anything to anybody??? - I'm an IT guy for pete's sake), was to use TY6342.

Which is John Deere Low Viscosity Hy-Gard Transmission and Hydraulic Oil.

I don't know what others' rigs shift like, but I can tell you mine is very, very, very smooth. Very. Even into reverse. Did I say very. Now watch Murphy make me pay for that.

 

[Sgt Jiggins]

There is real magic to this site. Lots of good information shared freely...
I will be interested to know how your replacement goes - and hoping for the best.

I don't know about you guys, but I have more than enough going on to keep me busy in life. That I keep coming back to this one site... yea... it's a gem.

 

[M1078MAN]

\\MAIL CALL//
Added additional 100AH Battery to my solar array, up to 400AH..goal is 800 to 1000AH
--LightCatcher Solar- Solar Specific 100Ah 12V Deep Cycle AGM Battery-price 176.99, free shipping

//ORDERED\\
--6 each CTIS Wheel Valve rebuild kits, Part Number 2264-599913 with shipping 18.56 per kit. Going to wait to post information until I actually recv. I just recd a call from the vendor, 90 day BO, however, they noted the need for and we may get lucky with less then 30 days

If I am successful, I might just order extra extra kits for stock..

The wife is starting to get mad, parts are stacking up in the living room, so I need to get busy.

 

[M1078MAN]

\\MAIL CALL//
Received my rebuild kit 300140 Rev14 for the AHU, paid a little more for it then before, but 122.00 from http://www.ohiohydraulic.com/store/

 

[M1078MAN]

//ORDERED\\

2 each NEWPOWER 210Watt Solar Panels, which should give me 800 total once installed. 204.99 each


Sleezbay search Newpowa 210W Watts＞200W Solar Panel 12V Mono Off Grid Charger for RV Boat Camper

 

[M1078MAN]

By the way, if anyone has a AHU they want to donate to the cause, working or not, let me know, would love to have an extra to play with.

Drop me a message if so

 

[M1078MAN]

Some more progress on RTB,
Tore the AHU apart again, replaced some questionable seals and triple checked I had it together correctly. still the same frothing from the exhaust.. I am pulling my hair out.. I contacted SPX to see if they could give me some insight to the challenge I am experiencing and had to order more hyd fluid.

Aeroshell 41 for Aircraft - Mineral Hydraulic Fluid - 2 Gallon
Out for delivery today-loving prime

So I moved on to tires. I got a smoking deal for 2 with tits ZXL's, so started prepping rims, spray down lugs and studs with PB blaster. Ordered up balancing beads by counter act

Wheel Tire Balancing 14 Ounce Counteract Beads - Four Pack of Counteract 14 oz TA Truck Service Tire Balancing Beads.

Solar panels out for delivery today as well..gona be a busy weekend