My M813 gets a turbo!

US6x4

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To change the direction of the tank's outlet pipe i sourced a 1 1/4" mandrel bent 90° stainless elbow with rolled beads from a fuel filler neck company and then shortened one leg to allow it to fit between the tank pipe and the engine block.

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The TIG guy said that "walking the cup" was especially difficult on this because the polished stainless was so slippery.
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Now I just need to find a heavy-duty yet flexible radiator hose to connect this elbow to the oil cooler? housing.
 
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US6x4

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This weekend was all about freshening up the paint on the RH side of the engine. Before I always thought my engine had OD Green and Cummins industrial tan parts added to a charcoal gray engine, but after degreasing and pressure washing it I'm convinced that the entire engine is still gray. There was a lot of 383 green overspray on the block just above the frame rail which made it hard to discern.

Degreased and pressure washed 3 times, then ground down rust with angle grinder & cupped wire brush, then again with dremel tool & tiny wire brush, then scuffed with maroon scotchbright, then blown off with air hose, then washed/scrubbed with sudsy car wash, rinsed, and blown off dry with air hose. Got it masked up and then gave it 2 coats of Cummins charcoal gray.

Maybe I had a flair up of CDO or something because I also ran a thread chaser down every tapped boss on the block to clean up the threads.

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It's interesting to see what's gray and what's green; kinda gives you clues as to what Cummins supplied and what AM General supplied such as the dipstick tube, the road draft tube, and all of the little brackets bolted to the block which were green. I'm just going to maintain the colors that I find and if its just all rust I'll paint things that hang off the engine 383 green while the block will stay gray.
 

Mullaney

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This weekend was all about freshening up the paint on the RH side of the engine. Before I always thought my engine had OD Green and Cummins industrial tan parts added to a charcoal gray engine, but after degreasing and pressure washing it I'm convinced that the entire engine is still gray. There was a lot of 383 green overspray on the block just above the frame rail which made it hard to discern.

Degreased and pressure washed 3 times, then ground down rust with angle grinder & cupped wire brush, then again with dremel tool & tiny wire brush, then scuffed with maroon scotchbright, then blown off with air hose, then washed/scrubbed with sudsy car wash, rinsed, and blown off dry with air hose. Got it masked up and then gave it 2 coats of Cummins charcoal gray.

Maybe I had a flair up of CDO or something because I also ran a thread chaser down every tapped boss on the block to clean up the threads.

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View attachment 840001

It's interesting to see what's gray and what's green; kinda gives you clues as to what Cummins supplied and what AM General supplied such as the dipstick tube, the road draft tube, and all of the little brackets bolted to the block which were green. I'm just going to maintain the colors that I find and if its just all rust I'll paint things that hang off the engine 383 green while the block will stay gray.
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Clean and Sharp looking!
Very nice indeed.

Lots of work to bolt it all back together, but it will look brand new when you are finished.
 

US6x4

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Well, I'm getting down to the nuts & bolts details and I've been painting parts as they're ready. For the high temp parts (manifolds to exhaust stack) I'm using Dura Heat 2.0 and I finally got far enough along to get a start on that. This paint is made for firearm suppressors and it can handle up to 1500° F so it will be good enough for my operating range. Their od green looks like a match for 383 green so that's a plus.
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All the parts have been degreased, roughed up with scotchbright, washed clean, masked off with powder coating tape, and hung up.
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Since the parts and paint are so spendy and I don't know this HVLP equipment, I had the paint applicator at work spray the first coat of this wet paint on and he nailed it! This first coat on these 4 pieces used about $80 worth of paint...yikes! It will get a second coat and then a 20 minute bake in the oven at 350°F after it air dries. The painter said this stuff flashed over to flat & rough as soon as it laid on (almost instantaneous).

I hade to order more paint to have enough to finish the other parts so there will be more to follow on this subject.
 

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WillWagner

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You can trim up to an inch off of the rubber elbows to gain clearance if needed. I had to do that many times when putting new engines in old machines. Mark them, use silicone spray to lube the cut and a new razor knife. The cuts will look factory.
 

US6x4

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You can trim up to an inch off of the rubber elbows to gain clearance if needed. I had to do that many times when putting new engines in old machines. Mark them, use silicone spray to lube the cut and a new razor knife. The cuts will look factory.
Good idea, Will - I'll take a closer look at that when I get to final assembly
 

US6x4

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While I'm waiting for paint to dry i have time to catch up on household stuff and replenish the drained supply of brownie points I've cashed in working on this turbo. The only change I've done recently is to remove the pipe plug and replace it with the oil drain tube fitting.
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