New M35A3 Questions

[Monkeyboyarmy]

That air looks perfectly normal to me.The steering is pulling air off of the secondary side and is being re-filled by the primary side.There is a sudden drop in pressure because you are using a large volume of air to re-fill the air assist cylinder that if I recall correctly is 5" in diameter.As you continue to turn the wheel,it is just adding a little more air to fill the area in the cylinder that the piston is creating as it moves.The real test on the steering is like milbri09 explained.With the truck off and pressure built up,turn the wheel all of the way one way.If you get just the initial drop in pressure and steady after that,then the steering is leak free.If you turn the wheel all the way and the air pressure slowly drops,then you have a leak.(Most of them leak.The cylinder bores corrode and pit up).Probably still OK.Just wont have as much power assist.

 

[Skycop]

Rgr, I spoke with Milbri09 on the phone today and he seconded your opinion. I think my air system is good to go. I have just never experienced the air assist before and watching my precious air pressure jump around like that kinda freaked me out.

I am going to attempt to order a relay for my starter tomorrow. I saw on the relay where it reads "24 Volt DC" and the words "Presolite" "*SE-4101AT" (* I think is a "W")

Upon researching that part number I have not been able to find it anywhere. I am going to attempt to call Prestolite tomorrow, but is the relay the same relay as found in the -A2 series trucks? In the various supply websites for the M35 trucks I have not seen a Starter Relay that looks the same. Also, the starter is coming off, just when we get time for it! I wanted to have the relay ready for swap out when the starter is changed out.

 

[runk]

a3 style air asist intalled on my a2

I've got the a3 style air assist kit installed on my a2, and the air consumption is similar. I've got to do 6-10 full lock back and forth turns to get it tucked into it's parking spot behind the fence, and will run out of air at some point in the process (better then running out of arm like I used to, the air recovers a lot quicker ). The system has a pressure closing valve between the steering and the rest of the air system (brakes !) so the steering assist gets shut off if the system pressure gets below about 60 PSI (which also works if the crappy and unnecessary steering air regulator fails ! I tested it ! While driving in heavy traffic, no less !!!!). The a3 gauge must be plumbed into the system close to the air assist, since the initial gauge jump appears to be showing the local pressure in a line close to the steering that can't quite keep up with the flow requirement, not the system pressure. My a2 doesn't have the initial sudden drop, but probably loses 5PSI or so in each turn.

One thing that might help with the recovery time - check the air inlet on the compressor system for a filter (right on the side of the a2 compressor, no idea where it is on the a3), cleaning mine made a big difference, and cut down on the oil in the air tanks (sucked past the piston seals).

 

[DonFDNY]

Sort of on topic but maybe someone can direct me to a better thread.
I've had a M37 and currently have a M151A2. I am toying with the idea of also getting a duce. I like the M35A3 but the auto trans makes me nervous. Would you recommend an A2 or A3. The A2 has a manual transmission and I'm guessing less problems to maintain. So, my question is what yould you guys recommend, a M35A2 or a M35A3 and why?
Thanks,
Don

 

[Skycop]

I am going to end up doing a write up on the -A3 vs -A2 I think and a comparison for folks (along with an evolving parts list change for the -A3). First off, All American All the Way sir... hoo-rah.

Opinions are like a** holes, everyone has one. Personally, our agency went to the -A3 because it has the automatic tranny, and with the air assist steering drives somewhat close to a car. Keep in mind that cops are like soldiers and we want to operate under the K.I.S.S. principle

The -A2 is a solid truck. Its a booger to drive (until you get the hang of it), but overall, alot cheaper to own, maintain, and operate. With that being said, there are ALOT of -A3s coming on the market from GL etc and some of them I found through DRMO had mileage in the HUNDREDS. That is both a blessing and a curse as these trucks need to be run and used to keep them up to snuff.

Most of the -A2s you will find (unless owned by members on SS) will be tired. If they have been restored and/or modified the -A2s will have alot of the benefits of the -A3 (to include super single tires and air assist steering), with alot less cost. The biggest asset to the -A3 that I have found (other than the CTIS and the jury is out on that) is the PTO driven hydraulic winch in lieu of the direct drive. Makes a WORLD of difference on ease of use, reliable pulls, and overall a huge step up from the -A2.

Overall, parts are easier to come by with the -A2, they look better (although from the front, the -A3 looks tougher in my opinion), and are simpler. For our needs, however, the -A3 was a better fit. Depends on what you want to do.

Let me know if you have any specific questions. I am by no means an expert on either vehicle, but have experienced both!

