• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

 

My Crew Cab Deuce Build

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Got the sheet metal today, and only $125 for a 4x8 sheet of 16 ga and a 4x10 sheet of 18 ga...WoooHooo!

metal.jpg

Oh yeah, also confirmed that the middle drivers side brake cylinder is leaking fluid...so guess I'll be ordering those today as well.
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Man, this took longer than I thought it would. Still have some small rust pockets to address along the door frames, then I'll hit it with the Ospho. Still have to repair the big hole under the drivers seat and transmission tunnel, then it's on to the roof.

rear floor1.jpgrear floor2.jpg

I know it's ugly, but no one will see it once it's covered rhino liner!
 

Reckless

Member
228
0
16
Location
Georgia
Looking good! Is the hardtop actually 18 gauge? Or is that just what your using? I've been debating on 16 or 18 for the top.
 

jwynne808

New member
7
0
0
Location
Mobile, AL
I just read this entire thread and really enjoyed it. It has given me some great ideas. This is the first time I have seen someone turn their deuce into a crew cab. I had heard of it but never seen it. Yours looks awesome. Would you happen to know of any 2 1/2 ton deuces for sale around Jacksonville? I am only about 5 1/2 hours from there so if i could find one their it would be better than driving to Memphis. Thanks in advance
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Looking good! Is the hardtop actually 18 gauge? Or is that just what your using? I've been debating on 16 or 18 for the top.
I took two pieces of metal with me when I bought the sheet metal and had the guy mic them just to be certain (one from the floor and one from the top); the floor measured 16 gauge and the roof 18 gauge. The roof is considerably thinner than the floor, much like the side sheet metal. However, I most likely will fill in the side panels between the windows with 16 gauge as it is easier to work with.
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
I just read this entire thread and really enjoyed it. It has given me some great ideas. This is the first time I have seen someone turn their deuce into a crew cab. I had heard of it but never seen it. Yours looks awesome. Would you happen to know of any 2 1/2 ton deuces for sale around Jacksonville? I am only about 5 1/2 hours from there so if i could find one their it would be better than driving to Memphis. Thanks in advance
Thanks. There are actually numerous threads on here, just search for "crew cab" and you'll find them. Many are what gave me the inspiration and some almost a step by step on how to do it. Of course I added my own twist on it, and will be adding an even bigger one after the crew cab is finished. My original project was going to be a crew cabbed M109, but decided to do this then build my own camper/box on the back. This portion will be much more involved and labor intensive, but when complete will definitely be one of a kind!

Also, most that do crew cabs single out the rear axles, of which intend to leave them dual.

There is one M35 that is sitting in a semi truck sales lot, been there for months. Not sure of the price, never bothered to stop in. I know there are a couple south of me...just look on Craigslist.
 
Last edited:

Welder Sam

New member
1,430
6
0
Location
Glendale, Arizona
Im about 2 weeks from starting a crew build, myself. Id really like to leave space for the spare between the cab and bed. Im liking the way you went for that but.. ill have to play with various mock-ups to see whats best for mine. You're doing a helluva job though! :thumbup:
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Im about 2 weeks from starting a crew build, myself. Id really like to leave space for the spare between the cab and bed. Im liking the way you went for that but.. ill have to play with various mock-ups to see whats best for mine. You're doing a helluva job though! :thumbup:
Even with taking the vent out of the second cab there will be plenty of leg room. This is especially true should i opt to use the seats from an extended cab truck versus a full size king cab truck. Not sure where I'll be putting the spare tire...when I get one.
 

Welder Sam

New member
1,430
6
0
Location
Glendale, Arizona
I run 395's so ill need ALOT of room. Hate to put it in the bed because then the mule wont even come close to fitting. May have to let the bed hang over the bumperettes more than id like. I dunno yet. Dont think ill do a thread on it either. We'll see.

I appreciate what youre doing here.
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Got the roof rails installed today and the garage cleaned so I can move the roof there to weld in the sheet metal. Also picked up a gallon of Ospho at Home Depot. Definitely a believer in this stuff, as I used it on the frame work of an S10 Pickup that ten years later still has no rust on it where it was applied.

roof1.jpg

Supposed to rain tomorrow... :(
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Are you just going to bend the metal as you go (from side to side) to form the curves at each end?
I read in some other crew cab build threads that the sheet metal kinda "rolls into place". Looking at it tonight with the top in the garage, I may add two more cross bars at the roll points to help it roll in. I'll also be clamping the ends down, so hoping that helps form it in place. Analyzing everything in hopes of doing it right the first time...
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Just take your time and be gentle with it.
Yeah, took my time, measured several times, left it a little wide to allow for error and I still somehow got it wrong. So instead of having one piece to weld in I will now have three pieces to weld in. Only saving grace is that the three pieces makes it easier to work with. The rolled sides came out good too. The 18 gauge didn't simply roll into place, but it wasn't that hard to made a few gently bends in it. Should have the entire top completed by Sunday at the latest. I'll post pics then.
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Well got the top welded together, the paint removed from the exterior side and coated with Ospho. Didn't come out perfect, but I'm no professional, and heck, it's an Army truck. A little body filler to smooth out some of the bumps and it'll be ready for paint. I must say though I'm most proud of the rolled sides, as I hand rolled those and I think this turned out the best. Rolling 18 gauge isn't as easy as it sounds.... Must credit my son for some of the work, as I let him spot weld one seam of the top.

Also cut out the huge rust hole under the drivers side seat. Should get that welded in tomorrow or Monday, as well as building the panels between the cab windows.

newtop.jpgdside floor.jpg
 
Last edited:

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Is it just the pictures or does the roof slope inward towards the middle? If it does it will collect water and promote rust.
Very observant! Yes there is a slight inward slope, mostly because I had to split the top due to a error in measuring (don't ask me how I did that) and because the front part of the roof has an inward slope as well due to warping. I tried my best to pound it out and keep it that way, but even the slightest touch it would snap back inward (this was both before and after welding). I filled in the gap with a little body filler today in hopes to alleviate the severity, but believe it or not the water seems to naturally roll down the slope and off the front when level. I'll see how it works out once everything is sanded and primed.
 

FatBuddhaBoo

Member
330
8
18
Location
Jacksonville, Fl
Got the floor completely finished today. Also did a test fit of the top on the cab after I did some body filler work to fill in some of the low spots and cover up/smooth out the weld seams.

cab roof.jpgwhole floor.jpgpside floor.jpgdside floor2.jpg

Next to do: Window and interior filler pieces between the cabs and a small patch where the original slave cable receptacle location is. This will complete all welding on the cab. Also taking the tunnel covers to work tomorrow so I can sandblast them.
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks