New M-1083 owner. So, here we go!!

[RRaulston]

OK, well here we go... I installed the 150psi pressure sensor today on my MTV. I wasn't happy with my tire pressure gauge, so I bought a better one. HWY on the original sensor was 57 and XC was 35. So, I go to install the new 150PSI sensor. Nope, can't remove it. It's too close to the plastic housing covering the solenoids. So, I decide to remove it. The PO used a ton of silicone on it for some reason!? The two sensors are different in that they use a different size hex to tighten them. The new one was larger and I wasn't sure the plastic cover would go back on, but it did. I start the truck and it begins airing up...and up...and up... Below is a photo of the final air pressure after it settled. In order to get it there, I had to bleed out the wet tank to get it to build back up to 125. When the tires were at 80psi, the wet tank would sit at 85 and not seem to air up the tires. Maybe it was just painfully slow. But with the tires being aired up this hi, it would be nice to get the wet tank to keep recharging back up to 125 from 100. Letting a bit of air out and taking the tank to less than 80 caused it to immediately recharge itself. I don't think the HWY lite would go solid with 81 PSI in the tires and the wet tank at 81. Everything just sat there till I took it under 80 to cause a recharge. After several tank dumps, I got to pressure and solid HWY lite! At a good pressure no less! God, does that make sense??

 

[Third From Texas]

Yeah, the tank should still recharge to normal psi.

 

[Ronmar]

You have a couple things interacting here. CTIS cycles based on the pressure sw between ~117-89 PSI. The air fed to CTIS from the wet tank passes thru the air brake protection valve. This wont let any air out unless the tank pressure is above ~85 PSI(Saves at least 85PSI for the brake system to use).

It sounds like the governor cut-in pressure is below the point where CTIS stops filling the system and where the protection valve stops letting air out of the tank to CTIS…

The tank recharging is controlled by the governor. You said you just repladed it, what is the model/part number of the new governor? What is its cut-in pressure?

 

[RRaulston]

Yeah, the tank should still recharge to normal psi.

It does recharge to normal. But the activation of the recharge seems to stop when the tires are at 80psi. I think it's because the pressure switch on the side of the wet tank doesn't switch on until the pressure dips under 80. But it won't dip under 80 cause the tires are at 80.... I think....

 

[RRaulston]

[deleted

 

[RRaulston]

You have a couple things interacting here. CTIS cycles based on the pressure sw between ~117-89 PSI. The air fed to CTIS from the wet tank passes thru the air brake protection valve. This wont let any air out unless the tank pressure is above ~85 PSI(Saves at least 85PSI for the brake system to use).

It sounds like the governor cut-in pressure is below the point where CTIS stops filling the system and where the protection valve stops letting air out of the tank to CTIS…

The tank recharging is controlled by the governor. You said you just repladed it, what is the model/part number of the new governor? What is its cut-in pressure?

Sorry, This one.. I was thinking they mostly all the same...

 

[GeneralDisorder]

This kind of foolishness is why reprogramming the module is the way to go. You can tell it what to do instead of trying to fool it into doing sort-of what you want.

As evidenced by you being able to hit 80 psi in the tires it shouldn't be a concern even with the warning about the A0's..... if it's working correctly the system should be able to hit target. I suspect that problems anyone has encountered with A0's have been due to age and uncorrected deficiencies.

 

[Ronmar]

Well it says that governor should cut-in at 105PSI…

CTIS can easily consume all the air the compressor can put out. Another possibility is the the CTIS switch is not resetting properly at the low point of 89 PSI, so CTIS continues to fill and is consuming all the air. When you drop the wet tank pressure a little more the CTIS wet tank switch opens, and CTIS stops filling, allowing the compressor to recharge the tank… you might be able to get the same result by tapping the wet tank switch

Since the tank empties slower as the tire pressure increases, the rate of change as it approaches the switch reset point might not be enough to trip a old/worn/sticking switch…

i would Unplug the CTIS controller to take it out of the equation and start the truck. Once the tanks are charged, drain the wet tank slowly to see where the compressor governor actually cuts-in And starts refilling the tank. If it is around 105, I would say the CTIS wet tank switch is bad…

 

[RRaulston]

This kind of foolishness is why reprogramming the module is the way to go. You can tell it what to do instead of trying to fool it into doing sort-of what you want.

As evidenced by you being able to hit 80 psi in the tires it shouldn't be a concern even with the warning about the A0's..... if it's working correctly the system should be able to hit target. I suspect that problems anyone has encountered with A0's have been due to age and uncorrected deficiencies.

Based on what Suprman stated:
" Programming works best when its done on the truck the controller is being used on. Has to be an a1 truck. First gen trucks usually only inflate to 60 or so psi even with the controller set higher. Its hit or miss. "

I chose to try something different. If you believe it can be programmed, I will gladly send it to you and pay your fee!

 

[RRaulston]

Well it says that governor should cut-in at 105PSI…

CTIS can easily consume all the air the compressor can put out. Another possibility is the the CTIS switch is not resetting properly at the low point of 89 PSI, so CTIS continues to fill and is consuming all the air. When you drop the wet tank pressure a little more the CTIS wet tank switch opens, and CTIS stops filling, allowing the compressor to recharge the tank… you might be able to get the same result by tapping the wet tank switch

Since the tank empties slower as the tire pressure increases, the rate of change as it approaches the switch reset point might not be enough to trip a old/worn/sticking switch…

i would Unplug the CTIS controller to take it out of the equation and start the truck. Once the tanks are charged, drain the wet tank slowly to see where the compressor governor actually cuts-in And starts refilling the tank. If it is around 105, I would say the CTIS wet tank switch is bad…

Perhaps it was too slow and I was out of patience. I've been at it for two weeks solid. Back to work Monday and will give it a break for a week and reassess. I have fixed so many things with everyone's help! Cheers!!