 

[DonFDNY]

So we have one vote for the A3. I drove a friends 5 Ton M923 and it drove like a baby carriage, easy to steer brakes were very good but the rig was enormous! If you were to drive into a Dunkin' Donuts for some coffee you would crush 5 cars just pulling in!
I don't even think my driveway could handle it so that is why I am thinking a smaller truck may work for me.

 

[Skycop]

One other tid-bit...well make it 2

1. Try posting this forum as your own post with a poll. I always enjoy the results of the poll. Keep in mind, however, that everyone will have their own opinion. My reasoning for posting a new poll is that on older threads like this one, I have found that alot of people read initially, lose interest if not directly involved in the conversation, and then move on. You might have better luck with the new thread. Shoot a link on here though if you do.

2. The automatic tranny should not scare you. From speaking with various members here though, it will need some looking at around 10K miles though. It is an Allison tranny, so parts are available, albeit a bit expensive.

Again, it all depends on what you want to do, and how much your operating budget/maint. fund is going to be The defroster/heater and electric wipers are worth their weight in gold, however.

 

[DonFDNY]

I took your advice and figured out how to set up a pole, see:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/general-polls/48649-buying-m35a2-m35a3.html

 

[Skycop]

Told you there would be better response! Hope it works out for you. By the way, being in NY, make sure you get one with a heater!

 

[Mitymac]

Skycop
Did you get your starter fixed? Before you pull it off disconect bats. Remove plate on selinoid.
Be carefull spring will push your copper plate out. Its probably fried. Take a file across it to smoothen it and or flip it over and reinstall. Did this many times on tractors and trucks!
Mitymac

 

[Skycop]

Thanks! We have/had plans to pull the starter tomorrow depending on the wx cooperating or not.

 

[Skycop]

FYI, we still haven't pulled the starter. We wanted to swap the relay first, which did us absoltely no good . SHould have taken advice and gone straight to the starter. I will check out the spring first as mentioned previously.

 

[Skycop]

Finally got a chance to get some pictures for you.The round switch on the drivers side with the 2 wires is the neutral safety switch.Just disconnect the wires and jumper the two together with a test lead or piece of wire.MAKE SURE the transmission is in neutral.

Also, we tried bypassing the neutral switch = no joy.

 

[militarysteel]

lots of good info on this thread, will be useful when we get those 2 a3's in

 

[Skycop]

Yea, we are learning a lot about the -A3 as we go. Please feel free to give me a call or shoot me an e-mail if needed. I am not an expert by any means, but will be glad to help!

 

[militarysteel]

thanks! wish others were nice like you on this site,

 

[Skycop]

I have yet to meet anyone that wasn't helpful! Well maybe one time...lol. Thats the beauty of a site like this....we are all here because we want to be.

 

[Skycop]

Well I have replaced the starter relay, starter (and solenoid) with the same results. CRAP!

When we got our -A3 this problem was intermittent as I initially described way back at the beginning of this thread. However, it has become to the point that it will not start at all. I am frustrated. I am going to try following the TM instructions, but I am pretty confused reading it (section/page 0012 00-3 to be exact).

My only oddity that I have experienced (I have tried "jumpering" the leads 74A and 74B with the same results) is that when the p-brake is set, the red light on the dash illuminates like it should. When I disengage the p-brake the light goes out (like it should). HOWEVER, if/when I try and start the truck with the P-brake disengaged, the red light illuminates for the duration I have the starter switch engaged (even though I don't head any clicking noises or anything). I still get no response from the starter switch. Suggestions would be helpful!

 

[DonFDNY]

Well I have replaced the starter relay, starter (and solenoid) with the same results. CRAP!

When we got our -A3 this problem was intermittent as I initially described way back at the beginning of this thread. However, it has become to the point that it will not start at all. I am frustrated. I am going to try following the TM instructions, but I am pretty confused reading it (section/page 0012 00-3 to be exact).

My only oddity that I have experienced (I have tried "jumpering" the leads 74A and 74B with the same results) is that when the p-brake is set, the red light on the dash illuminates like it should. When I disengage the p-brake the light goes out (like it should). HOWEVER, if/when I try and start the truck with the P-brake disengaged, the red light illuminates for the duration I have the starter switch engaged (even though I don't head any clicking noises or anything). I still get no response from the starter switch. Suggestions would be helpful!

Have you looked at the neutral safety switch to the transmission?

 

[doghead]

He did(Skycop has another thread going that covers this same issue), and this is why cross posting is not allowed on SS. It is counterproductive and wastes peoples time(repeating questions and answers).