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The "fuse link" at the alternator studs was specified to be removed from the platform over 20 years ago. See page 3 of PS Magazine 569 from April of 2000:
The end-bell of the Niehoff alternators is potted. You might be able to TIG weld a bolt or a tapered bit of all-thread to it in combination with some clever heat sinking and allowing to cool between short intervals of welding. It's not likely to ever have the strength it should have for this application - I would start looking into a more powerful replacement. Have more than 100A is very useful and I don't think I would put any significant effort into a 100A alternator.
All good suggestions. What came to my mind was Brazing might be the key here but ya'll know more than I. This is what hit me:
ahhh ok.. yeah I recall that. Thought they were all suppose to have been removed by miliary already... guess not.
uh.... probably not.... Going to address it next week when I'm off....
It broke to the point where there is about 1/8 thread showing enough for 1 turn finger tight...
I read this like 10 times. I think you are on to something. The remaining post is halfway through the nut. I think you could tig the center of the hole/stud then tig another nut on that nut the thread in a new post. I know a guy.....
with a threaded coupler you would not need a post... you would bolt into the coupler to hold your cable.I read this like 10 times. I think you are on to something. The remaining post is halfway through the nut. I think you could tig the center of the hole/stud then tig another nut on that nut the thread in a new post. I know a guy.....
belmetric.com
I'm not sure what the better battery brands are but these are in stock and nearby. They say "wet" so i'm assuming lead acid!? thoughts??Yea, if I read that date code correctly, they were a year old in 2010… They are also AGM’s AGM batteries want 45% of the battery AH rating in amps from the alternator during the major portion of the charge cycle. Plain lead acids want only 25%. So with the 4 battery 240AH AGM bank that was 108A just for the batteries… 2 batteries at 120AH is a much more manageable, but still pretty high 54A out of the alternator. The issue really is the 12v lighting loads. It is around 26A with all the lights on, so if you let the batteries get behind, dont run the lights till they are topped off
and when these fail put in a pair of group 31s. 100AH plain lead acid, commonly available/less expensive, and will only want 25A out of the alt. They will charge much faster if discharged and put way less stress on the alt…
yep... WET= Lead Acid. It might be sealed Lead acid (no caps) but not AGM
I like Deccas and interstates. The Hawkers are good batteries. If yours loadtest ok I would stick with the best pair of them untill they drop.
From everything I've read on SS about vibration issues on these trucks, I would not take a chance on driving it with out having them checked and balance. You could drive the truck hundreds or thousands of mile and be okay or you could drive 10 miles down the road and something breaks. It's a tossup.
Short answer: no
If You mean studs with nuts as opposed to Allen head machine screws, then yes you have the new model clutch, hub and fan disc.
stick your phone in there and take a picture?
i will. was going to do the belts today but got sidetracked