 

[RRaulston]

Back at it. Removed the front driveline and got it ready to take to the shop. I then changed the trans filters. That had to have been one of the easier jobs! They were clean as a whistle! Tomorrow I will change out the draglink and tie rod end boots. Not much else to do until I get the driveline back.

 

[RRaulston]

Today was a win! I re-installed the front driveline and went for a test run. The difference that made has me in disbelief. I have no cab airbags (blown) and the few times I have driven it has set a baseline for road feel. Riding on the frame, one can feel a little more vibration and such. With the front and middle drivelines rebuilt, it's a night and day difference. It's that smooth. I will get the rear driveshaft in next month as I am going to interrupt the last driveline with fixing the cab air springs. We are getting there!! On a side note, I won another Goodyear tire GP. Kinda pisses me off you can't inspect this stuff before bidding.

 

[Mavcaster]

What’s a ballpark price for driveline balancing? I’m guessing from what I have read on here that I should get this done even though all my drivelines are indexed correctly. Just trying to get an idea of what to expect when I start calling around.

 

[RRaulston]

What’s a ballpark price for driveline balancing? I’m guessing from what I have read on here that I should get this done even though all my drivelines are indexed correctly. Just trying to get an idea of what to expect when I start calling around.

Both of mine needed minor straightening, remove cardboard (center) and balance with my supplied u-joints was 275 each. My guy indicated he needed the new U-joints in order to balance them. They were $100 each from him. 4 Meritor joints, NOS with no hardware, for $100 on the big E...

 

[TomTime]

We are getting there!! On a side note, I won another Goodyear tire GP. Kinda pisses me off you can't inspect this stuff before bidding.

That's the way they want it. Their bad photography, and only what they want to show you!!!

 

[RRaulston]

It was a good day yesterday, or at least I think it was. I went to a military show/swap meet and found some stuff! Like 24v relays from a name brand for $3 each. Also got an air hose with a Wilton? air chuck that plugs into a gladhand for $60. But the big one I scored (at least I think it's a score) was a full tow bar kit for $475. If it doesn't work on my truck, I hope there is another adapter I can get. By the way, this pic is deceiving. This thing is a monster. Its a struggle to lift one piece of chain! The assembled bar is probably a 2-man lift..

 

[coachgeo]

It was a good day yesterday, or at least I think it was. I went to a military show/swap meet and found some stuff! Like 24v relays from a name brand for $3 each. Also got an air hose with a Wilton? air chuck that plugs into a gladhand for $60. But the big one I scored (at least I think it's a score) was a full tow bar kit for $475. If it doesn't work on my truck, I hope there is another adapter I can get. By the way, this pic is deceiving. This thing is a monster. Its a struggle to lift one piece of chain! The assembled bar is probably a 2-man lift..
View attachment 889732

look up the NSN number on the tag. Might be the light duty tow bar and not adequate for our size rigs. If it is the IbisTek... make sure it is not the one that was fazed out due to breakages. Dont think it is though

Towing LMTV via Ibis bar

Going to pick up another M1078 tomorrow. I went the other day to make sure the driveshafts are off and to check overall condition. Read through -10 TM. Is there any other hints I should look out for? is it OK to cross chain between the two truck's shackles, provided they are long enough?? Maybe...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[coachgeo]

look up the NSN number on the tag. Might be the light duty tow bar and not adequate for our size rigs. If it is the IbisTek... make sure it is not the one that was fazed out due to breakages. Dont think it is though

Towing LMTV via Ibis bar

Going to pick up another M1078 tomorrow. I went the other day to make sure the driveshafts are off and to check overall condition. Read through -10 TM. Is there any other hints I should look out for? is it OK to cross chain between the two truck's shackles, provided they are long enough?? Maybe...

www.steelsoldiers.com

best guide for things military tow bars we see on the market to civilians. It seems to have changed slightly in active duty cause they have other bars now?

http://vertexintl.com/media/2018/09/02-US-Army-Tow-Bar-Smart-Book.pdf

 

[RRaulston]

look up the NSN number on the tag. Might be the light duty tow bar and not adequate for our size rigs. If it is the IbisTek... make sure it is not the one that was fazed out due to breakages. Dont think it is though

Towing LMTV via Ibis bar

Going to pick up another M1078 tomorrow. I went the other day to make sure the driveshafts are off and to check overall condition. Read through -10 TM. Is there any other hints I should look out for? is it OK to cross chain between the two truck's shackles, provided they are long enough?? Maybe...

www.steelsoldiers.com

The guy said it was the tow bar kit for the 7-ton MTVR? Anyways here is the placard and the adapters seem to fit and they are stamped 5 ton...

 

[RRaulston]

best guide for things military tow bars we see on the market to civilians. It seems to have changed slightly in active duty cause they have other bars now?

http://vertexintl.com/media/2018/09/02-US-Army-Tow-Bar-Smart-Book.pdf

Great guide! Mine was in there. NSN matches the kit number!