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My just purchased Deuce!

ZRacer

ZRacer

New member
45
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0
Location
Valley of the Sun, AZ
Hello all,

I am the proud owner of a 1970 M35A2C with a D turbo, full bows and cover, less than 140 hours on the engine at the time of pickup (51K miles though). I drove it back from Santa Clarita, CA to my home in Arizona. Let me tell you, 400 miles (it took about 10 hours), in a hot, dirty, LOUD, bumpy military vehicle was not a trip that I will forget (and I loved every minute of it! :-D )! An eBay deal for $3100. It ran GREAT all the way home, never got too hot, even through the desert at 104 degrees F, and climbing those hills (only had to downshift to 4th twice the entire trip).

There are some problems that I need to take care of, however. First, the steering wheel has all three spokes cracked - definitely concerned about that. I think I need a new one.

My engine stop pull handle is sticking (doesn't work - I am having to kill the engine by starting out in 5th gear and stalling it - not the best way, I know).

The parking brake is stuck and I can't pull the handle up - any ideas? Horn doesn't work - maybe it is just disconnected but I haven't had a chance to check it yet.

Wipers don't seem to work (not that I will likely need them much in Arizona!).

Tires - many have sidewall cracks - how do you know when the cracks are so bad that you need to replace them?

My driver's side window is badly cracked, but they gave me a new one (in a box) with the truck. Is it easy to replace by a novice or should I call a glass shop?

Some minor rust around the tailgate. Is it enough to just take a grinder to the rust spots and then spray some flat black Rustoleum on the spots or is there a better way (short of re-painting the entire truck or tailgate)?

Thanks in advance for any advice!
 

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mcmullag

mcmullag

Member
919
13
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Location
Colorado Springs, CO region
this and that

My steering wheel has big cracks where the spokes meet the outer rim and you can see the steel in there, doesnt bother me.

park brake, maybe slide under there and look at it, it resides on back of transfer case, maybe you could take a spray can of brake cleaner to it, see if it is all rusted or gunked up.

Engine stop, if you have someone try to move the lever while you watch in the engine bay (engine off) on the back of the injection pump, you may be able to see how to adjust it (phillip screwstop into a wire cable) and see where it needs lube (cable goes up into sheathing) . I just adjusted one on a new to me truck, it was easy.

surface rust on tailgate, sand it, wash it, paint it. Rustoleum primer first before paint may help.

wipers- after you turn on the air valve to them, try helping them get started with the little manual handle kinda built into the side of the air cylinder built into each one.

cracks in tires, i have been driving all summer on some tires with big cracks on the inner sidewalls, replace them if you can but you may be able to get by for awhile. put the best tires on the front axle.
Hopefully you can find some MV buddies in AZ. Look at their trucks in person, talk to them.
just my two cents, hope it helps.
 
AceHigh

AceHigh

Well-known member
2,175
30
48
Location
Princeton WV Lake City FL
There are some problems that I need to take care of, however. First, the steering wheel has all three spokes cracked - definitely concerned about that. I think I need a new one.

New steering wheel from Eriks, $150, but you need a puller!

My engine stop pull handle is sticking (doesn't work - I am having to kill the engine by starting out in 5th gear and stalling it - not the best way, I know).

Probably Eriks too

The parking brake is stuck and I can't pull the handle up - any ideas? Horn doesn't work - maybe it is just disconnected but I haven't had a chance to check it yet.

Usually parking brake is the cable, I think about $40 from several suppliers. A pain to install

Wipers don't seem to work (not that I will likely need them much in Arizona!).

Can maybe rebuild, easier to get new motors. Are they getting air?

Tires - many have sidewall cracks - how do you know when the cracks are so bad that you need to replace them?

When they start popping.

My driver's side window is badly cracked, but they gave me a new one (in a box) with the truck. Is it easy to replace by a novice or should I call a glass shop?

There are several threads about this. Fairly easy.

Some minor rust around the tailgate. Is it enough to just take a grinder to the rust spots and then spray some flat black Rustoleum on the spots or is there a better way (short of re-painting the entire truck or tailgate)?
Click to expand...
Your fix sounds just fine! Enjoy your new ride!!! :driver:
 
DUG

DUG

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,799
73
48
Location
Mesquite, NV
For the wipers - disconnect the feed hose and squirt air tool oil in. Run an air hose inside from your shop compressor (or your buddies). Put a blow nozzle on and blow air in to see if the do anything. As suggested earlier you might need to help them along. If that gets them going smoothly reconnect the feed hose and try them on truck air. If they don't work use the TM to track down the leak or lack of air.

The window is very easy to replace. It helps to have smaller arms so I usually have my son do it. You'll want to be careful with the clips or just have new ones handy.
 
Jimma

Jimma

Active member
1,281
3
38
Location
Hartwell, GA
Welcome to the club! I must say thats one fast truck. If my math is correct that means you can run about 350 miles per hour to go 51,000 miles in 140 hours. Why fly.......:p
 
92RT-TT

92RT-TT

New member
118
1
0
Location
Hudson, WI
Jimma said:
Welcome to the club! I must say thats one fast truck. If my math is correct that means you can run about 350 miles per hour to go 51,000 miles in 140 hours. Why fly.......:p
Click to expand...
err haha... 400 miles in about 10 hours... I'm no math major but I think its closer to 40 mph lol. :-D
 
goldneagle

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,514
1,018
113
Location
Slidell, LA
I had similar problems with my M109A2. My Engine Kill cable was frozen. Found out you can replace the cable itself without replacing the whole assembly. It uses the same cable as a cheap generic throttle cable for a lawnmower. I bout one and used just the steel cable to replace the cable on the kill lever assembly. If you need help figuring out how to replace it I can guide you step by step. PM me if you need the help.
 
RAYZER

RAYZER

Well-known member
3,380
59
48
Location
sanford/florida
Welcome to the addiction! As for the horn, check the wire that comes out of the end of the steering gear box and plugs in to the wire that goes to the horn ,unplug it there And ground the horn end of the wire,should blow when u ground that wire,start there.
 
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