New M-1083 owner. So, here we go!!

[coachgeo]

So how did I prime my fuel filters after changing them and discovering my primer bulb doesn't work??

(665) FMTV LMTV MTV fuel prime issue and sending unit replacement. - YouTube

appreciate the info. Neat trick.

IMHO add a 12v inline; petrol type is fine, aux fuel pump as close to the tank as you can and put it on a switch. This can be used to prime and can be used to get you by if you get an air leak on a trip. In that case you just leave it on.

Your hand primer not working is a sign it leaks air. You will need to replace it cause it will leak air into your fuel when driving and sitting.

 

[Ronmar]

Your hand primer not working is a sign it leaks air. You will need to replace it cause it will leak air into your fuel when driving and sitting.

Not necessarilly. The issue is probably the flapper type bypass valve up above where the filter screws in is not sealing. That will keep the primer from lifting fuel, and without a strainer in the tank it is exposed to anything the pickup tube sucks up… found a bug leg or camel hair was keeping mine from sealing when I got the truck. or it could be an air leak on the line from the tank. It is easy enough to test…

 

[RRaulston]

Belts done. Not too bad of a job. I was quite happy to discover I had the new fan clutch on my 97 MTV. I wonder who did that?! Tomorrow will be spent changing a tire and sorting out some hydraulic leaks.

 

[RRaulston]

Well yesterday I changed a tire and fixed the kneeling control valve. The valve had a little bit of a learning curve, which I live for. I put the video in another thread. The tire was a different story. My first one. These things are heavy, but more important is they are unwieldy!! 36" breaker bar wouldn't cut it. I had to use my 3/4" gun and that still took a minute. No idea what I torqued them too, but I thumped 'em good. Will work on getting a torque wrench soon. Its parked anyways for now as I am sorting the driveshafts. There is noticeable movement when I push on them from below, so they are on top of the list.

 

[RRaulston]

One more thing. The previous owner indicated he never changed the oil. Based on the recorded mileage of the guy he bought it from to when I bought it, it had only been driven less than 2500 miles from what I can tell. I was hesitant at first, but all signs pointed to it was OK. Just to verify, I took an oil sample. Quite pleased with the results...

 

[RRaulston]

Is this an alternative for a replacement of my 100AMP unit?? Thanks


C.E. Niehoff N1224-1 Alternator

 

[Third From Texas]

Is this an alternative for a replacement of my 100AMP unit?? Thanks


C.E. Niehoff N1224-1 Alternator

Pretty sure the 100a from the A0 trucks is N1506-1

N1224-1 is the 260amp from the A1R trucks

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Is this an alternative for a replacement of my 100AMP unit?? Thanks


C.E. Niehoff N1224-1 Alternator

That's the 260 unit. It's an "alternative" in the sense that is the alt they upgraded to with the A1R and LTAS trucks, but it's not a simple bolt-on. I don't believe it fits the 100a bracketry, and I know for SURE they changed the shock tower mount dramatically to accommodate the alternator but they also did the coil-over front shocks at the same time which use larger hardware on both ends so the amount of stuff that has to change mechanically for it to fit is actually pretty astounding. Not to mention all the wiring was upgraded in size to handle the additional 160a output capacity. I believe the LBCD is the same at least.

There's enough changes required to "upgrade" that I haven't seen it actually done. Even the military still put's 100a alts on the trucks that still use them if a replacement is needed.

 

[Ronmar]

Yea the installed wiring between batt and alt is only good for about 200A.

 

[mrjeffa]

Thanks for the info. Alternator is still working just though will I was doing all the changes see if there was a better option. Looks like not a good idea. I am just going to put new batteries in. Thanks Ronmar for the response. So is putting to d8 batteries in is ok, our is there a better option now?

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[Ronmar]

At ~225AH, the 8Ds are only a slightly smaller bank than the 240AH that the four 6T batts create. still way too much for the dual volt alt to support properly.

Around 100AH is a much better match for the alternator, So a pair of the 6Ts(120AH, NOT AGM), a pair of 31’s at 100AH, a pair of group 27’s at just under 100AH, or 4 group 24’s at around 120AH. A pair of group 24s or 27’s in AGM might work well also…

Cat specced a pair if group 31s…

 

[Ronmar]

I just broke down the reasoning for the battery bank sizing in this discussion post #11

New Ride

So my latest financial black hole arrived the other day, and there’s some things I’d address immediately. Cab latch is effectively seized up. Think I’d just as soon replace rather than rebuild. I want to replace all the rubber boots, turbo, radiator, what have you. Door seals are roached...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[RRaulston]

I just broke down the reasoning for the battery bank sizing in this discussion post #11

New Ride

So my latest financial black hole arrived the other day, and there’s some things I’d address immediately. Cab latch is effectively seized up. Think I’d just as soon replace rather than rebuild. I want to replace all the rubber boots, turbo, radiator, what have you. Door seals are roached...

www.steelsoldiers.com

after everything ive learned from you, I will be getting 2 Group 31s after I do my 3 drivelines.

 

[Ronmar]

after everything ive learned from you, I will be getting 2 Group 31s after I do my 3 drivelines.

Just so you are aware, the 31s are not exactly plug and play, fitting them into the box without removing the base plate is a little tricky, but a pair will fit if placed carefully.

 

[RRaulston]

As I was inspecting wires and getting ready to replace a bunch of cracked plastic wire protective sleave, I noticed this plug un-plugged. Any idea what it is?? Thanks!

 

[Third From Texas]

As I was inspecting wires and getting ready to replace a bunch of cracked plastic wire protective sleave, I noticed this plug un-plugged. Any idea what it is?? Thanks!

Someone may know, I'm sure.

Might peel back the loom and see if you can make out the aluminum tags. If we know the wire numbers, it should be simple to trace.

 

[Ronmar]

It is the pigtail connector J52 for the inter-vehicular connector seen in your pic between the left headlight and the left towing shackle…

 

[RRaulston]

It is the pigtail connector J52 for the inter-vehicular connector seen in your pic between the left headlight and the left towing shackle…

Dang! I was hoping when I plugged it back together my CTIS would magically start working!!!

 

[RRaulston]

Well, I bought a part. Thought it was for my truck then I do a deep dive and it's for an MRAP? whatever that is... Might can use the brake pads.... Dunno, sure looks close... Hmmm.. 50 bucks is no huge loss...

 

[GeneralDisorder]

MRAP = "Mine Resistant Ambush Protected" and refers to a classification of vehicles for which there are three general categories (I, II, and III) based on weight, size, and number of axles and currently there are over 50 variants.

So it fits *something* in the MRAP world presumably with a Meritor axles or independent suspension - what that is an if it's similar to the FMTV 7.5 ton Meritor solid axle brake equipment is anyone's guess.