rsh4364
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Are we being pranked?That is to simple to even answer! The search method does not have all answers,some things you just figure out.
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Nebulous, M1009
- Thread starter kkcshipp
- Start date
kkcshipp
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- Elizabethtown, KY
No pranks, just gotta find out what it is that's all.
CUCVLOVER
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- west Tennessee, just outside Milan
Good luck with the build.
NovacaineFix
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- San Diego, California
Congrats on the new project and Greetings from Very Southern California.
LMC has a lot of parts for your needs, they already got a lump some of my cash. Some how, I seemed to have ordered doubles of some items, must have been the beer.
Anyway, one thing 6.2's or any diesel does not like is overheating. If you have the square stock fuel filter and housing, be on the look out for fuel leaks, I switched over to a spin on for easier maintenance.
Don't be afraid if it is still the 24 volt system, mine is and it works fine, most people just don't understand how it works. It's actually fairly simple once you really look at the design of it.
The one thing if you can find one, get yourself a spare fuel cap. Extremely hard to find [in good shape], parts stores are no use for finding one.
Otherwise, have fun and post some more pics.
LMC has a lot of parts for your needs, they already got a lump some of my cash. Some how, I seemed to have ordered doubles of some items, must have been the beer.
Anyway, one thing 6.2's or any diesel does not like is overheating. If you have the square stock fuel filter and housing, be on the look out for fuel leaks, I switched over to a spin on for easier maintenance.
Don't be afraid if it is still the 24 volt system, mine is and it works fine, most people just don't understand how it works. It's actually fairly simple once you really look at the design of it.
The one thing if you can find one, get yourself a spare fuel cap. Extremely hard to find [in good shape], parts stores are no use for finding one.
Otherwise, have fun and post some more pics.
kkcshipp
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- Elizabethtown, KY
I kinda new it as the original tires were close. Gonna have to trim the right inner fender for the 33s not to rub. Maybe the body is on crooked or something. I gave the shop the go ahead to trim an inch from the inner fender. I"ll make it look right later. Anybody else have this issue? Frame doesn't look bent but heck, it's 29 years old...some things are to be expected.
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kkcshipp
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- Elizabethtown, KY
BTW, to the man who scanned the entire CUCV Parts and Illustration Catalog: "You are da man!" I still have not found through the diagram how the dang glove box stays in. Anybody got a pic they can shoot me before I "fabricate" some 550 cord?
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joshuak
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Not sure why you're 33's rub. Mine have plenty of clearance... Sure you don't want to recheck the alignment of your body parts before you set the trimmer loose? Your monkey, spank as you wish.
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kkcshipp
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- Elizabethtown, KY
Great video Recovry4x4; I think I'll fabricate something instead of buying another plastic tub which will break. The small cut, it's not that noticeable in the close pic, the new tires in the other. One can see how close the right inner fender is to the tire. Weird, the other side is perfectly balanced. I have noticed a shake and shimmy on the rear at 55mph and when letting off the throttle. Ideas anyone? 
NovacaineFix
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If your tires are balanced and everything else seems to be in order, could possibly be the rear leaf springs.
My 1009 is in need of leaf springs all around, but more noticeable in the front. If you have driven it for some miles, check to see if you have any feathering on the treads, basically one tread is slightly higher and typically every other one.
If it were a harmonic shimmy, like it comes and goes in a rhythmic fashion, then it may be a driveshaft that is out of balance or a u-joint starting to go. But I would put my bets on leaf springs.
Easy way to tell, drive through a dip or a speed bump and see how the rear end reacts. If it dribbles like a basketball, springs.
My 1009 is in need of leaf springs all around, but more noticeable in the front. If you have driven it for some miles, check to see if you have any feathering on the treads, basically one tread is slightly higher and typically every other one.
If it were a harmonic shimmy, like it comes and goes in a rhythmic fashion, then it may be a driveshaft that is out of balance or a u-joint starting to go. But I would put my bets on leaf springs.
Easy way to tell, drive through a dip or a speed bump and see how the rear end reacts. If it dribbles like a basketball, springs.
kkcshipp
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- Elizabethtown, KY
Thanks, I'll take that advice and see. I crawled under last night for a visual but I'm really gonna have to get a wire brush and get the sandy silt off this thing so I can see better. Of note: Took it to a local body guy (not one of the largest in the area) to get a quote on the rockers and he said he wouldn't even work on it. Said he doesn't like working with rust, doesn't like to turn away business...The economy must be better than I thought. I'm actually thinking of going to the local community college and taking a welding class. Got to find that time though. Took off the inner door rubber seals last night and cleaned them up (nasty) then pushed them back on. Not too bad but the doors are still loose, especially the passenger door. Thought there was an adjustment on the lock but I couldn't get it to move. Will begin to read the -20.
