New M-1083 owner. So, here we go!!

[Third From Texas]

A few folks have modified the battery box top to fit g31's. You can hack out the nubs that fit down to hold the 6TLs then just fiberglass a patch to fill the hole.

 

[RRaulston]

OK, so I just now removed the plywood and rough fit a piece of 1/8" 6061 AL and it fits with about 1/8-3/16 to spare. The hump in the battery box lid fits as well. Ill go to the steel place tomorrow and get a piece of 1/8 steel and cut to size and fit them. I have two plastic battery trays I will screw down on the steel to keep them from sliding. These projects wouldn't be such a pain if I didn't have to drive 25 milers for every nut and bolt I need....

 

[Ronmar]

I did say they were not strictly plug and play. They do fit you need to align them between the boxs in the lid… the loser profile plate helps alot. I have 1/8 aluminum in mine…

 

[RRaulston]

I did say they were not strictly plug and play. They do fit you need to align them between the boxs in the lid… the loser profile plate helps alot. I have 1/8 aluminum in mine…

You did for sure. I was just hoping the plywood would have worked. If you can believe this, a 4x4 piece of 3/4" plywood at Lowes was $49. Oh well, its just money...

 

[RRaulston]

Successful day. Got a piece of 6061 T6 .090 and fabbed the battery pan. Had to make a new cable and need to shorten a few others. Volts are rock solid and steady. The gauge on the dash sure is off and it flutters at idle. Gauge is steady while driving. I suppose I need to get a new gauge or check grounds. I have lots of space for a tender/equalizer or spare batteries. I have 2 good 6tls I may store in there for back-up.

 

[RRaulston]

Well, a few things today. Got a pair of wheel chocks and chained them together. I then put a cable and lock on the battery box to prevent pilfering. Then it was time to address an issue I've had since I got the truck. My air dryer continuously leaking a fair amount of air. Gently blow into your hand. Thats how much it leaks. I finally got the new purge valve in and replaced it. I used a bolt coupling I found at Ace Hardware, and it worked perfect. And.... the new one leaks just like the first one. (yes, I installed the o-rings) No idea what the issue is. The air governor on the compressor is new as well.. Any ideas??

 

[Ronmar]

Did you put an Oring in the groove on the new purge valve assembly? There is one on the old valve in your pic, but not on the new valve…

When the governor reaches set pressure, it unloads the compressor and sends system air pressure down to that little plastic line attached to the bottom of the dryer, That air opens the purge valve and vents the system.

When is it leaking from the purge valve port? When filling, or when unloaded?

If it is leaking when unloaded, your leak may be the check valve at the top of the dryer, leaking air back into the dryer and out the open purge valve…

 

[RRaulston]

Did you put an Oring in the groove on the new purge valve assembly? There is one on the old valve in your pic, but not on the new valve…

When the governor reaches set pressure, it unloads the compressor and sends system air pressure down to that little plastic line attached to the bottom of the governor. That air opens the purge valve and vents the system.

When is it leaking from the purge valve port? When filling, or when unloaded?

If it is leaking when unloaded, your leak may be the check valve at the top of the dryer, leaking air back into the dryer and out the open purge valve…

I did put in both o-rings and lubed them with the provided grease. It leaks after it purges. Steady leak. Unloaded, i think? It has to be getting pressure in the can enough to unseat the valve. Both valves are doing it.

 

[Ronmar]

If it is doing it unloaded, it is probably leaking back thru the dryer outlet check valve in the upper dryer housing…

there is a large nut top center of the housing with an elbow screwed into it. If you disconnect the outlet hose from the elbow, and unscrew that large nut from the upper cover, you will find a check-valve disc under a spring which probably need cleaning or has a bad seal…

 

[RRaulston]

If it is doing it unloaded, it is probably leaking back thru the dryer outlet check valve in the upper dryer housing…

there is a large nut top center of the housing with an elbow screwed into it. If you disconnect the outlet hose from the elbow, and unscrew that large nut from the upper cover, you will find a check-valve disc under a spring which probably need cleaning or has a bad seal…

ok I removed that large nut on top and there is a metal/rubber disc with a spring. I cleaned it all out and no change. No kidding, the spring maybe has 10 grams of pressure. Its super thin and spongy. I then removed the sealing disc and replaced it with the original one and no change. Just about over this. I mean honestly, there isn't much to this thing... Its happening after the valve pops off...

 

[RRaulston]

Does anyone know if this will fit my 1083? Air Dryer For M35A3 & M939 w/ ABS? Found a deal if it works.... Not sure what the ABS means as I done have ABS...Thanks for the help..

 

[Mullaney]

Does anyone know if this will fit my 1083? Air Dryer For M35A3 & M939 w/ ABS? Found a deal if it works.... Not sure what the ABS means as I done have ABS...Thanks for the help..

View attachment 894191
View attachment 894192View attachment 894193

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Might need to do a little research.
We have used Haldex-DA34100 successfully.

I did a quick search to compare to the 34100 to the 201160 and came up empty.
Maybe a call to Haldex would get you a better answer.

Or maybe @simp5782 knows the difference?

 

[simp5782]

It'll work but the unit is a junk unit. Not very reliable and has been on a shelf 20yrs probably

 

[GeneralDisorder]

The newer A1R trucks use the Haldex N50011H

The benefit is easier/faster servicing. The drawback is the cartridge price - it's about $100 a year.

Literally though - it takes like 15 minutes to service. Really convenient.

 

[simp5782]

The newer A1R trucks use the Haldex N50011H

The benefit is easier/faster servicing. The drawback is the cartridge price - it's about $100 a year.

Literally though - it takes like 15 minutes to service. Really convenient.

Yeah those purest cartridges are good for 3yrs on the change interval

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Yeah those purest cartridges are good for 3yrs on the change interval

Interesting. I hadn't heard that specifically. I was under the impression they should be changed annually unless in a pretty dry environment. Pretty wet here in Oregon so I did mine at one year..... kinda hyper sensitive after the original cartridge from 2008 destroyed my compressor.

 

[RRaulston]

Well, I went and done it... And it works perfectly! I will source the 24v heater later. The factory one had me stumped... Oh well on to the next project!

 

[RRaulston]

Question for the Transmission gurus. I drive my truck 10 miles a week to keep things lubricated and charged. When I park it, I turn my battery disconnect removing all power from the truck. Am I erasing the transmission memory? Should I keep it energized? Thanks!!

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I've never noticed any difference. I don't regularly use my battery disconnect - pretty much only if I'm doing electrical work, etc. I do drive my truck almost every day but it has also sat for weeks and had no issues. The transmission behavior is always the same. YMMV - my truck has the 3700SP (WTEC Gen IV), not the 3070SP (WTEC 2/3).

 

[RRaulston]

During my search to find an affordable transmission fluid that meets our specs, I found this:

Amazon.com: Triax Global Full Synthetic ATF, OEM Grade, Wide Specification Range for US, European, and Asian Vehicles, Compatible with TES 295, DEX VI, Mercon V and Many Others (5 Gallon Pail) : Automotive

I, however, don't see it on the approved list for Allison Transmissions on their site. But the label indicates its TES-295 and TES-389 compliant and USA made. So use it? or pass is the question...