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New Wheel Nuts...where to get them?

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Gunny65

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;) Okay, I am taking the wheel apart to put on new tires. I had to get a new/bigger torque wrench to get the nuts to come loose. Now I have the nuts loose but the rust from sitting and never being cleaned is holding them very tight (along with the distorted lock-nut characteristics). I am afraid if I take them all the way off when they are this tight the threads will be shot either on the nut or the stud. Don't screw up the stud. They are expensive and a pain to replace.

Where is a good source for new wheel nuts?

Technically you are not suppose to reuse the lock-nuts. I have heard people use them up to 3 times but the TM and McMaster-Carr indicate these are one time use lock-nuts. I will re-use two wheels worth of lock-nuts and see if there any problems. If there are, I will report back.

I think, but am not sure, that the bolts are 5/8"? (The wheel nuts on the M939 series truck, according to the TM, are 3/4" 16TPI Fine) The 5/8" are possible I guess but that may be for the Deuce and a half and/or older wheels, not sure which applies. My M939A2 uses the 3/4" nominal 16 TPI fine distorted lock nuts, flange style. I provided a link below for both sizes.

Thanks.

EDIT: The original purchase for the 5/8" nuts and die were too small. I went in a read the TMs that apply to the M939 and posted links to the TM sizes that apply. "locknut and threading die, 3/4" 16TPI fine." I was originally incorrect in my visual assessment of the stud size. That is what I get for not actually measuring. Nobodies fault but mine.

Amazon: Union Butterfield 2025(UNF) Carbon Steel Hexagon Threading Die, Uncoated (Bright) Finish, 5/8"-18 Thread Size
From McMaster-Carr: 5/8"-18

10each
90949A112
 $4.59 - the part number is in yellow.

If you have the 3/4" 16TPI Wheel Nuts (M939 series) Distorted "Lock Nut": McMaster-Carr: http://www.mcmaster.com/#90949a119/=109qyyo
This is the rethreading die 3/4" 16TPI: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-B46027-4-16-Black-Oxide/dp/B000WACOWK/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
 
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acme66

acme66

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I have one of these:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYn42tl3yMw

Works great. I also ordered new nuts for those wheel bolts but I would have to check the box to get the number. It was difficult to find them in a non-locking version but cheap once I did.

Ken

Edit: Sorry I forgot that I posted the nuts and what to look for in the video itself. Also the sizes are listed in the video description. I absolutely recommend getting a thread chaser for these wheels just because of how often the studs are painted or mangled. When you put them back use some anti-seize.
 
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73m819

73m819

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When I saw the title, I figured that you could get Bruce Jenners, He, she, ? does not need them any more.
 
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G

Gunny65

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Bonners Ferry, idaho
THAT is what I was looking for Acme66. Ive watched a few of your videos on Youtube but didn't see this one. There is one on Amazon for $26 bucks. It is now on the way. Hopefully this will save my nuts...

I have the larger flange wheel nuts on the tire already. They are pretty stout but who knows if taking them off without chasing the threads would wreck them or not. I'd rather play it safe. I have a few wheel nuts coming as well, just in case. I like spares anyway. Excellent, thanks.
 
juanprado

juanprado

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I believe the name for locking nuts is prevailing torque, ie the nut is distorted to lock tight instead of a nylon insert that is not rated high enough.

That is also the reason they are so tight being removed. They are not regular flange nuts but lock nuts!
 
Scar59

Scar59

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juanprado said:
I believe the name for locking nuts is prevailing torque, ie the nut is distorted to lock tight instead of a nylon insert that is not rated high enough.

That is also the reason they are so tight being removed. They are not regular flange nuts but lock nuts!
Click to expand...
Exactly, distorted (lock) nuts will fight you all the way off. Spray the exposed threads w/ PB Blaster, wait a day, then use a wire wheel or brush to clean up the stud/threads. Be prepared to work those nuts all the way off. Don't cut them off like Bruce/Caitlin did.
 
G

Gunny65

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Bonners Ferry, idaho
Well, crap. I jumped the gun. However, thanks for clarifying. Off to McMaster-Carr I go. Guess I will now have a few regular flange nuts for some other project. I always got projects.

Bruce Jenner was our track and field hero in high school. Him, Prefontaine, Coe and Lewis. I am pretty sure all them are still men except Brucie. I'll start calling him a her when he cuts his man parts off and gets a Va-JJ. I don't know, even then, maybe not.
 
74M35A2

74M35A2

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Don't hang any from your trailer hitch. My wife will pull up snickering and say "Had to buy some huh?". She did it once to a guy in a lifted F-350 at a light, and I sprayed my pop all over the windshield.
 
acme66

acme66

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Gunny65 said:
THAT is what I was looking for Acme66. Ive watched a few of your videos on Youtube but didn't see this one. There is one on Amazon for $26 bucks. It is now on the way. Hopefully this will save my nuts...

I have the larger flange wheel nuts on the tire already. They are pretty stout but who knows if taking them off without chasing the threads would wreck them or not. I'd rather play it safe. I have a few wheel nuts coming as well, just in case. I like spares anyway. Excellent, thanks.
Click to expand...

They are right about the lock nuts not being what you wanted. I tried those and if you push a tap through them to disable the lock portion they are not to bad but the flange on them, the ones I ordered anyway, was much smaller than the nuts I was replacing. It got the truck home but I swapped them all out for the flange nuts as soon as they arrived. That is what took us some time to source, finding the proper name for them. Check for "flange nuts".

The chaser is SO very much more than wire brushing no matter how diligent. It will take some time but your studs will be like new when you are done. Wrecking nuts is one thing but wrecking the studs is an afternoon of hassle no one needs. There are two sizes of studs I have run into out there, most of them seem to be the size I show in the video. Here is hoping it works awesome for you,

Ken
 
Daybreak

Daybreak

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Howdy,
You have the basic spec of the nuts
Uniquely shaped threads provide a vibration resistant friction fit, so the nut stays put. These all metal locknuts withstand higher temperatures than nylon insert locknuts. Top thread section is deformed to create two or three locking zones; they start easily by hand, then must be wrenched into final position. IFI 100/107 Grade G. ANSI B1.1 UNC and UNF Class 2B.
Steel, Phosphate and Oil Finish, Distorted Thread Locking
 
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