CUCVLOVER
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On my o8 the passenger door rattles just slightly, it seems to be the hinges need new bushings and that has caused the pin to wear down. You might look at that.
kkcshipp
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- Elizabethtown, KY
WILCO! I also had someone talk me through a backlash check for the "shake/shimmy" on the rear end. I am also going to inspect all the leaf springs, ujoints, and u-bolts. It's like home ownership...there is always something to do. 
kkcshipp
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- Elizabethtown, KY
OK, 46 degrees out this morning and no startie. HELP, because it's going to get colder. Has anyone gotten parts from National Parts Depot? They have a much less expensive dash pad (about $100 difference) and they have it closer described as "Pad Assy, Dash, Black, Padded, Repro, Urethane, Comes W/ The Correct Mounting Hardware." I'm about to pop on it but want the feedback from the folks here.
CUCVLOVER
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Did it just wind over and over with no start or dead batts?
kkcshipp
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- Elizabethtown, KY
Batts are good, just turning over and over acting like it wanted to start but wouldn't "catch." Reminds me of when we first got them in 1985 while in Germany. Just too cold some mornings and I hope nobody used the ether on it.
cucvrus
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46 degrees is not cold enough to make it not start. You have some wrong. Of course you know that. And the new dash pad will not help it start any easier. I think you know that also. You ask a question and then dropped the question and went on about the dash pad. I was confused. It is a hard question to answer about the no start with out more details. Does it have fuel? Are the glow plugs operational? Are you sure they are operational? Is the fuel system dropping the fuel prime? Once it is started does it continue to run? Many things come into play. And the fact that someone would have used either on it in the past would not make it start hard today when cold. Un- less someone blew the engine and I hope you would know that. Did you ever hear this vehicle running in the past? Or did you just acquire the vehicle and am trying to get it running and it is 46 degrees out. I am not trying to be a wise guy I am trying to help you on the limited information that has been provided to me and all of us are asking the same questions i think???? More information is needed.
tim292stro
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Does it have the original box-type fuel filter on the firewall (prone to leak and losing prime)? Do you know if you have return fuel from the IP (shows that the lift pump is functioning)? Does the Injection Pump's (IP's) solenoid click when you plug unplug/plug-in the pink wire with the ignition key in "run"?
If you're getting good crank but no fire, then you either have no fuel or not enough heat from compression to burn the fuel (which is what the glow-plugs are for). Check each of your plugs for opens, and check for voltage at each of the glow-plug lugs - a test light does this but a multimeter tells you more about it (i.e. low voltage). Is the glow plug system completely intact on your truck? Is it still 24V with the ballast resistor pack to drop it to 12V? Have you even changed the glow plugs?
If everything is "happy", you can then check the compression of the cylinders - even if low, a long as they are within 10-15psi of each other they are probably okay (unless they are all equally REALY low![[thumbzup]](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/images/smilies/icon_smile_thumzup.gif "Thumbs Up [thumbzup]")
).
Yes, we all agree, ether starting fluid is bad for anything that has a functioning pre-heater - regardless of how bad it can be for piston rings.
If you're getting good crank but no fire, then you either have no fuel or not enough heat from compression to burn the fuel (which is what the glow-plugs are for). Check each of your plugs for opens, and check for voltage at each of the glow-plug lugs - a test light does this but a multimeter tells you more about it (i.e. low voltage). Is the glow plug system completely intact on your truck? Is it still 24V with the ballast resistor pack to drop it to 12V? Have you even changed the glow plugs?
If everything is "happy", you can then check the compression of the cylinders - even if low, a long as they are within 10-15psi of each other they are probably okay (unless they are all equally REALY low
).Yes, we all agree, ether starting fluid is bad for anything that has a functioning pre-heater - regardless of how bad it can be for piston rings.
BEASTMASTER
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not to start any thing here, but I went to school back in the 60's with a kid that his favorite word was nebulous. he was a cool dude.
kkcshipp
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- Elizabethtown, KY
Sorry to provide varying info I'll try to minimize in the future. Vehicle started fine when I got home yesterday afternoon (80 degrees) but I had a 1800 meeting that I did not return from until around 2030hrs. My son drove it to a muffler shop (was closed) but upon return said the left rear wheel locked up on him when he was trying to go forward. I'll have to pull that tire and see if it just froze up. Yes CUCVRUS when it starts it runs like a top, no issues from that time on. I purchased the vehicle from a police department and it sat for just over a year said the Police Chief; trying to get the service records from Ft Knox (if they kept them) using a connection of mine locally. The engine has not been damaged to my knowledge. TIM292STRO I'm too mechanically "inept" to do some of the checks you recommend at this point. I have no idea of compression, IP solenoid, etc. I just don't have those tools in my toolbox if you get my drift. I have yet to execute any of the mods here on the site because lately I have had very little time. When I do I believe glow plugs and the dog head relay are my first (after I figure out why/how the wheel is locking up going forward). Thanks for your patience.